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Thread: Leaking... again...
10-27-2012, 12:00 AM #101
Audio of the truck currently
Once audio of before loads comparison should be easy, just ignore the belt squeaking.
1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 202,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.
Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door
10-27-2012, 12:08 AM #102
You would have to clarify what you mean by "zero oil" in terms of how long you observed that pressure reading ( I assume that is what you are referring to, because if you drove it home with no oil pressure you definitely damaged something in the motor if there were really no pressure).
In my first post I indicated I thought it was worth it to check your rear intake manifold seal. It will leak a lot of oil and yes, it ends up on your cross pipe. Mine did.
I doubt, however, that a mere oil leak in a rear intake seal would affect the vacuum seal on the intake port gasket at one cylinder. Usually the rear seal leaks and the rest of the intake is torqued down fine and the seal on the intake ports is fine.
10 degrees higher temperature is not much, but it does make me wonder why now? Could be you are just overcautious. If you want to sniff around for an issue, I suggest you start by putting your finger under the water pump and find the weep hole. If you find water at the weep hole, your inner seal is bad on the water pump and it has to be replaced. I had this problem on my 454. It will run a little hot, and use water if you are driving on a trip somewhere in hot weather. Check your water level in the overflow container. Mark the outside with some masking tape, then check weekly while you drive it around to see how much if any you are losing.1994 Chevy K2500 Silverado, 454 (modified), original owner.
And other vehicles and toys.
"...If you can meet with triumph and disaster
And treat those two imposters just the same;
...you'll be a Man, my son!" Rudyard Kipling
10-27-2012, 12:10 AM #103
Your second video seems to give it more justice that it is missing. Really can't here much in the first. Start with the basics like your plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor if these things haven't been changed in a while and eliminate the normal maintenance items first. Also I can not see NOT having oil in it while it was sitting (not running) for any extended length of time is your problem. I have heard an engine tick a little or even more of a slight knock when its been sitting for more than a month or so but it usually goes away within a minute or so.
2011 Silverado CrewCab 5.3L*Ram Air Look Cowl Induction Reflexxion Hood*6" Pro Comp Lift*Flowmaster Dual exhaust*Perfect Launch Rear Diff. Cover*Led Smoke Taillights*L.E.D.Smoke 3rd Brakelight*60" L.E.D. Tailgate Bar*Rearview Mirror Reverse Camera and Sensors*Smoke Headlight Covers*Front Bumper Grill Insert*Deezee Black Alum. Diamond Rail covers*20" Ultra Motorsports Rims wrapped with 35.5"B.F. Goodrich Tires*Inchannel Raingaurds*CAI*Bullydog GT Tuner*Alpine Amp*Boss 6x9's*Boston Acoustic Subs*Terrantula Tweeters*Custom Sub box*Red Led Interior Accents*5% Ultimacool duo tint rear window and doors, 20% front doors*Custom Vinyl Graphics*Demolded*Debadged*Painted drums and calipers*
Future Mods Include: Custom Interior Hydrographics, Electronic Rollup Toneau Cover, 4.56 Gears, Painted rear bumper
10-27-2012, 07:03 AM #104
- - - Updated - - -
10-27-2012, 01:02 PM #105
I was thinking my battery was removed from the truck for almost 2 weeks could that hurt the computer? Also when it was connected I was shifting gears/4x2 into 4x4 and a lot of sensors and electronics were not connected. I know it needs the battery to store log data and codes, could it also effect how the truck runs. It is getting stronger as in acceleration and power are getting back to normal, but still sounds like crap. Sounds like a really beat up ford or dodge.
10-28-2012, 12:23 AM #106
Wah the good plugs I want are sold out on amazon.
10-28-2012, 02:10 PM #107
I have used the OEM AC plugs since I bought the truck new. Never a problem with them, they work great, through all my modifications to the motor.
10-28-2012, 04:41 PM #108
The ones I'm getting are the latest AC Delco plugs for my truck. They are: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
The original seller ran out, but amazon has them in stock. Might have to wait until after hurricane to order tho.
10-28-2012, 05:09 PM #109
Chevy dealer where you live should have them in stock or can get them in one or two days from a distribution center. I know some think you pay more through the dealer for parts, but honestly, I have bought a lot of parts from my dealer and they give me a big discount on all my parts since way back. If you buy regularly from them, they will reward you.
No power to ECU via battery does not affect what the ECU does. There are some new cars/SUVs from Europe that require the dealer to reset something if you disconnect your battery or it dies (totally stupid, example is the upscale Land Rover SUV), but yours has no such issue.
10-28-2012, 05:28 PM #110
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