Inner door handle replacement 95-99 GM truck part 1

[vncj96]

Tools:
long shafted flat blade screwdriver of trim removal tool
philips screwdriver
rivet gun
handle from dealership-34.95
rivet from dealership-free
I was unexperianced and it took 25 minutes including time to take pics

Step one: remove the trim piece around the handle, small circle plate by mirror, two screws in the grasp handle, and the trim peice covering the mirror bolts.
everything but the screws will take careful removal to not break anything
remove the switch plate with your hands it should just pop right out
http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/picture.php?pictureid=2718&albumid=510&dl=1233969147&thumb=1 (http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/album.php?albumid=510&pictureid=2718)

http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/picture.php?pictureid=2715&albumid=510&dl=1233969102&thumb=1 (http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/album.php?albumid=510&pictureid=2715)

http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/picture.php?pictureid=2717&albumid=510&dl=1233969102&thumb=1 (http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/album.php?albumid=510&pictureid=2717)

http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/picture.php?pictureid=2716&albumid=510&dl=1233969102&thumb=1 (http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/album.php?albumid=510&pictureid=2716)

[vncj96]

Step two: remove the door panel, there are nine trim pins that hold the panel to the door, once those are popped out you slide the entire panel straight up, be sure to pull out the door's light bulb

http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/picture.php?pictureid=2720&albumid=510&dl=1233969147&thumb=1 (http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/album.php?albumid=510&pictureid=2720)

Step three: drill out the rivet, be sure to not go too deep

http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/picture.php?pictureid=2719&albumid=510&dl=1233969147&thumb=1 (http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/album.php?albumid=510&pictureid=2719)

Step four: remove the white pins on the old handle that hold the handle and locking rods in place, these can just be broken they are not reused, then you can slide the handle assembly forward and pull it out.

http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/picture.php?pictureid=2721&albumid=510&dl=1233969174&thumb=1 (http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/album.php?albumid=510&pictureid=2721)

Step five: slide new handle back in and attach the two rods, then rivet it back in place

http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/picture.php?pictureid=2722&albumid=510&dl=1233969174&thumb=1 (http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/album.php?albumid=510&pictureid=2722)

Step six: carefully put everything back in in the order it came out, be careful to line up all the door pins before you start pushing them back into the retainers within the inner door panel, these do break easy but if you lose a few in the process its no big deal

[Dr_Zero]

Now you tell me how to do it! LOL after I got body shop to fix my wifes.:gasp:

Good write up good to know for the next time I have do mine. If you are on a budget you can get a handle like that for about $15 from the parts store in the HELP! parts section.
It seems to work just as well but I dont know how long it will last compared to the OEM.

[Springthing]

Awesome. Good write-up - should come in handy for a lot of folks in the future. For a good oem chevy parts dealer that sells this handle at a good price go to www.gmpartsclub.com

[chevyrulz]

oh man, thanks for the write up. i haven't tried this yet, but my flopping passenger door looks horrible and my friends are tired of having to roll down the window.

now how bout the outer door handles?? some obama supporter popped them with a flathead screwdriver trying to break into my tahoe @ the boat landing.

[StillMatic]

I had to do this last year. I got tired of having to roll my window down just to open the door from the outside.

[MWright936]

Great write up!! Thanks for the info!

...some obama supporter popped them with a flathead screwdriver trying to break into my tahoe @ the boat landing.

:rofl: Nicely put!

[kennyb79]

Nice write up....I wish I would have read this before I did the job on my 1999 suburban. I busted the plastic piece around the handle. Anyway you can always get discount parts on places like ebay too...

[chevyrulz]

:rofl: Nicely put!




sad, but true...

[vncj96]

Thanks for the comments guys, that damn Obama supporter has got both front doors on mine, i will soon get that one up here as well!

[FireRed]

Well I got the new handle in the mail last week, but with rain and Easter preparations it got put off until today. You instructions were:great: I could not get the plugs off the switch assy so I had to work around the hanging by wires panel:grrrrrr: my handle came with :no: rivet. Not to be deterred it now has a 1/4"X1/2" sheet metal screw, also the new handle was not drilled for the screw that holds the decor ring in place. But all in all it went quite well, took me about 45 minutes to have the extreme pleasure of not having to drop the window to get out!!! And best of all No Blood Was Shed!!!!

Thanks a bunch for you thoughtfulness of posting the regime to do it!!!

Phil

P.S. If you get to Long Island I owe U a beer or three!!

[JPfrmME]

Thanks for the great article on replacing the interior door handle. I just finished installing a new door handle on my 1999 Suburban (125k miles) ; but had to quit for the night while the JB weld sets up. I broke off one of the bosses that holds the faster head to the door panel. I used the NAPA door panel removal tool; but it is a little too thick I think. It measures about 1/16 inch at the thinest part of the “claw”. About half that would work better. I am sure the JP Weld will hold the door in place; but it may not stand up to the abuse that I gave it taking it apart; but I may never have to do that again to find out.


I would like to add two tools to the tool list: a 3/16 inch sharp drill bit and a 3/16 inch pop rivet gun to remove and reinstall the handle retaining rivet. I had to go to the local parts store to buy a rivet gun kit including the rivets, cost was $14.


I am sure that someone with all the tools available and the knowledge of how to remove all of the items listed in step one could do the job in 25 minutes; but it took me that long to figure out how to unplug the electrical connector for the power window and another 25 to figure out how to remove the door handle trim ring. To unplug the electrical connector required a long slender screw driver be inserted into the outside of the connector, where the push in lock tab is located. Merely pushing in on the tab until it clicked was not good enough. Had to hold it in with a screw driver pushed in while I pulled the plug out. There is only one locking tab and it is in the center of the long, smooth side of the connector (not the side with the fingers sticking out).


I was able to figure out where the fastening fingers for the door trim ring are located by looking at the new handle, there are 3 slots where locking tabs can be inserted to latch onto the handle assembly. One over and one under the handle pull and one on the vertical surface at the rear end. Stick a small skinny screw driver in the inside side of each of these 3 spots and the rear end of the trim ring will easily come out. A little wiggling will pop out a fourth tab that is located on the forward end of the trim ring and cannot be accessed with a screw driver.


The fasteners that hold the door panel to the door are actually two piece fasteners. The long skinny half resembles a scaffolding nail (they have two heads) with grooves on the pointed end that resemble threads. The larger shorter half of the fastener is a receptacle that is supposed to remain on the metal part of the door when you pop out the long skinny half. If you can get your removal tool claw under the inner head of the fastener, you can exert all the force on the fastener and avoid breaking your door panel the way I did. One other hint that I would like to add is to remove the small access panel on the rear edge of the door below the door latch near the bottom of the door. 3 hex head screws hold it in place. By removing it, you can see one of the panel fasteners from the inside and see where they are located and what you are dealing with. One other comment about step 1. The small round (about 1 inch diameter) plug in the door panel at the top front end does not need to be removed to do this job.


Having removed the old handle and installed the new one, my door once again opens from the inside. BTW the new handle cost me $68 at the dealership.

Hope this is helpful to others who want to have a go at it.:sign0173:

[vncj96]

Really the handle cost you $68 from the dealership, what a rip dealership!

[HiLineMan]

Thanks for the posts, gang! I found a replacement assy at the local Advance Auto parts for $16. The handle itself was the right color (gray) but the plastic assy was a bit darker than the tan on the 99 Sub, so I pulled the handle loose and put it into the old assy. The info posted here saved me lots of time and some bucks, too. Thanks again! -Dave

[wadefisher]

I have a 2000 Chevy C2500 crewcab. Your instructions were spot on for my truck too. picked up the part at Autozone for $16. At $16 I felt like I actually won one. Happier now that crap is fixed. I can't believe what junk those factory handles are.

I would add that removing the trim ring around the old handle is done by putting the flat blade screwdriver between the handle and the trim ring. Not from outside of the trim ring.

Thanks again....Now does anybody have instructions for removing the stupid vanity mirror from the visor? The damn door hinges broke off (both visors) and now I have a penny taped to the switches to keep the lights off. Junk!!!

Randy