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  1. #11

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    One tip with the pulley installer. If you use the typical installer available at AutoZone or Harbor Freight, you have to turn a nut while holding the jackscrew in place. Make sure you hold the jackscrew in place and turn the nut evenly. Otherwise the pulley will start going on crooked. No matter what I did, the pulley didn't want to go on straight at first, but it straightened out as I kept going.
    Christopher

    1991 Chevy Suburban 1/2 ton 2WD w/ chevy SBC 350-3/4 ton drivetrain upgrade w/4.10 gears 200K miles
    2005 Saturn ION-2 Stock 265K miles
    1982 Bronco, 1993 Bronco (sold), 1971 M35A2 Deuce and a Half



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  2. #12

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    Ok, thanks! this is the puller I will be using. http://www.amazon.com/OEM-27031-Pull.../dp/B0014WH9SY By turn the nut "evenly" do you mean make sure the nut is flat on the pully surface so the pully is going on straight?
    Last edited by Pikey; 10-19-2012 at 12:27 PM.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  3. #13

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    The pump should be here next week sometime. I am having the front diff rebuilt under warranty (I hope) at the beginning of the week. So, I started soaking the pully and shaft joint down with croil (claims to creep into a 1 one millionth of and inch). Hopefully by midweek it will penetrate enough that the pully comes off with no issue. The inner threads on the shaft are pretty rusty, Hope I can screw the tool into it without to much work.
    Last edited by Pikey; 10-19-2012 at 01:56 PM.

  4. #14
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    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pikey View Post
    The pump should be here next week sometime. I am having the front diff rebuilt under warranty (I hope) at the beginning of the week. So, I started soaking the pully and shaft joint down with croil (claims to creep into a 1 one millionth of and inch). Hopefully by midweek it will penetrate enough that the pully comes off with no issue. The inner threads on the shaft are pretty rusty, Hope I can screw the tool into it.
    the penitrating oil you used does work quite well. the metal threads should be cleaned with a wire brush of the proper size shape to clean up those rusted threads.

    the threaded bore can be cleaned with a pipe wire brush with some wd-40 to aid in the cleaning.

    If you find the pulley does not want to come off try some heat with a small propane torch [small tip] heating the shaft area of the pulley should break the bond. you should not need much heat to get it off.

  5. #15

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    I will have to see what size threads they are when I rent the tool, as i do not have a thread gauge here and internal threads in a diameter that small are kinda hard to read with a gauge anyway. I may have a tap that I can run thru it to clean them up.

  6. #16
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    Sep 2010
    Location
    everett, massachusetts
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    using a tap may remove material then cause a failure. you can get small dia wire pipe brushes 1/8-1/4 inch

    after you clean out the threads then wash out the oil with a solvent. that way the tool will lock in secure.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by j cat View Post
    using a tap may remove material then cause a failure. you can get small dia wire pipe brushes 1/8-1/4 inch

    after you clean out the threads then wash out the oil with a solvent. that way the tool will lock in secure.
    I have the pipe brushes. The job I used to have involved rebuilding old foundry equipment. I used to spend hours cleaning with air and brushes, then brush and brake clean, then air, then tap them all. These holes were filled with sand, rust, water, you name it.

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pikey View Post
    Ok, thanks! this is the puller I will be using. http://www.amazon.com/OEM-27031-Pull.../dp/B0014WH9SY By turn the nut "evenly" do you mean make sure the nut is flat on the pully surface so the pully is going on straight?
    Right. I found that if I tried to get lazy and hold the big nut that's doing the pressing stationary and rotate the jack screw, it wanted to try to walk on very crooked. Turning that big nut while holding the jack screw stationary in the engine compartment is not as easy as it seems, but is unfortunately the only way to get it done. It should be easier since you have plenty of space with the e-fans.

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