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Thread: Leaking... again...
09-27-2012, 03:33 PM #1
So after driving home from school I did my normal routine of parking on the street, but the song I was listening to was one of my favorites so I left the truck there idling and waited for the song to finish and rolled up my windows and normal stuff before getting out. Once I got out I was welcomed to the sad, familiar smell of oil burning on my exhaust crossover pipe.
I haven't had this smell for about 2 months since I replaced my oil filter adapter gaskets. It some times feels like once one thing is fixed with this truck another hidden problem comes up.
Ok, the main thing for me isn't the oil leak unless I find its major, will have to check that this weekend. I can live with a slight leak, oil is cheap, but the exhaust pipe that is being rusted and damaged by this leak is not cheap. This is because I have dual exhaust from the engine not the single like most trucks, so my crossover pipe isn't easy to find. I'm going to rig up a kinda heat shield, just was wondering what the best idea for one is. My idea is use two u-bolts and a piece of thin sheet metal to protect that area.
Last edited by Conlan Rose; 09-27-2012 at 04:55 PM. Reason: add pics
1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.
Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door
09-27-2012, 11:25 PM #2
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- Mar 2007
- Grand Prairie, Texas
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It's probably just me but from looking at your picture I'd say your leak is the back edge of the oilpan gasket or the rear crank shaft seal.
Oil corroding the pipe? Cant say that I've ever seen oil corrode exhaust pipes, you sure it isnt burned oil leaving deposits on the pipe?
09-27-2012, 11:34 PM #3
1995 Silverado 4x4
6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge
2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)
09-30-2012, 02:47 PM #4
Sorry for taking so long to respond back I'm not getting email notifications. Yah it most likely is the pan but it's a pain to remove because you need to get the front diff out of the way to drop the pan and to replace the rear seals you need to move tranny which will be a pain most likely. Stinks no one on the site lives by me to help out and my friends are idiots.
Btw I'm not sure why the front drive shaft is coated in oil, yes when I change the oil is flows on to the u-joint but thats it and I havn't done an oil change since august. What's on the pipe is burnt oil but I just dont like oil burning on the pipe. Also around the pipe where its burned it looks like the coating is worn away, but this is hard to tell with out getting under the truck.
Also the shield could be fabrocated so it shields from heat not just random leaks.
Here an old post from under the truck it does seem that oil is being sprayed all over or was at one point.
Note: notice the oil/grime on the starter, tranny cooler lines and wires.
Last edited by Conlan Rose; 09-30-2012 at 06:12 PM.
10-01-2012, 02:48 PM #5
The leak is getting worse after a longer highway trip this weekend. Its now almost a small stream of oil this cant be good..... Just wondering whats the easiest way to replace the gaskets or at least a temp fix to get through the week until sunday when I have time to fix it.
10-01-2012, 08:41 PM #6
Is it possible to remove the lower transmission bell housing to more easily see where the leak is coming from. Also I really would like advice on the how to do it, because even though my repair manual tells me how theres minimal pictures and isn't from a person explaining possible problems.
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