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  1. #1

    Default 95 Ext Cab K1500 5.7 Broken IM Stud Removal

    I have a 95 k1500 with a 350 TBI. Pretty Standard truck other than being lifted and some electronic work. I had the heater hose quick connect in the intake manifold break off flush from being rusted through. No big deal, bought a used manifold. I weigh in at a whopping 107 lbs thanks to transplant surgeries and other medical issues. I had my brother help me break the bolts and studs loose to swap it. He is twice my size (such a good little bro) and broke one of the studs in the process. Just wondering what others have done to remove the broken stud.

  2. #2


    vice grip, drill it, weld a bolt to it, it all depends on how much is sticking out and how much room you have to work....


    2011 GMC Sierra SLE 5.3 Z71 4X4 Stealth Gray Metallic / 2004 Chevy Impala LS 3.8 Cappuccino

    Tow mirrors - Diablew Tuned - Flowmaster Regular 40 - Ready Lift 2.5' lift - BFG LT A/T K/Os - Carr Light Wing - TruckLite LED lights - Optima Red Top - 50% Front Window Tint - Line-X bedliner - Airaid MIT - Tekonsha P2 - ARS Billet Grill - Fia custom fit seat covers

  3. #3


    I agree with sierra, sometimes you will get lucky and an easy out will work

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors,
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  4. #4


    Thanks guys I have about 1/2 inch of rusted bolt to work with. I've worked in body shops and was considering "red wrenching" it with an acetylene torch but I'm afraid I might do more damage than good.

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    everett, massachusetts


    with a 1/2 inch of stud showing heat with a small propane torch until it gets alittle red then use the vise grips. these will quickly cool down the stud[shrink it] then it should come out easier.

  6. #6


    Yeah the same kind of deal as the acetylene torch really. Heat it til its a little red and wrench it out with vise grips. I'm guessing that won't damage the head and that was actually my first thought. I know taking rusted bumper bolts out of older vehicles is so muc easier with a little heat put to them.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    everett, massachusetts


    If you had no stud material to work with using reverse drill bits work good. using the proper size [not too big] you can in most cases get it to spin out while drilling. then if not use the easy out to remove. easy outs can make the stud harder to remove if you drill a hole that is too big. lots of penitrating oil when drilling.

    using the intake manifold hole as a guide and inserting some small piece of tubing to center the hole works best when drilling.

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