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  1. #1

    Default 2003 Yukon Denali XL Acceleration problems

    Hi everyone, I'm new here so pardon me if I'm posting in the wrong place. I recently purchased a 2003 Yukon Denali XL 112k miles. The truck has minor acceleration issues. From a stop or a low RPM, when I go to accelerate slowly, I can hear a buzzing sound from under the drivers feet area, almost like a loud electrical noise (naturally I'm thinking APP sensor, but I'm not sure if the noise is from the outside or the inside). And the car does not go. If I let go of the gas pedal and reapply, then she goes. Power above 2000 RPMs is good. I'm quite experienced with engines, but I've never seen this before. And this is an intermittent problem, so it makes it even more difficult to diagnose. There's no check engine light. When I first got the car, I replaced the MAF sensor and the Throttle Body. The fuel filter has been replaced, and the air filter is clean. This particular Yukon is not equipped with an EGR valve.

    So with all that said, Any pointers would be greatly appreciated...And thanks for reading.

  2. #2

    Default Solution

    To follow up on my post, my diagnosis took me to the ABS wheel sensors. It was misreading wheel speed leading the computer to think that the car lost traction, thus engaging the Stabilitrak Traction Control feature. In turn, that reduces engine power, and makes a weird noise (Almost like a loud electrical noise) under the car. So it makes you think that the car is bogging. When this happens, pay attention to the DIC, the "Traction Active" display will come on for a short time. (If you're not watching it, you'll miss it).

    Now, The Repair...

    A good cleaning of the rust on the hub where the sensor attaches to it should do the trick. If you want to go nuts. Amazon has the new sensors for dirt cheap. 50 dollars for both sides. Do remember that the left and right sensors are not quite the same. The Part numbers are AC 19181872, and AC 19181873. Good luck, and I hope I was able to help someone.

  3. #3

    Default

    Glad to see that you were able to find the issue.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sandstorm View Post
    To follow up on my post, my diagnosis took me to the ABS wheel sensors. It was misreading wheel speed leading the computer to think that the car lost traction, thus engaging the Stabilitrak Traction Control feature. In turn, that reduces engine power, and makes a weird noise (Almost like a loud electrical noise) under the car. So it makes you think that the car is bogging. When this happens, pay attention to the DIC, the "Traction Active" display will come on for a short time. (If you're not watching it, you'll miss it).

    Now, The Repair...

    A good cleaning of the rust on the hub where the sensor attaches to it should do the trick. If you want to go nuts. Amazon has the new sensors for dirt cheap. 50 dollars for both sides. Do remember that the left and right sensors are not quite the same. The Part numbers are AC 19181872, and AC 19181873. Good luck, and I hope I was able to help someone.
    I am experiencing the exact same issue on my 2004 Chevy Tahoe LT w/Stabilitrac. I have heard that the proper way to resolve is to replace the entire Wheel bearing & Hub assembly (including ABS sensor). Does anyone know if there is a good way to determine the parts needed and if there is a difference in Wheel Bearing & Hub assemblies that you may be able to purchase from 1A Auto part #1ASHF00005 $65.

    Thanks!

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