From other forums I've been searching, it appears that IF I pull the lifters, I should be able to see oil at high volume pushing through those passages. Since I've had no (apparant) ill effects at the crank, and I seem to be getting pressure at the base of the distributor, I am going to start down there. I can only imagine I got some kind of crap in the engine during the original intake gasket swap.
It's getting dark and still snowing here, so I'll try to get to that during the week.
My garage is unheated and full of other crap (quads, motorcycle, engines, transmission...) so I'm working out in front of the garage... making weather a major PITA
Just wanted to throw out a quick update-
The truck is not totaly back together, but I pulled the lifters and pushrods and checked oil flow... the stuff that was in there was like mud so I drained most of it and dumped in some parts wash fluid to thin it out. I cleaned out all the lifters and push rods, then ran the oil pump with the cleaned lifters and the parts wash fluid mixture... now I was getting the mixture out the top of the lifters. I pulled all the lifters and cleaned them again, drained the "mixture", pulled/drained the filter. I put the nasty filter back in the drained engine... reinstalled the lifters and pushrods... and put in 3qts 5w-30 oil. I ran the oil pump (all with a correct primer) until the oil came up to the rockers, which it was NOT doing before.
Readjusted the valves and cleaned all the gasket surfaces and now just waiting for a new Edelbrock intake gasket.
At this point, is should just be assembly, but I am going to check for oil while cranking the engine once I get the intake and distributor on, then change the filter and oil before actually starting it... and get the oil/filter changed shortly after that (at a shop... local place has a special that's cheaper than just buying 5qts of oil).
Just to close this out -
I wound up replacing the engine. After pulling it, tearing it down and sending everything to the machine shop for estimates, a new GM engine was only about $400 more than JUST the machine shop work. I suspect the engine flush after the mixing of anti-freeze and oil caused the problem, though I followed the instructions... I had only used engine flush once before and it went without incident, but I've learned my (expensive) lesson. NO ENGINE FLUSH. Internally, it spun the #2 main and 2 of the connecting rod bearings. The macine shop esitmated an align bore on the block and replacement for one of the heads that was cracked at an exhaust valve, as well as basic rebuild machine work.
New engine was $2022 delivered, with no core charge...
I do plan to be back on the road long before the first snow, though I bought a spare truck, just in case. :-)
Thanks to all who replied on this. Obviously I was hoping it was not as serious as it turned out to be.
I have always been an anti-flush person. When I worked in the garage we had 2 people insist on a flush. Both times the motor blew. One time a rod blew out of the side of the block during the idle time that the instructions called for. The other time within a week of the flush. My nephew had a 08 Ranger, a few months ago he took it to a quick oil change place. They sold a flush to him and changed his oil. He started driving home, got about 5 miles and the motor started knocking. He stopped at a light and decided he better pull over. The light turned green, he hit the gas to move to the side of the road and a rod blew thru the block.
Originally Posted by BHatton