Brand new engine, start first time, oil pressure pegs out. [Archive] - Chevy Truck Forum

Big6ft6

11-04-2008, 06:12 PM

dwill3015

11-04-2008, 07:28 PM

60PSI seems normal as the 350TBI new GM crate motor in my Blazer runs at 60PSI

APX

11-04-2008, 09:25 PM

It could be the Gauge going, too. Mine did that before it went out.

GM has an internal Service Bulletin that if a customer comes in and complains about the gauge cluster being out, a new one is supplied (parts + labor free). I do not believe that there's a mileage cap either.

JMoney02

11-05-2008, 12:34 AM

I have a freshly rebuilt TBI 350.

I'm doing the delicate dance of the getting it started and breaking in the cam etc. I went to start cam break in today and noticed that when I start the engine, the pressure gauge instanly pegs out past 60psi. What RPM's are you running for bereakin'?

I completely freaked out and shut the engine down (another check mark against proper cam break in). I have checked and oil is pumping up out of the pushrods into the lifter valley.
This a good thing, as it should be pushing up, into the vallies,journals and pump is working correctly.

Now I don't know what to do. What should the pressure be at? What should be my biggest concern?
Breakin' and pressure for this motor is 60psi, running at 2000 rpm, is this what the cam co suggested for breakin' RPM?
I am using Royal Pruple Break in oil with high zinc etc.
This is one of the better oil's to breakin' with, always use breakin oils and pre-lube all cams, rods, bearings, did you do a pre-lube with a drill and shaft from the oil pump before running?
What really worries me is that I've heard a couple of short squeals a couple of time when starting and shutting of the engine. It is really freaking me out.
What are the SQUEALS? Metal to Metal? When you start breakin, you really should not stop, I know times when it sounds as though something isn't right, but none the less.
At this point you can drain the prelube oil and check for contaminents and readd new and start again if not severe.
I feel like I'm stuck becuase I'm not even supposed to be turning the engine over until everytyhing is set to break in the cam...so it limits my diagnostic ability.
Need more info on Cam manufacture and type, lifters, push rods etc....

What should I be checking...is 60psi bad...is this normal becuase it is a "tight" engine and newly rebuilt.
No, high oil pressure is good, no or low is bad.... Also, engine will run hotter for a few miles until all is also broke in, make sure if in truck, its has enough air around it as this cause additional heat.
Sorry this is a rambling post, but I'm very very worried.
No worries mate, money is a bad thing to waste and any help can be some relief...... Let us know....

Big6ft6

11-05-2008, 08:22 AM

60PSI seems normal as the 350TBI new GM crate motor in my Blazer runs at 60PSI

Thanks Dwill

I'm not sure mine oil pressure is 60psi...that is simply where my gauge ends, the needle pegs the end of the gauge, so it could be 160psi as far as I know. I'm getting the feeling that high oil pressure is never really a bad thing from everyone's responses.

Is that a general consensus?

Big6ft6

11-05-2008, 08:27 AM

JMoney, thanks for your reassurance. I have the cam sheet from the engine builder, it appears it may have been some cheap no-name cam. I wasn't the person who had the engine rebuilt, I bought it from the guy who had it rebuilt, so I don't know for sure about the cam brand.

It is supposedly the cam that would provide the most torque in a TBI motor without having to adjust the computer at all, so it definitly is not a radical cam.

It is a flat tappet hydraulic lifter cam, I know that much. Everyone seems to say for flat tappet cams you have to run the engine unloaded at 1800rpm for 20 minutes immediately upon start up to break in cam. If you let it idle at all, you've screwed up I've been told.

But I've had to crank this motor so much (becuase of a different problem) I'm afraid I already ruined
the pre-lube on the cam so I can pretty much kiss proper cam break-in "good bye". Now I just don't want to have the engine ruined as well.

DirtDog

11-05-2008, 03:34 PM

you should be ok. I rebuilt a 350 a few years back and it held about 70psi oil pressure. Just fire it up and go through the break in procedure. It's normal to hear some small noises at first, but they will go away after it runs for about 30-45 mins. My 2007 Silverado has a 4.3L V6 and it holds steady at about 55psi oil pressure and it hits almost 70 when first started up. here is a picture of my gauges after the truck has been running about 5 minutes.

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii61/jc_dirtdog/IMG_0623.jpg

Hope this helps
Jack.

Big6ft6

11-05-2008, 03:39 PM

DirtDog

11-05-2008, 03:50 PM

Jack, I appreciate it, that is exactly the type of reassurance I need. I think at this point, I just need to go for it. I can sit and fret about what damage I've done already, what the different noises are, if it is now too cold outside to start and engine for the first time, but in the end, I just have to to do it.

You're most welcome. It can be a scary thing to start up a fresh engine for the first time. I was the service manager at the local Chevy dealership here in Livingston for 3 months, and I got to do the PDI (pre delivery inspection) on all the new cars and trucks that came to the dealership. almost all of them would make some little noises when first started up, but they would go away after a few minutes. It's just simple thinking, you have a new engine full of new un worn parts, they will make some racket until they get "worn-in" and everything becomes seated properly. This is why the break in period is so important. I'm glad I could help you.

Jack.

JMoney02

11-05-2008, 11:13 PM

Big6ft6,

Now food for thought. Only run the break in oil for 500 miles. Change to a good grade oil for you 3mo/3k timeframe and then do it again for 3mo/3k miles. After this you can run any synthentic blend
if you wish, but should break in with regular oil first. Just did the S15 Jimmy that I have 2 yrs ago with a 4.3l Vortec, Roller Motor and have 6k on it now and its running great, with Catrol Full Syn 10w/30.
The Jimmy is a toy to tinker with and even now with how many motors that I've built it still is nerv
racking at first start up, even with all the checks and rechecks, but when it fires, BAM....:biggrin: Ain't
Nottin' better....... Glad I/We all could help......

CarpenterGuy

11-06-2008, 12:05 AM

A FULL TANK! thats not something i see often

DirtDog

11-06-2008, 09:59 AM

A FULL TANK! thats not something i see often

LOL. I did not either for awhile. My truck gets about 22MPG so it stays that way now.:money: And gas prices here have DROPPED a lot, it's only $1.89 a gallon here.:great:

Jack.

Big6ft6

11-06-2008, 05:57 PM

Thanks Jmoney,

Well, I went and fired it up, but my tach wasn't working. So I had a choice, shut 'er down and dink with the tach (knowing I'd have to re-fire the engine every time to see if it was working) and continue to damage my cam by not following the proper break in.

Or my other option, just play it by ear and hope I'm keeping her beween 1500-2000rpms as people suggest.

The other factor is that I have NO time left for this...we're now in the 40's for highs here in WI and this is in my dirveway, plus it gets dark by 5:00pm.

So I adjusted the gas pedal to what seemed like a healthy rpm...and put a 2x4 against the pedal let her go, I walked around the front, looking for leaks etc.

I don't have an exhuast on this truck so the racket is quite loud and added to my sense of anxiety that something will go wrong, and preventing me form relaxing and keeping a level head.

Well, I kept watching the oil pressure since that was my most recent concern, but never really looked at the coolant temp...

after about 10 minutes I looked down to see the coolant gauge pegging out!! I freaked out and reached for the key just as coolant started blowing out the relief on the radiator!!

My heart lept into my throat throughts raced through my mind!! "Whats wrong!! The engine must be siezing! I've RUINED IT once and for all"....every terrible thing is running through my head as the smell of vaporized antifreeze permeates the air.

Then I calmed and down and started thinking through stuff...the radiator is the original with over 209k miles..."I'll bet I had too high RPMs and the cooling system couldn't keep up" I figured.... Great, now I'm SURE I ruined it, over-revving a brand new engine...then over-heating it, I'm such a dunce.

This poor engine deserves better...plus I almost had an anurism during this process, I'm taking years off my life with this stress of this project.

I would give a lot to know what kind fo RPMs I was pullin...now I"m second guessing myself...I'll bet I had the engine revving way too high.

I dinked with the tach for a while and let things cool down. Then I added some more water and fired her back up, tach stil lisn't reading. My over-paranoid mind was sure the engine sounded different now...I could just picture black cylinders and burnt rings...

the temp climbed back up over 210 pretty quick...so I shut it back down. Called it quits for the night, I probably should order a new radiator if I'm going through all this trouble with a new engine. Another$200 to add to the budget.

I peaked in the radiator, it is covered with scale inside, I'm sure it hardly removes any heat, I should've known better than to keep that old radiator. Rebuilt engines create a lot more heat with the tighter clearnaces.

Anyway, I'm pretty bummed out. Does anybody have any words of comfort? Any stories of how much you can abuse a SB chevy and it will still be fine to cheer me up?

DirtDog

11-07-2008, 12:30 AM

Ok, since you shut the engine down before anything to weird happened, you should still be fine. Just get that radiator replaced BEFORE you run it any more, and be sure your cooling fan works. If you want to, pull your plugs and check them out. That can tell you a bit about the condition of the engine. You could also drain the oil and refill it with fresh break-in oil, the condition of the oil you drain out will also tell you a lot. Hope this helps

Jack.

GaryL

11-07-2008, 08:59 AM

When I do a break in, I always have a water hose at hand to spray the radiator down as it starts to heat up. Sitting still running that rpm on a brand new engine generates a lot of heat that the cooling fan alone can't keep up with.

Big6ft6

11-07-2008, 10:55 AM

Gary, that is a great idea, I'll definitly add that idea to my mental library.

Especially in my situation, I knew the radiator was old and cruddy, and I had read that a new engine will generate more heat. For some reason that didn't add up to a concern in my head about cooling. I guess cuz my old engine never had a problem. But I also never sat in mydriveway and revved my old engine for 20 minutes!

I should have been more worried about the cooling system...but my mind was so full of all the other things to worry about, rpms, oil pressure, wierd noises squeals, the check engine light, neighbors getting mad (no exhuast) etc....out the cooling was just not front and center on my radar.

I wish I had a buddy who was around to help in my driveway, two minds are better than one and probably would've saved me some grey hairs.

JMoney02

11-11-2008, 10:08 PM

Big6ft6,

Jacks right and I believe I said it before, now more than ever. check the plugs, change your breakin oil again and your doing fine. Nothing is more frustrating then trying to stay calm when money is on the line. Change the radiator, right on and a must. Good advice for the hose for cooling the Rad. I believe your RPM's will be ok or you would have heard a solid clunk from the cam, heard lifter noises, but thats
also hard without some sort of exhaust, which would help with some of the heat, got to go to work for now sorry will finish post after I get the job done.......... Stay Tune.

Jeff

JMoney02

11-11-2008, 10:50 PM

Big6ft6,

Sorry I work nights, so while I work I play on the Web as well with the hobbies I have and that can cause me to get out of where I'm playing and need to work. Now, back to the real stuff. How long did you run the motor before overheat? Enough for Cam break in? Sounds like you did, if so then definitely change the oil to new break in, check, clean and re-gap plugs if need be. Correct Rad. problems, make sure since it is getting cold in your neck of the woods to get some anti-freeze in the Rad. Make sure fan is working, hook up exhaust so can hear the motor better and go with the next step. Check timing if possible, all other normal stuff and get this baby running, since I believe it's time.
Sounds like your on your way now, if everything above checks out, then its time to run it easy, break it in for 500 miles, change oil to conventional and go for the synthetic after 2 changes. Motor will run hot, then settle down after 1k or so, motor will loosen up as well. Keep up the good work, keep you focus and don't sweat it, you will concour.........

Jeff

Big6ft6

11-12-2008, 08:41 AM

Thanks Jeff!

I will buy some more break-in oil and change the oil out. I purchased a new radiator, of course, it doesn't fit quite right even though it was listed as for my truck, oh well, I just need to be creative and I was able to get it in there.

This whole mail order business is hard too, I have to wait 3 days for a part, then if it doesn't fit, I have to pay shipping to return it and wait another 3 days to try the next part.

I would say 2/3s of the time working on this project has been spent either waiting for parts to be mailed, or driving to and from the car parts/hardware store 150 times to buy $0.40 worth of bolts and washers.

Amazing I still seem to have 80% of those bolts and washers sitting on my workbench? With no apparent idea of what I bought them for!

JMoney02

11-12-2008, 11:44 PM

Big6ft6,

I am sorry to hear this, it makes for ruff times as I see your in Wisconsin, which I guess that stores are not right down the street? I have friends in KC that have relatives in WI so I can understand. But, is there not a CO. that will provide return shipping at their cost? Not sure who you are dealing with but
I would guess that with the cash you've spent that they could "Could Help A Brother Out" :gasp:So
keep it up as I know that you will get it done, hope you have a garage to work in? Sorry, but its time that you having make feel real glad that I live in Florida, no disrespect given..... As i was in my pool
last Sat/Sunday, sorry......

Jeff

IrishBrewer

11-13-2008, 11:03 AM

This sort of goes without saying but you might as well put in a new thermostat while you are replacing the radiator. Its a $10 part so if your old one was still good, you're not out much.

Good luck.

Big6ft6

11-13-2008, 03:08 PM

I'm at a loss for words....

I went home over lunch today, got the new radiator in, diconnected the coil wire and cranked it over to get oil pressure up, then I started it. It took a bunch to get it started, then clouds of blue smoke come out, and and it sounded TERRIBLE, started to squeal really quick. So I shut it off.

I'm about to quit. Get rid of this disaster, I cannot take it any long, the feeling of weight off my shoulders having this truck/project out of my life would be worth the $1000 I'd lose in the sale.

I'll give it one last shot, I'll get the exhuast cobbled together, look at some of the plugs, make sure nothing seems obviously bad, I'll start it one more time.

If it keeps sqealing and sounding horrible, I'm done...I don't care how much I lose. This stress is taking years off my life.

phoebeisis

11-13-2008, 03:55 PM

Big6'6"- you have my sympathy. Many times I have poured good $$ after bad- mainly with beat up old motorcycles.

Who did the motor rebuild? Was it a GM rebuild or new GM goodwrench or a GM performance motor.
I ask beacuse my 98 Suburban has 207,300 miles on it,and I'm considering buying a new GM crate motor.You can get a genuine new- not rebuilt 5.7 for about $2400 delivered- a real bargain.

I suspect you could get a TBI 350 -true GM and new not rebuilt for about $2000 delivered.

I can see bailing on this one,and just parting it out.Too much time and too much money-takes too many years off your life!

Good luck,
Charlie

Big6ft6

11-13-2008, 04:31 PM

Charlie,

thanks for the sympathy. No this is not a GM Crate engine, this was a rebuilt TBI motor by a local shop. I have reciepts, but the problem is I wasn't the person who originally had the engine rebuilt. I purchased it from that person. It was still in the plastic, and was clearly never run. I have the reciepts for the rebuild.

I only bought a rebuilt motor becuase the guy was desperate and I got it for $600, rebuild reciepts were for $1000+. I only paid $500 for the entire truck though! So this was a major upgrade! BUt seeing how other used motors were in the $300 range, it seem an extra $300 for a fresh engine was worth it! NEVER AGAIN.

This is just way too stressful. I have installed a couple engines before, but they were used engines, so I knew they ran, and I didn't have to panic so much about this darn "break in" and wondering if the engine was built right etc.

I just want this thing out of my life so I can start fresh again.

phoebeisis

11-13-2008, 07:21 PM

Big6'6",
Yeah, dump that sucker-life is just too short. You didn't dump too much $$ in it,so you can get some out buy selling it all, or parting it out.

I wish I had 10 cents of every dollar I dumped into POS "runners that just needed a little TLC."

Luck,
Charlie

Big6ft6

11-14-2008, 08:27 AM

o.k.

Well, it is final. Something is really wrong with engine. I spent last night (in the rain in my driveway 43 degrees) hooking up the exhuast. I climbed in the truck and fired it up. She started quickly and ran nice and smooth....for about 45 seconds.

Suddently there is a horrid metal rubbing/grinding sound that almost vibrates the whole truck coming from the engine. It dounds like someone wedged something in the engine. I immediately shut her down.

At this point, figuring it is all over anyway, I fired it back up...same thing runs fine for about 20 seonds at 1500 rpm....then same noise, this time a little louder and ending with a squeal.

I shut her down.

So is this the infamous "spun bearing"? Something is obviously heating up and expanding outside of tolerance in the engine. This would be more of an oil issue right? Can you cause a beraing problem like this from my one overheating episode? Or is it likely something else was wrong with the engine to begin with?

Oh well...now I've got to decide what to do with the truck and the engine.

I know it sounds saidistic, but now that I have all new parts and shiney bolts in the engine compartment. Taking out and replacing the engine would be a pretty quick deal.....

Hmmmm....

JMoney02

11-18-2008, 12:25 AM

Big6ft6,

Jeff Here, I am so sorry about your pain. Just with the weather alone this would suck big time. All answers given are sound advise, along with you own thoughts. Sometimes we here or any sight are working in the dark as we answer questions, which is what I do for a living and sometimes you really just want to be there so you can see it for yourself.
Yes, from the start with the overheat can cause problems, not sure how much runtime you've had but
a MAIN or CAM bearing can be the issue if the sound comes after a little runtime. Again, I ask if this is a project of yours or do you need this truck for everyday driving? GM crates motors are very reliable and provide a warranty, take all your ggod parts and use them, if this is pratical?
Tear this motor down, as you really don't know what the Ye'Ho did to this one, or the rebuild Co. for that matter, unless you know them and if so are they good? Will they honor your receipts from the guy you bought it from? You need to look at this as experience, not as a pain in the A.., things never go really perfect everytime, do they?
What do you want to do? Make the choice and stick with it, but as it was stated sometimes we need to cut our losses and move on, reflect and do it again, learn from the mistakes and always make sure of yourself....

Jeff

Big6ft6

11-18-2008, 08:43 AM

JMoney02

11-19-2008, 01:12 AM

JMoney,

Thanks for the advice. For now I'm taking a break from the project. It was 17 degrees this morning, and I'm just not working outside in times like this.

I'm starting to lean towards the idea of keeping my eye out for a cheap used 100K engine for a couple hundred bucks...throw that in the truck, then start to tear down this "rebuilt" engine and use it as a learning experience, maybe if it can be repaired, I'll repair it and re-install it.

Luckily this is not my day-to-day vehicle, but it is my only truck/4x4, and I was hoping to have it done for the winter, we recieved 100+ inches snow last year! And I was looking forward to climbing in the tank on those days with 2 feet of snow and flyin' around like a maniac in my beater with a new engine!

Oh well, the trusty escort wagon can hold its own in all but the worst!

Yes, sometimes it is time to get away and re-group. I believe you hae made your decision and it sounds like a good one. This way you can see what errors not to make when you torn down the motor and check it out, if you choose to. It is a pain in the A.. to work when it cold, especially outside, Sorry.
Everyone is here when you are ready to either pickup or start from scratch again. It's nice that you have the other modes of tansportation to work on something like this, you will be climbing mounds here soon, keep the faith.....

Jeff

Big6ft6

11-19-2008, 08:25 AM

Jeff and everyone else who has taken the time to reply,

Just want to say thanks. I'm not sure if everyone gets as emotional wrapped up in their car projects as I do. But when things are going wrong, I can't tell you how much all of you who respond to my questions help me make it through the work day.

If I had to just sit by myself at work for 8 hours with a burning question in my head and no one to ask, I'd go nuts. Putting the question on the forum allows me to get through the day (Except for checking for responses every 8 minutes!!)

thanks again, I'll be back much sooner than later!!

Mr.sig

11-23-2008, 01:04 PM

good luck with everything

might want to check the gauge and perform a leak down test.

phoebeisis

11-23-2008, 03:08 PM

Big,
We know the feeling.When things go bad , it occupies almost every waking thinking moment. You think of 100's possible "things' toss away the idea, get another etc.

Let us know the final verdict when you find it. , or if you just decide to cut your losses and get a new motor , or sell everything off.

Charlie

Big6ft6

11-28-2008, 08:02 PM

Solution!!!

Thanksgiving morning I was able to trying things one more time. This time with my brother in the driver's seat so I could get out and listen and look.

I fired it up and things sounded o.k. for a few seconds, I jumped out told my brother to get in and rev it up to 1500 rpms, I quickly dropped to the ground to inspect the flywheel and torque converter (not connectred), I noticed the flywheel was not rotating smoothly, and as it wobbled it started to grab the torque converter and spin it, the torque converter started to spin up and immediately the horrible shrieking ensued, I yelled for my brother to shut it down.

I didn't know why the flex plate wobbled so much? The first time I ran the truck, this was not an issue. The only thing I had changed was connecting the timing control wire for the computer to control timing, so I diconnected it.

I started the truck back up, and the flywheel spun smoothly and didn't grab the torque converter.

So, the good news is the engine is not ruined!! The engine sounds great, and I finished breaking it in.

Now two new questions.
1) Why would my flexplate wobble when the computer control wire was connected for the timing? And is this a problem?

2) I have no fluid in my transmission, I have run things to the point of the shrieking starting at least 5 times. I assume the shrieking was the front pump spinning up and overheating with no fluid. Is my transmission most likely trashed?

Anyway, I'm feeling good to know my new engine is not ruined!! :)

steves86ta

12-02-2008, 05:53 PM

Big6ft6

12-03-2008, 10:15 AM

i take it that your flywheel is not bolted to the torque convertor? If it isnt, then i would be willing to bet that the shreiking grinding noise is the flywheel rubbing on the torque convertor if i read the post right. As far as the trans being toast, i doubt it, i would add fluid to it asap and bolt the flywheel up to it and let it run that way for a little while

Steve, you were right! Once I bolted up the torque converter and added some fluid, I never heard a squeak, and best of all my truck drove forwards and backwards!!

Now the only issue I have is my timing. With the engine running and the EIC wire disconnected, I set my timing to 0 BTDC, the only problem is now the engine won't start, I slowly advanced the timing until the engine would start and run happy....and according to my gun I'm at 20 BTDC at idle!!!

What the???? I"m nervous, but the engine seems happy...that can't be right could it? 20 deg BTDC at idle?

The truck has a bit more cam, but otherwise it is stock TBI, and the cam was suppose to not need any computer chip re-programming. Maybe I have an incorrect balancer on there?

steves86ta

12-03-2008, 11:07 AM

Big6ft6

12-03-2008, 11:15 AM

You probably have the distributor off by a tooth, pull it back out a little bit then turn t the way you are having to turn it to get it to start then try to get it one tooth over... happends all the time

steve, thanks for the idea. The distributor being off a tooth shouldn't impact where my timing mark aligns against the timing tab when the engine is running. Once the engine fires and is running smoothly it doesn't matter which distributor tooth is engaged, your number 1 post might just be a little further around in the distirbutor pattern.

But the timing mark will still be at 0 on the timing tab when #1 piston is at TDC.

The factory says idle timing with EIC wire disconnected should be 0 BTDC, but my engine won't start at 0 BTDC, it needs what appears to be 20 BTDC, then is tarts and runs fine?

\That seems pretty excessive to me? BUt I don't hear any knocking or anytyhing?

Maybe my timing gun is wacked?

steves86ta

12-03-2008, 11:43 AM

if the distributor is off a tooth, then you are firing retarded when you are reading it at 0* so it would make sense to the fact that it takes you 20* to get it to run correctly. If i am thinking right, its been a long ass time since i was working on something with a distributor

Big6ft6

12-03-2008, 11:53 AM

Steve, I know what you mean, this issue turns my brain into a pretzel.

However, the last time I struggled with it, I ended up understanding it like this.

Being off a tooth is only a factor if you pulled your distributor to do something..like fix an intake gasket, and you marked the location of your cap against your manifold. Then when you go back to assemble things and drop the distributor back in...if you are off a tooth, the mark you left to help keep your original timing will no longer be accurate and the truck will not start etc.

However, if you are starting from scratch, you can install the distributor any way you like but you just have to be sure you hook your wires up correctly. For example you could have your #1 post at the back of the distributor if you want...but you have to be sure that the rotor is pointing towards the back when #1 piston is at TDC when you drop in the distributor, and you have to be sure to hook the wires up in order from that new starting point.

But everything would still run and your timing light would still flash when the #1 piston was at TDC becuase the rotor would be hitting the post (in this example the rear-most post on the cap) at the right time.

So it shouldn't matter what tooth your distributor is engaged unless you marked the relationship between your cap and manifold before removal and you want to re-use the same position for #1 wire post when you re-intall it

Anyway...that was my last understadning of the whole distributor tooth issue....but I can almost convice myself again that being off a tooth could retard my timing if I'm not careful!! :)

steves86ta

12-03-2008, 12:19 PM

yes that makes sense, But did you put the #1 wire on the distributor where you are supposed to put it, or did you compensate incase it is off a tooth

Big6ft6

12-03-2008, 01:37 PM

yes that makes sense, But did you put the #1 wire on the distributor where you are supposed to put it, or did you compensate incase it is off a tooth

Yep, I'm sure of that. Without it being in the right place the engine wouldn't run. Once the engine is running you are good as far as distributor rough-aligntment, then it is all about fine tuning the distributor cap position with a timing light.

That is where I'm at. I'm fine tuning with the timing light...and it seems my engine wants to be at 20 degrees BTDC? The factory says it should be happiest at 0 degrees BTDC, and these TBI engines are prone to detonation...so I'm worried about having such an advanced static timing.

GaryL

12-03-2008, 02:23 PM

You say it won't start at 0, but when you start it at 20, will it still run at 0? If so, set it to 0, shut it off, plug in the wire and see if it will start. (if you haven't tried this already)

Big6ft6

12-03-2008, 02:52 PM

You say it won't start at 0, but when you start it at 20, will it still run at 0? If so, set it to 0, shut it off, plug in the wire and see if it will start. (if you haven't tried this already)

Gary ,

I did do this, it will start as long as the engine is still warm from running at 20 advanced. But after I let it sit for 30 minutes in the cold, the engine won't start of the static timing is at 0.

I have to loosen the distributor and advance timing to get it to start.

What is the deal? Is my computer still needing to "learn" or "adjust" to the timing position and the new engine?

With the engine cold and the timing at zero the engine just cranks endlessly, if I hold the ky long enough, it will start to come to life, but never catch and run. Just drains my battery.