Cannot figure out how to load torsion bars!

[ippielb]

:grrrrrr: 98% done my lift kit, all i need to do is load my torsion bars... then install my leafs and i'm done!
Can anyone help me? Here's my story,

This is how it looks like right meow
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g79/halfsoldier/torsionbars.jpg

I put on my gear puller, and crank the sucker up, but just not far enough, and when i look at my control arm ball joints it's looking like its going to rip them out, or bend them with that much pressure... Am i doing this wrong? Should i install my keys on the next hex? Will it work? Or will there be not enough room to install them because of the top of the crossmember?

I got a free "something" to the first person to tell me the answer that will help me finish my lift.

[5speedsilverado]

are they the stock keys, or did the kit come with new ones?

[Jimmiee]

You got it right. It will only go on one way. Remember those bars are holding almost a ton of weight and more when the truck is bouncing down the road.

[CarpenterGuy]

theres going to be alot of pressure.

[5speedsilverado]

detailed instructions

First of all make sure you have a floor Jack under the control arm, you want the lower control arm level. (with the floor)

Next, you need to take your gear puller and crank up the key so you can get the bar in to hold it. Then screw in the bolt.

If your puller won't Jack it up that much, try another floor Jack with a 3/8's ratchet extension stuck between the Jack and the dimple in the key. That should do it.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the key will only go in one way, another notch might be too much.....

[X-Hibition]

Ippi,

Nice picture. 5speed's suggestion sounds interesting, balancing an extension against a floor jack and the torsion bar key... That gun is loaded and ready to fire.

I did this install last weekend,and if you haven't seen this post take a peek:

http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28024

I left the front tires on, jacked up the front end and supported it on the front crossmember and side frame using jack stands. Using the gear puller I lifted up on the key so I could remove the adjusting bolt saddle and then took the pressure off of the key so I could then slide the bar forward and remove the key. Installation was just the reverse of that. The key is indexed so it can only go in one way.

If you look at the key there are two pockets, one for the adjusting bolt and one for an unloading tool. In this situation you are using the gear puller in the smaller slot which you can not access with the key in place on the vehicle. This pocket is on an angle on the key which the gear puller can engage but trying to get a 3/8 entension in there and have it hold is why some tools are called "Widow-makers". Not trying to start a fight, just want to keep everyone safe.

[ippielb]

When i tried to use a gear puller, a really old one, i could crank it up, but still just a little not enough! The key was flush with the slot for the brace. I put my tire on the driver side, so that when i try again my tire will take the force of the torsion bars, not the ball joints. I put the key on the hex side that puts it up way higher, but it wont even touch the bolt when it's cranked in all the way, so i guess i have to crank it more with the gear puller. I'm just scared that when i crank up the gear puller, the keys go up, and put the hole on an angle, and the gear puller goes on an angle too, i took a wood clamp to hold the fingers tightly on the crossmember. I'm just tired of working on my truck, it's been a week. I want it done...

[X-Hibition]

I used (actually went out and bought it) the same gear puller that was used in the instructions in my other post. Lots of anti-seize on the threads and a lot of pressure since mine is a 3/4 ton. Scary noises, but nothing snapped and I got in done in just over an hour. That was getting out tools to clean-up.

Not trying to sell you any tools (Craftsman Club was $10.00 off on the puller) but this will give you an apples and apples comparison. My key was aftermarket also, Suspension Maxx, so this should work for your rig.

[adampaul1964]

Loading aftermarket keys is a scary business without the proper tools, I tried to use a 7 ton craftsman puller when I did mine, unloading went fine but loading the aftermarket keys just seemed like it wasn't going to work without something snapping/breaking or hurting! I ended up going to the local dealer (old high school buddy is the service manager) and borrowing the G.M. unloading tool. With the tool I got them loaded up in no time with no screeching of protesting metal. Dont know what else to tell you other than good luck!

[X-Hibition]

No argument that having the proper GM tool is the way to go. I didn't have access to that so I did it using the gear puller. Make noises? Yes. Bend the crossmember? Yes. Scare me? Yes.

Looking under my Sub today I couldn't believe how much the crossmember deformed. 3/4 ton... I'm glad I'm done and very glad I survived.

[adampaul1964]

Yeah, when I had the puller on mine the cross member started to bend which is the main reason I gave up and went after the proper tool. The way it fits over the cross member and the stud fits into the hole in the top it takes less effort to load the keys.

[ippielb]

All i know is, i have aftermarket keys to put on my dads truck, and if in the future i want to get keys to give it that little more, i'm going to buy a tool, so i can do future trucks too. But i'm definitely going to keep this truck, as long as i can. Check out the picture of my truck in the members rides threads

[X-Hibition]

Suspension Maxx does make an unloader tool; I know it would have been safer to use it but I never thought I would use it again. Having done it, and survived, I may look at it again. I don't know the cost of the OE tool but maybe this might not be a bad investment.