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Thread: Leaking... again...
10-10-2012, 04:02 PM #51
Tried that still moved. With the truck in the run position and battery reconnected.
Will have to put off working on truck until saturday will work until like 2:30 then and finish up on sunday.
I will post pics later tonight.
Last edited by Conlan Rose; 10-10-2012 at 04:42 PM.
1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.
Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door
10-10-2012, 09:01 PM #52
Here's the pictures.
This pic really shows how bad the sagging is. The rear end is really low.
Torque converter cover. Was covered in sludge and gunk until I cleaned it with water and WD-40.
Skid plates had to clean the one that protects the transfer case it was really dirty.
Cleaning all the bolts and nuts I've removed to help protect them and make install easy.
The oil pan looks great after cleaning out the small amount of sludge in the pan. The pump screen was completely clean and the crank case and shaft look great will take pics later, because I didn't today. I just need to make sure the pan is flat and not distorted.
Its so shiny used a little bit of oil to help clean it and make it look better.
I still need help getting the flywheel to converter bolts off, because even in park the flywheel spins and I can't get it off, which means I won't be able to move the tranny, therefore I'm SOL and can't replace the rear main.
10-12-2012, 07:09 AM #53
So, thanks to some insight from @moogvo I now know how to keep the flywheel from spinning while removing the bolts. Tomorrow the last steps for removal will happen then its all about reassembly. Will have pics as I go tomorrow.
10-13-2012, 05:54 PM #54
The transmission doesn't move at all with the bolts removed.... how is that possible?
10-13-2012, 07:01 PM #55
did you take the rear drive shaft off?
1995 Silverado 4x4
6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge
2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)
10-13-2012, 08:10 PM #56
No, do you have to?
10-13-2012, 08:21 PM #57
You might be able to budge the transmission a little but you will have to remove the rear driveshaft if your removing the transmission completely. If its not budging be sure you have all the bell housing bolts removed. Theres always a bolt hiding somewhere.
2011 Silverado CrewCab 5.3L*Ram Air Look Cowl Induction Reflexxion Hood*6" Pro Comp Lift*Flowmaster Dual exhaust*Perfect Launch Rear Diff. Cover*Led Smoke Taillights*L.E.D.Smoke 3rd Brakelight*60" L.E.D. Tailgate Bar*Rearview Mirror Reverse Camera and Sensors*Smoke Headlight Covers*Front Bumper Grill Insert*Deezee Black Alum. Diamond Rail covers*20" Ultra Motorsports Rims wrapped with 35.5"B.F. Goodrich Tires*Inchannel Raingaurds*CAI*Bullydog GT Tuner*Alpine Amp*Boss 6x9's*Boston Acoustic Subs*Terrantula Tweeters*Custom Sub box*Red Led Interior Accents*5% Ultimacool duo tint rear window and doors, 20% front doors*Custom Vinyl Graphics*Demolded*Debadged*Painted drums and calipers*
Future Mods Include: Custom Interior Hydrographics, Electronic Rollup Toneau Cover, 4.56 Gears, Painted rear bumper
10-13-2012, 08:40 PM #58
Ok, here's a semi full write up of today.
Started day with high spirits and tummy full of D&D same with my friend Brian who helped out.
Removed the converter to flywheel bolts no problem, yes I marked them.
Took pics and began soaking of second set of bolts in WD40 to clean them.
Tried to fix my jack but made it more broken so had Brian run to his house to get his.
Used his jack to support tranny as we removed the 6 engine to transmission bolts (there is six right?). One bolt took us 3 hours because we couldn't get on it. Had to go out and get a ratcheting box wrench.
Finally with all out tried to move tranny but notta. Moved jack up and down but didn't budge.
Got dark so had to get the truck back inside and put three bolts back on the tranny to keep it in place for the night.
Throughout this we took turns cleaning the skid plates and getting to eat and such.
Was a pain getting the upper bell housing bolts because had to remove the air intake and lay on the engine.
I'll post pics soon just need to download them.
10-13-2012, 10:15 PM #59
These are just pics as I went a lot are just for showing the condition of the motor. Some are showing what was removed so i remember what to put back and where.
Oil pump screen super clean
These four pics two above two below show the dry rot on one of the A/c lines. I think theres metal under the rubber but still its really bad.
So many bolts so little time. And yes i do know where they all go just not as sure on where all the washers go.
10-13-2012, 10:29 PM #60
More pics couldn't upload them all in one shot.
Is that one of the possible mounting points for a block heater this is on the pass side
Cross over pipe off
Not sure if you can see it but in the center is another place that I think is for mounting a block heater.
Clean skid plates and splash guard.
Still even more bolts but these's are for the oil pan, adapter and tranny
Gross bucket and rubbermate that were used for cleaning bolts and skid plates.
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