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Photo 1 of 1 from 20" LED Light Bar Install

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03-08-2013, 02:38 AM
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20" LED Light Bar Install
Added by
SeanBurgandy

Photo Comments

  1. SeanBurgandy
    This project went awry from the word "go!" I had to custom fabricate the bolt-holes on the mounting brackets because the factory brackets were too tall. I also had to remove the front grille and plastic top-plate to get access to the 2"x24" gap on the bumper. It's basically impossible to drill a hole from outside of the bumper to install the brackets. Luckily, if you go underneath the truck, you can see that there are pre-existing 10mm bolts that you can remove and use to secure the brackets. I pounded off the washers with a deep welled socket and mallet because it won't fit inside the pedestal of the bracket with the washer on. I also had to hone out the bolt hole on the bracket because the bolts I used were too short, and I couldn't buy new bolts as it was 2AM and there weren't any open hardware stores. Also, once you remove the grille, the rubber air-dam has plastic rivets that will need to be removed to access the area from under the bumper. Once you actually weasel your hands in to allow you to install the brackets, you'll have to fight the limited space to get the bolts tightened. Do each bracket, one at a time and install the light after the first bracket is installed. Once you get the light installed and tightened down, take a deep breath because the worst is over! Now, all you have to do is run the wiring around the engine bay, through the firewall and to your pre-determined area. I had to make a few cuts to my firewall, as the NNBS have a completely sealed firewall and it's a bitch to get the wires through. After I had my wires laid out and ready, I decided to connect the lights to the battery. As you can see from the picture, the NNBS chevy's also have a new battery clamp set-up and i'm not too fond of it. As I got the + side connected, I began threading the bolt, and tightening down a bit when it became resilient. So, what did I do? I grabbed a socket wrench and tried to force it...BAD IDEA! If you find yourself in this situation, just back it off the bolt and try again. Apparently, these are also a hot commodity in the parts department. I had to drive about 40 miles just to get the last one in stock. Once I had it in hand, I finished the install; wires were zip-tied along the engine bay, switch was ran through my steering column and placed on the left side of my steering wheel, under the tach. I re-attached the rubber air-dam; connected the clips/grille and installed the plastic top-plate. Now, as you can see from the pictures, It works better than I could have imagined! The pictures don't do it justice...Sorry, it was taken from my iphone 5. Feedback???
  2. aloxdaddy99
    Where did you mount the switch?pics?
  3. SeanBurgandy
    I mounted the switch on the left side of my column, right under the cluster. I ran the wire through the firewall and up through the column housing. I'll have to take pictures and post them for ya
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