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Thread: Leaking... again...
10-04-2012, 08:54 PM #11
I really need help with this because this will be my first major repair on the truck DIY style. I'm also wondering if there is anyone nearby that may be able to help out or get me access to a lift. My main question is moving the tranny. How do I do it? Everything else seems straight forward except the tranny removal/moving part.
1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.
Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door
10-04-2012, 10:36 PM #12
I don't think that you actually have to remove the trans. You should be able to unbolt it and slide it back enough. Last time I did it I used a floor jack with a piece of wood across the top. I jacked it up so it was centered on the trans pan, then take the bolts out and roll it back a little (you will need help with this). I suggest that you go pick up a manual at a parts store so you have some guidance. From what I remember, you have to remove the bolts from the flywheel that hold the torque converter to the motor and all the bell housing bolts.
1995 Silverado 4x4
6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge
2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)
10-05-2012, 05:20 AM #13
Thanks @Pikey, I do have a manual for the truck its just very vague because it covers several models. I will try what u said, but do I need to remove bolts on the tranny mount to move the transmission back?
10-05-2012, 05:28 PM #14
Bought the oil pan gasket kit, rear main seal, oil, and filter.
The pan gasket is fairly intense its over a 1/4 inch thick and doesn't need the RTV sealant. The pan kit came with filter to block adapter gaskets as well, some nifty pan holders, and some instructions.
As always I got the Fram Tough Guard filter, but did not get the high mileage oil just the regular Pennzoil Synthetic.
Here's what I got.
The kit opened up.
The oil and filter. The extra bottle is for emergencies/right now because I'm still leaking oil like a mother.
The pan gasket, rear main seal, and filter adapters.
Snap-on pan holders should make this a lot easier.
Last edited by Conlan Rose; 10-05-2012 at 06:05 PM.
10-06-2012, 08:36 PM #15
Ok tomorrow morning the truck goes under the knife and gets fixed. If any one else has any advice please do tell now so I have time to read it and such. Thank everyone for the help I will take pictures as I go.
Last edited by Conlan Rose; 10-07-2012 at 10:45 PM.
10-06-2012, 10:17 PM #16
10-07-2012, 01:32 PM #17
I can't get the front drive shaft off at all the bolts on the t-case side just wont come off any advice.
10-07-2012, 02:00 PM #18
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Can you take it off at the front diff U-joint and leave it attached to the T case?
10-07-2012, 02:22 PM #19
No it doesn't seem to come off at only the front I tried that first.
10-07-2012, 04:03 PM #20
The main thing is having it not turn well working on it please some one help i need it now the truck isnt in driveable condition currently and needs to be fixed.
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