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  1. #11


    i did this on the bronco and pulled power right from the battery for the lights and used the headlight wire as an signal wire. the power right from the batteries mkes the lights much brighter. the multi switch is busted on the suburban and both lights come on all the time and heat the switch up and you can smell the wires i got to fix that first....mike
    Michael Collins
    1993 4X4 Suburban
    many other toys as well

  2. #12

    Thumbs up No problem

    Quote Originally Posted by Z-burb View Post
    Zippy, don't you have the 87 and 87a reversed. Isn't the 87 always on and the 87a when the coil is energized? Great write up anyways, that is exactly the way I was thinking of doing it.

    I wasn't sure enough that I didn't have to double check...
    First, let me clarify: I should have indicated that my diagram shows the low beam condition. When the relay coil is NOT energized, the flow is between 30 & 87a. This is the normal low beam situation.
    When switched to high beam, the OEM high beam power, from the column switch, is tapped to trip the relay and still power the high beams. This is the condition when 30 is connected to 87, and the low beams are powered by the supplemental supply.
    As I prefaced my response, I really couldn't remember which was which, 87 or 87a. Here's what I found (from several sources) to remind me what's going on...

    Luckily, my original is correct. Typically, Bosch depicts relays as though the coil repels the connection at 87 -- your confusion is understandable.
    Give the quad lights a try. If you're like me, when done, you're going to say: Duhh... That was so easy, why didn't I do it a long time ago?
    FYI, A lot of time and effort went into this animated relay info site, check out:
    Good luck, zippy
    Last edited by zippy; 01-17-2008 at 04:18 AM. Reason: fix tpyo
    Are we having fun, yet?

  3. #13

    Red face Not fun

    Quote Originally Posted by collinsperformance View Post
    ...the multi switch is busted on the suburban and both lights come on all the time and heat the switch up and you can smell the wires cooking...
    Yikes... Don't you just hate it when that happens!

    Is it possible you've got gremlins in the instrument lights' potentiometer? Your directly powered headlights might back-feed the light switch and toast things up. When thinking headlights, it's easy to forget there's a lot more than just headlights going on in that switch.
    Years ago, I had a '57 Dodge that had a haunted light switch. Unless you ran the instrument lights at full bright, the pot would get so hot you could burn your fingers on the switch's pull shaft. I don't think I ever fixed it, but I learned to run the dash lights on bright, and not burn my fingers.

  4. #14


    I used two 12v relay (one for the head light & one for the fog lights). Now all the bulbs stay on when I activate the hig beams
    It's a lot cheaper & it works great.

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