One more thing I've noted is I may need to put a jumper wire between a bolt holding the filter onto the angle aluminum and the frame. The temp sender needs a good electrical ground, and I may have broken that ground path by painting the bracket. We'll see how that one goes.
I mostly finished the install, but was 2 hose clamps short. So, it's put off until I can pick up some more hose clamps, hopefully tommorow evening.
In light of unplanned new funds, I reworked the transmission filter housing fittings to remove the T-fitting and temperature sender. The sender will be installed in a deep transmission pan. So, the filter housing now only has 2 1/2" NPT to 3/8" barb fittings. I installed the filter housing on the passenger frame rail silghtly behind the cooler fittings on the transmission to simplify hose routing. Unfortuately, I could not put the bracket on the top part of the frame rail, but there was a clearance issue with the fuel lines, so I put it below. Here's a picture of the filter housing installed:
I also ran the rest of the hoses, and here's a pic of what the cooler area looks like with the hoses installed and the hose routing under the front bumper:
Well, yesterday I put the finishing touches on the cooler setup. Put the 2 final hoses on, and started warming up the truck looking for leaks. So far, the only leak I've found is the actual transmission filter I installed, and it's just a tiny seep. I suspect I overtightened it and it's leaking, either that or it's not tight enough. Next weekend I should be swapping out the transmisssion pan and doing a fluid swap, so I'll take care of that leak then. I'll also get some pics of the final install and my hose routing. I'd say it looks pretty good, and I hope it sure cools well.
I somewhat test fit the grill on a couple days ago, and I may have a slight clearance issue with the hoses at the B&M cooler. I didn't fully install it because it's a pain with the bent up front bumper, but I'll sort out the clearance issues.
Did you use regular house hold brass pipes for the sender unit T? I plan to do a set up similar to yours in the near future, but I plant to use two 13,000 BTU B&M coolers that are very slim and allow me to install cooling fans over them.
I will be using the same Autometer gauge and remote filter. I just am wondering what fittings I may need. I know that my tranny is different than yours (4L60e), but there must be some parallels.
I did use regular brass fittings. I heard that they may not take the heat cycles very well, but I've had pretty good luck so far. The fittings in the transmission case are pipe thread to hose barb fittings. I don't remember the diameters, but the dimensions between the 700R4 in my transmission and the 4L60E should be the same as it's the same transmission, just electronically controller. I also used rubber hose and hose clamps to make up all the lines. However, that's probably going to change in the near future. I think I am going to switch out the lines for the stainless braided lines and AN fittings that are commonly used in the racing and off-road world.
Yesterday I towed my camper for the first time with the suburban. The 700R4 did fine with all my mods with the exception of a hose clamp on the out side of the transmission cooler line at the transmission case was loose and dripping ATF at a decent rate. The transmission stayed no higher than 150 degrees, but the ambient temp was in the 40s and I could only tow at 45-50mph due to sway.
Cooling the transmission with those 2 coolers in tandem with the stock cooler should provide plenty of cooling for most operations. The one thing I don't like with your plan is the addition of another 2 fittings that could potentially leak. The Automater gauge is quite nice and quite attractive in my opinion. I put the temp sender in the temp sender bung of my deep transmission pan even though I was originally planning on putting it in that T fitting at the external transmission filter. The one thing I have to advise if you go the T-fitting route is to not put the T higher than the rest of the line even though that makes more sense to keep it high and out of the way. Putting it higher could make it sit in an air pocket and not read correctly.
I am most likely going to not go through the radiator cooler. If you think about it running ATF through the cooler isn't really cooling it if the engine is running at normal operating temp, 195+, it is already heating you fluid not truly cooling it. and same vice versa if the tranny is running hot it will warm up your coolant which you are trying to cool down.
I plan on getting a B&M deep pan so I may put the sender there is it fits if not I will mount it on the out line on the tranny. I just remembered I have a blog entry on what my plan id with all info and links to products.
I most definitely will have many questions about how to do this because I'm replacing the whole tranny cooler system. My current lines are rusty and need to be replaced.
2 things to think about when making the decision to not run the ATF through the radiator. First, the ratings for the auxiliary coolers are based on the fact that you are adding the cooler to the loop, not replacing the existing cooler in the radiator with the aux cooler. Second, having heat exchange between the antifreeze from the motor and the ATF in the transmission is actually beneficial to the operation of the transmission. If the fluid is too cool, the transmission will not perform at optimum ability and damage could occur. That said, I am running through both the radiator cooler and my aux cooler to try to keep everything optimum.
Ok, so I should still use the factory radiator cooler. I will still replace the line to the cooler because it is rigid and rusted to heck. Should I keep the factory engine oil cooler routed to the radiator?