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  1. #1

    Default Help, Electrical Gremlin

    Was pulling out of my neighborhood and I heard an arcing noise inside the cabin and my instrument cluster and all the electrical for my doors went out. Radio stayed on but my high beams were inop. I noticed as I slowed down or come to a stop, the instrument panel lights would come back on and I would have all electrical in the doors back (still no high beams however).

    My DIC is saying "battery not charging," "check brake boost" and "check air bags." I noticed the battery light on the instrument panel is lit so my alternator may not be charging the battery like the DIC indicates. That's worrisome.

    What would cause the electrical to go out when driving than come back on when coming to a stop? Is it a safety feature to conserve battery power or something? I definitely heard something arc or fry in the cabin. Can't imagine this is a fuse if the electrical comes back on but who knows.

    Any ideas folks? I have a call into the dealership to look at it if they can fit me in. If they can't, I need some ideas.

    I have a 2004 5.3 Z71 Silverado.
    2004 Chevy Silverado 1500 w/ext cab and stepside bed.

  2. #2

    Default

    I would take a long, hard look at the battery cables and all other wires that flex as the engine moves from load to coasting. You might also take a look at the motor mounts, to be sure they are tight. You're losing either power or ground as the driveline shifts.
    Good Luck and God Bless
    Remember that if you're not part of the solution, then you're part of the problem!

  3. #3

    Default

    If you heard the arc inside the cabin, that is probably where the loose connection is; some trucks have a common dash ground just behind/below the dash, about centre of dash, about where the carpet ends as it meets the firewall. I don't know where yours might be located, but there probably is a common ground and that's a good place to start looking.
    Ray

    '09 Avalanche LTZ - Black
    '05 Envoy XL (sold)

  4. #4

    Default

    Well, $1600 later, the problem originated with the alternator. The regulation on the alternator crapped out and sent a surge through the electical system frying a couple of control modules like the cabin temp control and air recirc. Service guy claims he never heard of an alternator failing like that and allowing a surge through the electrical system. Burned out my high beam bulbs as well and I of course needed a new alternator. Pretty expensive gremlin if you ask me.
    2004 Chevy Silverado 1500 w/ext cab and stepside bed.

  5. #5
    Legend

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    Default

    if this is the original OEM 2004 alternator these regulator modules in them have corroding issues. normally the battery voltage drops out intermittently at first then permanently . If this is an aftermarket replacement alternator that is a rebuild then it is quite possible to have this overvoltage failure.

    I hope you purchased a new alternator. [not rebuilt]

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by j cat View Post
    if this is the original OEM 2004 alternator these regulator modules in them have corroding issues. normally the battery voltage drops out intermittently at first then permanently . If this is an aftermarket replacement alternator that is a rebuild then it is quite possible to have this overvoltage failure.

    I hope you purchased a new alternator. [not rebuilt]
    I completely agree with jcat! I went through 6 remans on my 05 yukon xl in 1 month. Bad bearings in all but one, that one put out no voltage. I bought a new bosch alternator and have been good since. Well worth the $20 more it cost me. I hope you did not buy a worldwide or toughone from advance. three of the boxes that they opened for me had untouched cores inside that WW sent to them as remanned. One of them had a cracked case and the pully would not spin. the manager told me that they have been having major issues with WW over the last 2 months

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by j cat View Post
    if this is the original OEM 2004 alternator these regulator modules in them have corroding issues. normally the battery voltage drops out intermittently at first then permanently . If this is an aftermarket replacement alternator that is a rebuild then it is quite possible to have this overvoltage failure.

    I hope you purchased a new alternator. [not rebuilt]
    I believe it is the original however I bought this in 2010 from a used car dealer so I can't be certain. The Chevy dealer just put in one of their alternators so I assume it's not after market. There wouldn't happen to be a recall on this thing would there? Doubt it since the dealership didn't mention it.
    2004 Chevy Silverado 1500 w/ext cab and stepside bed.

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