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Thread: Leaking... again...
10-07-2012, 08:21 PM #21
Its been three hours and still to no avail the pan bolts are off and transmission inspection plate is also unbolted but they can't go anywhere. Tried to do it with the 4x4 on and still can't apply enough torque to remove the bolts. When applying force the whole truck moves not the bolts.... I don't know what to do the truck can't move has no oil in it and its not worth the effort to bolt everything back up if it will still just leak everywhere.
Last edited by Conlan Rose; 10-07-2012 at 11:44 PM.
1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 202,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.
Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door
10-07-2012, 10:57 PM #22
Ok, so not the most successful day in my life but pretty good, only need two trips to Autozone(one to go buy two tools and second to return the wrong one of the two I tried). But sadly I have failed my job so far, the pan bolts are off, the starter is removed, the transmission support struts are removed, the torque converted panel bolts are off, the front U-joint on the front drive shaft is off, but the T case side of the front drive shaft is still firmly on there and won't budge.
With out the front shaft off I can't remove the torque converter panel nor the oil pan, yes I tried just moving them around to see if one will slide past the other, notta. I'm really stuck right now and don't know what to do. I feel like I just don't have the right tools or I'm doing something wrong. I've tried everything I can do to get the U-joint bolts off but they just don't wanna move and with the 4x4 engaged and tranny in neutral instead of helping me get them off I just end up moving around my 5,400lb truck.
Tomorrow I will first try some WD40 to help loosen those bolts, if that doesn't work I will need to find a friend with an impact wrench, and if none of those things work I'll just install new pan gasket add the oil and bring truck to school where I can get it on the lift and have more tools at the ready.
Here's some pics of where I am.
This is the factory started was covered in gunk and oil but I cleaned it up looks good for 17 years on the road.
I don't think this skid plate has ever been removed. It has a 1/2" of crud on it and I had to get special star driver for it.
I'm kinda angry that i have to remove the filter to block adapter because I had just replaced those gaskets two or three months ago. Good thing the oil pan gasket came with new ones.
I'm sorry I'm just to lazy right now to caption all the pics they are self explanatory.
Last edited by Conlan Rose; 10-07-2012 at 11:15 PM. Reason: Add more info
10-08-2012, 12:18 AM #23
Can you drop the exhaust from the driverside manifold? would that give you enough room to swing the driveshaft down so you can get to the bolts?
1995 Silverado 4x4
6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge
2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)
10-08-2012, 08:02 AM #24
Nope because my exhaust is one piece only place I can unbolt is at the manifold no where else.
10-08-2012, 08:49 AM #25
Have you tried heating the bolts? Not red hot, just a little.
10-08-2012, 08:55 AM #26
Don't have a torch but I'll see what I can rig up to heat them. I do have some electric heating fans that work quite well. I'll use that and WD-40. I will start working again around 9:30ish so any idea until the please share. BUt still thanks for all the help @Pikey without your insight and what @moogvo has told me I'd be screwed.
10-08-2012, 08:58 AM #27
I don't know that electric fans will do it. You just want heat where the bolt threads into the yoke. Not the entire yoke. You don't want to start melting seals. You might be surprised how easily they come out with some heat.
10-08-2012, 09:10 AM #28
I'm trying to contact some of my friends that also work on cars to see if they have a torch and a ratcheting breaker bar. Yesterday when working I got so scared that I sheared off one of the bolts because the extension I was using twisted funny then popped off violently.
10-08-2012, 09:18 AM #29
Getting that broken bolt out is not going to be fun. After you get it all apart you might be better off buying a new or used yoke and putting it on.
10-08-2012, 09:22 AM #30
Forgot to include "almost" luckily the socket just slid off the head of the bolt and didn't damage it or I would be truly ****ed.
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