Results 41 to 50 of 110
Thread: Leaking... again...
10-08-2012, 02:24 PM #41
Sorry that you are having such a hard time with it. If you lived in my area I would have no problem stopping by to help.
1995 Silverado 4x4
6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge
2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)
10-08-2012, 02:31 PM #42
I know any of you guys would.
1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 202,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.
Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door
10-08-2012, 03:25 PM #43
Hello, sir. Please let me first apologize for not reading through all the posts in this thread. I have had to skim them due to a lack of time to read them all today.
I completely empathize with you in your situation of oil leaking. Let me introduce myself to you. My name is Mike and I hate oil leaks. I know you said that you don't so much mind the leak but for where it is and what it is doing to your cross pipe. I have paid for some very spendy repairs of oil leaks on my 94 Chevy truck because I don't like anything leaking. My truck is 4 wheel drive as yours appears to be. I have a 454 engine, so that part is different than yours.
I don't have the benefit of looking at your rig from underneath with it on a lift. This is really the best way to make an initial assessment. However, I would start this process with something much less invasive than taking apart your oil pan. And let me preface this by saying I have owned a lot of cars and have had oil leaks on all of them except maybe four cars (all were made by Nissan). So this advice is based on 38 years plus of car ownership.
I start by cleaning off the engine, drive shafts, exhaust, frame and tie rod. Sometimes do this once and then again after the oil begins to leak again. Only then do I look for the leak or have a technician look for it. I prefer to use a mixture of hot water, trisodium phosphate (about two cups per two gallons of water), some dish soap or Simple Green, in a garden sprayer. Works the best to clean grease and washes off easily. My last leak was found by a technician and it was not easy to find. It turned out to be the rear intake manifold seal. Someplace I would never look. It leaked all the way down around the back side of the engine and went onto the cross pipe. We suspected a valve cover gasket first, since those do leak, but after further viewing, it turned out to be the rear intake manifold seal.
I have had leaks elsewhere, but my point is that so far I have exactly one car that had oil leaking from ONLY the oil pan gasket area. Only one. It was a car I restored and I had to retorque the bolts on the oil pan. My truck is 18 years old, has the OEM oil pan gasket, and despite several oil leaks, none of them have come from the oil pan and the oil pan has been covered in oil more than once. I have had the valve covers leaking oil and replaced that seal twice so far. The rear manifold seal has also so far been replaced twice (they have to replace the entire gasket but the seal at the rear is a separate piece.
I have also had oil leak onto this area that came from the transfer case seal, and had that replaced too.1994 Chevy K2500 Silverado, 454 (modified), original owner.
And other vehicles and toys.
"...If you can meet with triumph and disaster
And treat those two imposters just the same;
...you'll be a Man, my son!" Rudyard Kipling
10-09-2012, 12:05 PM #44
Sorry for taking so long to respond I worked long in to the night and got very far. Got slowed down by the cross over pipe but got it out of the way. When moving the front diff we broke a jack some how and spent an hour fixing it. Now every thing just needs to be replaced and the rear main seal removed. @The Heater it was easy to tell it was the rear main seal you could see the oil leaking from it. I will post pics later because I'm not at my personal computer with all the pics. Will be finishing up today and tomorrow because I have school so only can work part of the day.
10-09-2012, 01:52 PM #45
how di you end up getting the front driveshaft off?
10-09-2012, 02:22 PM #46
About half a can of wd-40 and marvel penetrating oil. And a lot of arm strength using a ratchet with a pole as a breaker bar.
10-09-2012, 02:52 PM #47
Sorry that you have had this many problems. I am sure most of us have had repairs that at every corner something went wrong and all know the feeling of just wanting to set it on fire and put in an insurance claim (ok maybe thats just me). I am glad you seem to have made some progress with it. heres to hoping for a quick reinstall.David
2004 Silverado 2500 Crew Cab 4x4, AMSOIL EA air filter, Granatelli MAF sensor, Throttle body spacer, Magnaflow exhaust (true dual to 2 in 1 out muffler), 6" ProComp lift (add a leaf and 5" superlift rear block), Bilstein shocks, 35's (Cooper Disoverer ST) and 4.10 gears, Rhino Liner, EGRUSA fender Flares and widow visors, extended stainless steel brake lines, firestone airbags w/onboard air compressor, Pioneer Avic X940BT navigation, Accel backup camera.
1960 Land Rover Series II 88
2002 Nissan Altima (My Commuter)
2013 Toyota Avalon Limited (Wife's Car)
NRA Life Member
10-09-2012, 06:38 PM #48
Well another setback was breaking the extension... And this all would've been done really fast if I had a proper lift or jack stands, air tools, and my friend helping the whole time.Also we misread part of the instructions and couldn't figure out why the front diff wouldn't move. We removed the wrong bolt so it wasn't swinging properly out of the way. Tonight if I can get him over again we're gonna move the front diff properly and get that oil pan out.
BTW here are the pics.
Front drive shaft. The one side is really tight and doesn't wanna move.
With the drive shaft removed so much more room.
Trying to get the exhaust crossover off. We only needed on side off to make it work, then we pulled the pipe back enough for the torque converter cover to come off.
With the cover off. Now just need the oil pan off and move the tranny to get the rear main then its time for reassembly.
Rolled the truck inside, its just alittle tight.
- - - Updated - - -
Hopefully all will go according to plan from now on, but won't have a truck most of the week.
Last edited by Conlan Rose; 10-09-2012 at 06:41 PM. Reason: fix spelling and grammer
10-10-2012, 04:14 PM #49
So how do you get the transmission to not move when removing the flywheel to converter bolts.
10-10-2012, 04:38 PM #50
I always put the trans in park then put it in neutral to rotate it around.
By bowtie11 in forum General Chevy & GM Tech QuestionsReplies: 7Last Post: 11-12-2011, 08:39 PM
By dcriffle in forum GM PowertrainReplies: 7Last Post: 02-10-2010, 03:42 PM
By IThurstSObad in forum General Chevy & GM Tech QuestionsReplies: 5Last Post: 09-07-2009, 10:36 AM
By dutzowmo in forum General Chevy & GM Tech QuestionsReplies: 1Last Post: 01-20-2009, 04:18 PM
By 95CTburb19 in forum GM PowertrainReplies: 4Last Post: 01-31-2008, 07:33 PM