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  1. #1

    Default How to pull out a dent?

    Yesterday my lovely wife managed to get stuck in a parking house so badly that she ripped off the left rear wheel house flange and made an 8"x10" wide dent, approx 0.5 inch deep with a sharp horisontal scratch at the bottom. The dent is just aft of the wheelhouse and cant be reached from the inside. The car is a '03 Burb Z71 4WD.

    I tried a suction tool, I tried to pull with a glue stick, I have now glued a slide hammer hook which I'll try tomorrow with a slide hammer. Don't hope too much on that, though. (se pic below)

    I can't weld, so if everything else fails, I guess I'm forced to drill holes and use a screw and my slide hammer. I hate drilling holes in the car, though and would like to hear some other hints from you. Or at least if someone can tell me what to do with the drilled holes to minimize the risk of corrosion.

    TIA

    Last edited by ajaxajax2000; 01-12-2008 at 07:33 PM.
    Peter
    Sweden
    2005 Tahoe LT

  2. #2

    Default

    You don't have to drill holes., please don't. you need to find some one with a stud gun. It is a body tool that uses a gun to weld studs to the out side where you hook the puller to pop out the dent. no more need to drill holes and cause rust and much more work. The studs just twist off.

    I have a stud gun and will help if you are close. I am in WY.

    Tim

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Z-burb View Post
    You don't have to drill holes., please don't. you need to find some one with a stud gun. It is a body tool that uses a gun to weld studs to the out side where you hook the puller to pop out the dent. no more need to drill holes and cause rust and much more work. The studs just twist off.

    I have a stud gun and will help if you are close. I am in WY.

    Tim
    Thank's Tim. And for your kind offer. But, I'm in Sweden, Europe. How does a stud gun work? Do you need welding knowledge? What do they cost? Can you recommend a brand?

  4. #4
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    dwill3015's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Z-burb View Post
    You don't have to drill holes., please don't. you need to find some one with a stud gun. It is a body tool that uses a gun to weld studs to the out side where you hook the puller to pop out the dent. no more need to drill holes and cause rust and much more work. The studs just twist off.

    I have a stud gun and will help if you are close. I am in WY.

    Tim
    Stud guns are the bomb! I have used those many times compared to the traditional drill holes/slide hammer and they are slick!

    BTW Tim, Welcome to the site and way to step up and offer to help a Brother out
    Darcy
    Washington State
    2006 Silverado 2500HD LT3 4X4 CC SB Duramax LBZ
    Tuff Country 6" lift, 35" Toyo M/T's on 20" Ultra Peacemaker wheels, Quadzilla Stealth2 programmer, Diamond Eye 5" cat-back exhaust, factory Special order color Yellow.

  5. #5

    Default

    Good Job Tim
    and Good Luck Peter. Stay warm.
    Jay :happy: Waxhaw, N.C.
    70 Chevy C-10 Stepside from 86 lowered 2" front 3" back, 383ci/350hp. elec. seats,functioning cowl, wood bed, hidden hitch, hidden tach, long headers, duel 3" exhaust. perform int., semi-aggressive cam (no specs.)
    69 Chevy C-10 Fleetside 350 ci 3spd. mild cam, 270hp,stock.duel 2.5" exhaust. Lowered 2" made own blocks

    89 Ski Marlin Boat 350 ci:party: pulling machine. 7 skiiers.

  6. #6

    Default

    The stud gun works by electrically welding a small stud ( looks like a nail with a curved top of the head) After attaching the stud(s) to the damaged area. ( you do have to strip it to bare metal) you attach a puller to the stud. and pull the dent out. After you get finished you cut the studs off at the weld with side cutters.

    Tim

  7. #7
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    I took a quick glance on Ebay and saw several ranging from $99-$300.

    Here is a site that gives a brief description of how to use one.

    The gun acts as a spot welder by welding a small rod to the bare metal allowing you to attatch a slide hammer with a drill type chuck at the end. You pull the dent then snip off the stud and grind the weld flush with the bare metal, prep, and paint.

  8. #8

    Default

    Thank's everyone for your response. I'm impressed!

    I've been looking around without finding anything but the more expensive professional types here in Sweden. Do you think this would do?

    http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...egory_Code=2SW

    And - would an alternativ be a regular MIG weld and either weld the studs using the MIG or drilling holes, using screw/slide hammer and welding the wholes shut with the MIG?

    Thank's again!!!

  9. #9

    Default

    Peter, that one would be perfect don't really need a name brand or expensive one to get the job done.and a great price too. Mine is a $600 snap-on the same as the uni-spotter just red with the snap-on label.

    I would avoid drilling holes if at all possible. any time unnecessary holes are made in the body. corrosion can form and be bad news. Plus being your truck is so new it can cause trouble with the corrosion warranty.

    Tim

  10. #10

    Default

    Do you have Dry Ice available in Sweden?
    If so you can try this method.

    Park the car inside overnight, if possible blow a heater on the dented section.
    Wrap Dry Ice in gauze or cheese cloth (to protect the paint and your hands).
    Rub the dry ice over the dented section, this should cause the warm metal to contract back to its previous position.

    Works almost every time, the exception is if you have to large of a dent.

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