Rebuilding Projector Headlights for 2005 Silverado [Archive] - Chevy Truck Forum

TRPLXL2

05-16-2009, 08:31 PM

Three years ago I bought a set of Matrix Projector headlights with the halo's and LED's, I didn't get a chance to install them until 6 months later when I checked them I found out they were DOA. The only thing that worked on them were the headlight bulbs, the LED's and Halo's were non-functional. I wasn't able to return them so I put them on the truck, well a few weeks later they filled up with water and fogged horribly so I took them off and threw them in my closet until here recently. Here is a picture of the headlights when I pulled them out of the closet, I love the looks of them but the functionality of them is more to be desired.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_1893.jpg

I took the hair dryer and went around the housing to get the silicone to soften up, and then I worked a flat blade screw driver around the lense to get the headlight apart. After about 10 minutes it finally came apart with no damage done, you can see a couple of pry marks in the picture but I flattened these out with a pair of needle nose pliars easily. This is the back of the headlight housing after seperation, notice the grey silicone around the perimeter. A lot of people will leave that bead of silicone in and just reheat it and seal them back up, but I wanted to start from scratch so I pulled it all out. I used a philips screw driver and started a pice of silicone on the end, and then I just rolled it like you would spaghetti on a fork it worked almost 100%
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2013.jpg

This is the inside of the front of the headlights, the red and black wires that are exposed are for the halo's.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2012.jpg

This is the chrome insert seperated from the clear headlight lense, it was held in place by 4 tiny screws which I used an eye glass screw driver to get them out. The halo's were also taken out in this picture, each halo was held in place by 2 small screws and the wiring was carefully pulled through the narrow slot at the bottom of the halo opening.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2016.jpg

TRPLXL2

05-16-2009, 08:48 PM

I pulled the rubber boot off of the back of the high beam socket, this shows the H1 bulb that came with the headlights along with the metal retaining hardware from inside the headlight. The rubber plugs in the background are from the back of the headlight housing, the wires from the halo's were ran through 2 tiny holes in that plug. Everything was in good shape for the high beams on both sides, but the same couldn't be said for the low beams.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2014.jpg

This is a picture of the low beam wiring when I pulled them out, the driver's side had been burnt through and the insulator was fried. Prior to taking these headlights out of the truck, I noticed a flickering with the driver's side bulb and it finally went out but the bulb was still good. After seeing this I know why I had that problem, this was stock wiring too no fancy stuff! Instead of jerry rigging it, I cut all of the wiring out and replaced it with brand new wiring and connectors myself.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2015.jpg

I removed the projector bracket by taking out 4 philips head screws, this allowed me to pull out the lense itself which is pretty cool looking in it's self.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2017.jpg

These are the stock halo's that came out of the headlights, they originally had 22AWG wire, but I wanted to upgrade so I put some 18AWG wire in place which in turn took up more space.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2019.jpg

TRPLXL2

05-16-2009, 09:06 PM

The high beam reflector is on the right hand side, and this is a shot of the low beam projector without the lense in. You can now see the cut-off plate in there (silver), this is what gives you the nice cut-off line at night time versus light scattered everywhere. I did take this out and and try the headlight without it thinking it would make it brighter, but it actually made the light go all over the place making it even worse. I ended up putting it back in reluctantly, but it does serve a purpose believe it or not.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2018.jpg

This when I took the whole projector apart, you can see that cut-off plate really good here on the left hand side. On the right is the low beam projector completely stripped down, it is definately cool to see it like this!
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2027.jpg

This is yet another thing I found broken inside of these headlights, the low beam adjustment screw snapped off and left the projector dangling. The projector itself was just floating in the housing, basically they had it held in place with some glue and a plastic tab inserted into the back of the projector. I have the pencil in there to show how much it was off, this made it unable to adjust these at all the way I got them.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2025.jpg

The bottom screw is the one I took out of the headlights, it only allowed for minimal adjustment at most. I believe these headlights are only meant for stock vehicles, my truck is lifted 6" which means more downward angle adjustment which in turn broke the adjuster from to much strain. They don't tell you this when you buy them though, I have had a ton of people PM me telling me the exact thing happened on there headlights due to the extra height of the lift. I went to Auto Zone and bought 4 adjusters for a Chrysler 1988+ vehicles for $1.99, and wouldn't you know it they worked perfectly!
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2033.jpg

TRPLXL2

05-16-2009, 09:27 PM

The original adjustment screw is on the left hand side, and as you can see the one on the right has a lot more room for adjustment. They do fit under the headlight lense without modification, and they enabled me to adjust them almost all the way down on the ground if I wanted to.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2034.jpg

This is the completed projector after the new adjuster was installed, this is the adjustment I needed to compensate for the lift kit. It is about a 35-45 degree angle down, but I didn't want to blind anybody either. Another thing I did was get rid of all of the plastic pieces from their adjuster, and mine is all metal which is better for wear.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2035.jpg

These headlights and marker lights came with 5 LED's per side, they were just two wires per LED so instead of having a ball of wires behind the headlights I made up a harness of my own. I used 18 AWG wire and I also used some Delphi metri-pak connectors, this is the only connector I use on my truck mostly because of the durability and the fact that I have never had one fail yet! This harness plugs directly into my running lights too, I always try not to cut any wires If I can help it.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2021.jpg

These are the different bulbs that I have ran in my truck before, they are all 194 style bulbs and they are relatively easy to find. The yellow base are the amber color street legal bulbs, the white base are white but they look more like blue. And the blue base are what I was running until I got a fix-it ticket, they are color changing LED's which change automatically. This is about $100 worth of bulbs, in case you were curious.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2022.jpg

TRPLXL2

05-16-2009, 09:41 PM

I will show you real quick how you can make a GM connector that will match up with the factory stuff, I have probably 50 of these on various vehicles I own and I love them to death. They range from 1 pin all the way up to 6 pin connectors, and then you can also buy what are called duetsche connectors which are used for PTM/ECM modules DLC connector ABS modules or anything really. This is a picture of a 2 prong metri-pack connector, I used these to hook up all of my LED's and halo's and all the off-road lights too. The male connector is on the right hand side, and the female is on the left hand side.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_1957.jpg

These are the actual terminals that go inside of the connectors, the male terminals are on the left and the females are on the right hand side. They do come in all different sizes, ranging from 14AWG all the way up to 22AWG.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_1958.jpg

You can't use a regular crimper on those terminals, because they will basically just smash them and not make a good connection. MSD ignition makes a set of specialty crimpers that will do the job, I bought mine at Summit Racing along with the appropriate dies for these connectors.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_1960.jpg

I got lucky and found these at a local tool show and got them for a great price, these are also a necessity if you are really going to get into the wiring heavy. The purpose of these is to be able to remove factory prongs without damaging the existing sockets, when you are messing with the ECM or PTM you must have these to do the job right.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_1961.jpg

TRPLXL2

05-16-2009, 09:55 PM

The green things in front are the weather proof boots for the connectors, they get slid over the wire before you do anything else. They also come in different colors, grey, green, blue, yellow.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_1959.jpg

After you slide the weatherproof boot over the wire, strip back the wire 1" from the end and twist it to make a tight spiral. Slide the terminal over the end of the wire, and take your crimpers and put the terminal in the appropriate slot. The black wire at the bottom is already crimped, noticed the nice tight crimp that made the teeth bite into the wiring. It also hods onto the wiring insulation itself with a loop further back, the crimper does all of that in one step no need for multiple crimps.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_1962.jpg

Once you finish crimping the wires appropriately, you just slide them into the connector until you hear them click into place. Then once they are seated slide your rubber boots into the back of the connectors, this seals the back of the connector from moisture and dirt.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_1965.jpg

This is what the complete connector looks like, the male side has the waterproof boot built into it(right side). Once these are connected they are air tight, they can only go together one way thanks to a safety clip on the back side. Long story short that's how I do my wiring, It works for me that's all I care about!
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_1968.jpg

TRPLXL2

05-16-2009, 10:11 PM

This is the stock setup in the halo's, it is soldered to a little mini board.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2020.jpg

When I cut open the heat shrink I found a resister and a diode in line with the hot wire, I found out that they were running a 220 ohms resistor and a IN4007 diode.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2023-1.jpg

Then it was time to do some major shopping, first I bought some high temperature headlight sockets to prevent the melting I had before. AutoZone had them for $11.99 for a set, so I bought two sets one set for high beam and one set for low beam.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2036.jpg

I bought a tube of RTV clear sealant to seal the headlights back up, and I also got this at AutoZone for $6.50 a tube.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2037.jpg

TRPLXL2

05-16-2009, 10:59 PM

I also purchased some reflective tape from Walmart for $1.97 a roll, this is for a later step with the halo's.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2050.jpg

I went to Summit Racing and bought a set of PIAA H3 extreme white plus for a side project.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2052.jpg

While at Summit Racing I decided to buy two sets of PIAA H1 extreme white bulbs, they are 55 watt bulbs rated at 110 watts of output. 4000 kelvin each.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2055.jpg

A member on this forum told me about a site that I could make my own halo's, even though I didn't have to I still wanted to try it anyways. I can't find the link right off hand, but you can google "homamade angel eyes" and it will come up for you. Long story but it does work, here is a picture of my first batch they are pretty close to being perfect.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2059.jpg

TRPLXL2

05-16-2009, 11:09 PM

My homemade halo is on the left, and the stock one is on the right hand side. The one's I made are slightly smaller in diameter but close enough, I was relatively happy with the results.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2060.jpg

I then experimented on a larger scale, these are halo's I made up for my 6" off-road lights on my truck.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2061.jpg

This is one of the stock halo's with their setup, which consisted of two 1mm white LED's one 4007 diode and one 220 ohms resistor. This is how dull they were from the get go, to me that's not bright at all!
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2062.jpg

This is my setup in the stock halo, two 5mm white LED's, two 4007 diodes, and two 390 ohms resistors. I had to go with a bigger resistor, because of the larger LED's drawing more.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2065.jpg

TRPLXL2

05-16-2009, 11:17 PM

The halo on the right is the halo before, and on the left is the halo after I put reflective tape on the back of the halo. It keeps the light from escaping out into the headlight, I did also notice it intensifies the color too.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2064.jpg

This was my side project, I mounted two 6" Pro Comp lights behind the grille. I am currently waiting on the PIAA harness for them, it is on backorder so it could be a while.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2057.jpg

This sticker was on both housing's when I bought them, this is why I didn't go with HID's. It's gotta be there for a reason?
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2066.jpg

Here's a behind the scenes look at the lights behind the grille, there is a good 8" between them and the radiator. I have had them on for a couple weeks now, and I have not noticed any increase in operating temperature so far. I used pre-existing holes in the grille shell for mounting the lights, the billet insert strengthens the shell making it possible to hold the lights.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2071.jpg

TRPLXL2

05-16-2009, 11:26 PM

I used a dremel to make the cross hatch marks in the halo's, this also helps refract the light even more. I did all four like this with good results, it is just really time consuming!
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2074.jpg

I soldered up 8 LED setups total, each having 18AWG wire 4007 diodes and 390 ohms resistors. I tryed to desolder the old connections from the halo board, but they were too brittle and they broke in the process. So I ended up with twice as many wires out the back, but I still managed to make it work the same. Here they are installed back in the chrome housing, it took some finangling but it worked out.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2075.jpg

I also took and put another coat of reflective tape where the halo's are seated, I know it's sloppy but you can't see it once the halo's are on there anyways.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2078.jpg

This is after I put the headlight back together just to make sure everything fit okay, notice all of the halo wires now versus the old way. I wasn't happy about that, but there was no way around it considering.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2077.jpg

TRPLXL2

05-16-2009, 11:36 PM

I removed the old factory headlight connectors, and I put then new one's in there place. This also gave me about 6 more inches to pull the headlights out, the factory wiring left little room to move before but now it is nice to have some slack. And yes I used heat shrink too, I figured I would forget but I remembered this time!
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2079.jpg

Here I have them in the truck for the first time and yes those are rubber bands holding them together for the first rough fitment check.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2081.jpg

These are my Matrix marker lights, they had both taken on lots of water and had developed what I thought was black mold.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2045.jpg

Here is a close up of the marker lights, all that black gunk I thought was mold. It turns out that is the cheap chrome flaking off and turning black, they are unrepairable and I didn't want to paint them because you basically ruin the light output that way. I have to wait for more money to buy a different set, so for now I have these nasty looking things! %&*@(@#&
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2043.jpg

TRPLXL2

05-16-2009, 11:45 PM

Resealing these headlights was the most aggravating part of this process, there are no flat spots on them at all so putting a clamp on a rounded plastic piece is a lot of fun. Once I got them clamped I left them like that for 3 days to make sure they were sealed, I think I did a good job because the first day I had them in for a test drive it poured down the rain. No leaks, no fogging any more and they are just as nice as can be now.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2094.jpg

This is the low beams on only, along with the marker lights. The reflective tape from the halo's actually lights them up, the halo's are NOT on in this picture.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2084.jpg

These are the marker lights on, along with the halo's. I think the marker lights take away from the halo's, which Is why I wired them seperately to have them on by themselves.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2085.jpg

This is how I have the halo's wired up, they will be all by themselves but for now I still have them unhooked because I am working on a switch panel.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2086.jpg

That's all I am posting today, I will post some more tomorrow night of my other project which I am sure you will find interesting. Any questions just PM me, or you can leave a post on here I don't mind.

TRPLXL2

05-17-2009, 05:53 PM

In the process of taking the headlight's on and off, I managed to lose the headlight retainer pin so I improvised. I am now using a set of 7/32" allen wrenches, they are basically the same style that was in there from the factory.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2100.jpg

I decided to put the switches for the halo's up in the overhead console, this is what I started off with.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2106.jpg

The overhead console is held in place by one philips head screw, and two small clips and the front of the unit. Be careful when pulling it down because the wires are short and you could rip them out, the wire on the left is for the Onstar and the wire on the right is for the map lights.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2107.jpg

Next I took the driver's side sun visor off, and it was held on place by 4 T20 torx bit screws. I took this out to be able to fish the wires up underneath the headliner.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2108.jpg

TRPLXL2

05-17-2009, 06:05 PM

Next I took the driver's side A-pillar off carefully, the Bose tweeter wire is very short and can be ripped out easily. The white plug at the bottom of the pillar is for the tweeter, and that black harness running down is god knows what but I ran mine right next to it.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2109.jpg

This is an inverted picture of where the A-pillar meets the headliner, I was extremely careful to fish the wires through so that I did not break that glue apart. Once you do that you will end up with all kinds of problems, shifting, sagging, and a bunch of mis-aligned holes.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2110.jpg

Letting it all hang out! All the red and black wires are for my halo's, plus I ran a couple extra sets for down the road for whatever else I might get. I had to pull the front of the dash also, because I had done some adjustments to my roll bar lighting which I ran through the dash.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2111.jpg

I ran the wiring under the front of the headliner, down the driver's side A-pillar. Down behind the backside of the dash, through the fuse panel compartment.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2112.jpg

TRPLXL2

05-17-2009, 06:18 PM

Then I ran the wiring down through the E-brake cover, followed it down through the driver's side kick plate. Then I cut over and ran it out through the drain hole in the floor, I am not a huge fan of cutting through the firewall so this is the next best thing. I circled my wires for you to see, this is the only spot where they are visible.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2113.jpg

The wires highlighted in yellow are from my roll bar, they snapped nicely on top of the frame rail where the factory clips were already at. There were a few extra so I took advantage, the red circled harness is for my halo's. I ran them out of the cab and up behind the front fenderwell guard, there is plenty of room plus it keeps the wiring out of the weather.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2114.jpg

I ran the halo wiring behind the brake booster, all along the back of the engine compartment and then down along the driver's side front fender lip. I held it in place of zip ties to keep it out of the way, right now I have it curled up in the front fender until I get the switch panel done.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2115.jpg

Just for fun I posted this picture of the roll bar wiring under the front sill plate, it's the 3/8" wireloom which just barely fits when the sill plate is snapped back on.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2104.jpg

TRPLXL2

05-17-2009, 06:32 PM

Once I got done running all the wires, I took the console in the garage for more work. I cut a 1" hole in the back of the overhead console to feed the wire's through, I also used a grommet to cover any sharp edges there might have been.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2116.jpg

I pulled the wires through the back of the overhead console, and then I plugged the map lights and on-star back in before putting the philips head screw back in and snapping it back in place.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2117.jpg

I bought a sheet of Lexan for my switch panel that I am going to paint the back of it gloss black and then put it in the console, but here are a picture of the switches I bought from Summit Racing for the panel. They are carbon fiber so they match my interior perfectly, that's as far as I got on that part of the project.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2134.jpg

This is the next project I embarked on, these are my Pro Comp 6" lights I had bought years ago for $29 at Summit Racing. They were originally just to plug the holes on my brushguard until I got my PIAA lights, and then they got tossed to the side in the junk pile. Well I decided to put these behind my grille instead, and then I also decided to make halo's for them. This is a picture of the halo already on the light, I made them in the oven and then drilled the ends of the halo to insert the LED's into. In the process I drilled a hole in my finger which did tendon damage, BUT to me it was worth it for this one of a kind mod!
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2125.jpg

TRPLXL2

05-17-2009, 06:40 PM

Because of the larger halo size, I ended up putting four 5mm white LED's in each halo. I ran the wiring under the bracket for mounting, and I eventually pt it all into one shrink tube for a cleaner look. Keep in mind these are behind the grille, so you won't even see the wiring.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2124.jpg

I also experimented with pink LED's for fun, this is the off-road halo without reflective tape. Notice all of the pink light in the center of the light lots of wasted light in this setup.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2119.jpg

This is a white halo after I used the reflective tape on the off-road light, it makes the center completely black while the halo lights up. This is also with only 2 LED's o you can see the dead spot at the bottom, with my new 4 LED setup there is no dead spot and it's even brighter.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2122.jpg

This is a picture of the white halo behind my grille, this is also with only 2 LED's in the halo.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2128.jpg

TRPLXL2

05-17-2009, 06:46 PM

Here's the pink halo behind the grille, but I did go with the white for permanent color I was just having a little fun with these. I am also waiting on a PIAA harness for these driving lights, so they will also be functional.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2127.jpg

Here are both of them on behind the grille, I love this look after all it is all about uniqueness right?
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2130.jpg

After I finished those two huge projects, I was messing around with some other different color LED's. Here is the pink of course, I think it is a site favorite!
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2152.jpg

I forgot to mention these are all on the smaller halo's for the headlights. This is ultraviolet, or like a black light.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2151.jpg

TRPLXL2

05-17-2009, 06:53 PM

This is the green LED's, they are not that bright but if it wasn't for the cuts you wouldn't see them at all.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2150.jpg

This is supposed to be yellow LED's, but they look more like an orange color to me.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2149.jpg

This is the blue LED's, these are the one's I wanted in the headlights but they are illegal but they are my favorite.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2148.jpg

Here is the link I used to help me make my homemade halos, it is a very cool thing to do and you should try it for fun sometime!
http://www.geocities.com/crx_auto/eagle_eyes.htm

TRPLXL2

05-17-2009, 06:58 PM

Here are some videos of the lights on my truck, the halo's aren't wired up yet so they aren't on here but they will be shortly. Thanks for checking out this thread, and hopefully it inspires someone else to try it.

YouTube - No HID's Needed!

YouTube - Silverado Projector Headlights

YouTube - Silverado rear view

YouTube - Matrix projector headlights

Springthing

05-17-2009, 08:50 PM

Thanks for the great write-up. I'm sure this will come in handy in helping someone get courage enough to try this (or parts of) out.

Good job, and looks great.

5speedsilverado

05-21-2009, 08:36 PM

hmm i wonder if it is possible to make the homemade halos so that they will fit in the stock headlights??

TRPLXL2

05-21-2009, 10:44 PM

hmm i wonder if it is possible to make the homemade halos so that they will fit in the stock headlights??

Actually I am going to swap meets to find a set of cheap stock headlights to try it in, I know it will work but you would have to drill two more holes in the back of the headlight to run the wires. You would just have to split the headlight open, and then find a household object that would fit inside and then use it for a template and make some experimental rings. I like the projector headlights now that they work, but If I had to do it again I would at least try a set of OEM one's first. If I buy a set I will post it up on this thread how it goes, but I am on the look out for a set.

5speedsilverado

05-21-2009, 11:03 PM

im gonna try to do it, i just dont want to open up the headlights yet, but i was going to do them with red halos on a switch, just cause they look cool, no function for me

5speedsilverado

06-03-2009, 04:21 PM

hey amy what brand of head lights are those?? i found it easier just to get new head lights, and found these

http://www.k2motor.com/lblhpsiv03jmtm.html

TRPLXL2

06-03-2009, 08:31 PM

Mine are Matrix projector headlights, when I bought mine they were $350 for all four pieces from Sport truck direct. So for you to get all four pieces for $215 is an awesome buy, but the one thing I noticed is they do still have the amber reflector on the side of the headlight, I have never seen a set of projectors where they left the amber marker in the housing like that. I would look around some more for a set without the amber markers in them, but if you are going to change the halo to red then you are going to have to open the headlight anyways. BTW-The black housing actually gives a cleaner look to the halo too, you don't have all of the reflection off the chrome housing.