Results 1 to 5 of 5
Thread: P/S pump replacement
01-05-2008, 12:17 PM #1
P/S pump replacement
i have to say 1st off i am sorry i do not have a full set of pictures, but with what i have anyone can do this in a 1-2 hours time. We had a huge storm comming in and it was getting into the 30s so i wanted it done ASAP.
well we had a small leak in the P/S system for awhile and i just kept adding new fluid until the sounds and lack of power steering at times got to me. this is an easy task if you get the 2 sets of tools i recomened.
here is the before View. i got the typical fluid on and around the pump and steering box.
here is a closer view of the steering pump. you need to remove the serp belt (i did the idler and tensioner pulleys so mine was off already. this picture was done before any work was completed.
if you want to do this correctly get a set of these flare or line wrenches. they are great for ny hose connection, brake or tranny ines without messing up the nut.
the next must have tool to complete this task is a pulley removal tool. (i got my 1st set from Harbor Freight for under $10. this is good a few uses, but i had a friend "Borrow" mine and it is MIA so i got a better one.
1993 4X4 Suburban
many other toys as well
01-05-2008, 12:27 PM #2
Here is the kit opened. it allows you to remove and install pressed on pulleys (ford, chevy, dodge,....) there is easy to follow instructions on what and how to use this tool.
i picked up the new parts at NAPA Auto. There are 2 hoses a pressure and return line (you do not need to replace if yours is good. I swapped mine out since i just passed the 312,000 mile mark). The hose part numbers are 7-2427 and 7-2434. the pump was a reman for $55 (i got the hydro boost pump as it has alittle more pressure than the standard p/s pump) the core was $65 so i took a bad pump with me. these are very common and good pump i use them on other projects so i had a few cores around)too add life to the pump i got a new filter and fluid as well.
this is a cheap insurance policy for a new pump and it cost $1.50 so real cheap.
i picked up a gallon of fluid -you might not need this much but i was not going to go looking for some after i dtarted the task.
01-05-2008, 12:45 PM #3
and last look at the new parts.
here we go remove the serp belt
remove the return line from the p/s pump. i could not get to the pressure line easy so i left it on for now. since i was going with new lines i removed the lines from the steering box as well. there is a plastic cover that slides over the connections, just slide it up the column.
remove the pulley and the 3 1/2 bolts on the front of the pump housing. i could not get to the rear 2 15mm nuts
so i removed the hole mount -1 bolt on the alt and 2 nuts on the exhaust manifold studs. the pump will come right out. i removed the bracket and studs in the rear of the P/S pump and installed on the new pump. i installed the new o-rings on the pressure line added a few drops of fluid so they were not dry and installed it on the pump. the reinstall the pump and bracket reinstall the 2 exhaust nuts and alt bolt leaving loose untill you install the 3 front 1/2 bolts. once all bolts are in place tighten all the bolts.
now install the pulley (this is easy with the correct tool) you tighen untill you feel the tool bottom out on the shaft of the pulley.
now install and oil the o-ring on the steering box side. (i just used power sterring fluid).
you might feel it getting tight then real loose this is ok tighten to 20-25 pouns of pressure.
i installed the old return line on the steering box and put the end that normally goes to the pump into a 2 litter bottle. i then reinstalled the serp belt and filled the p/s pump to the top of the resevor. i then started the motor and counted to 3 (using the 1-1000-2-1000-3-1000 timing) then refilled the p/s pump and looked at the catch bottle i repeated until the fluid comming out was the same coloer as what i put in (4Xs refilling is all it took) this cleans out the crud from the steering box).
next i removed the old return and plastic bottle and installed the new filter in the pump side of the return hose. i then installed the hose and filled the p/s pump to the correct level.
i started the motro and looked for leaks. there were none so i slide the steering box cover back into its location and turned the steering wheel lock-to-lock 4 times (this works out the air bubbles) i then took for a test drive---no more sounds and wines and it is great......no on to the nex project........mike
01-05-2008, 03:03 PM #4
Another awsome writeup would it be easier to put this in a adobe pdf format ?04 Tahoe LT 5.3L stock MSD 8.5mm Wires
Gigbson Duels Straight Exhaust, Parrot 3100 Bluetooth
K&N 77 Series CAI, Sirius Radio
De-badged, Valet Dei remote start
5000k HID -Higherlevelauto.com
Federal 100watt air horn
01-05-2008, 09:22 PM #5
this way is not too bad just the 4 pictures are a pain, but i post this way on all the clubs i belong too. if you follow the link you can see alot of the other things i do as well....mike
By 805savana in forum Chevy Express Forum (GMC Savana)Replies: 5Last Post: 03-16-2010, 10:12 PM
By jrozalez in forum Chevy Silverado Forum (GMC Sierra)Replies: 3Last Post: 01-16-2010, 03:17 PM
By skipr in forum General Chevy & GM Tech QuestionsReplies: 2Last Post: 04-30-2009, 08:31 PM
By bowtiebrian in forum General Chevy & GM Tech QuestionsReplies: 1Last Post: 04-28-2009, 01:07 PM
By vanimal in forum GM PowertrainReplies: 1Last Post: 01-06-2009, 11:52 AM