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  1. #1

    Default When to switch to synthetic in 5.3L engine.

    I just bought my new Silverado with the 5.3L engine, I've heard numerous opinions, about when to start using synthetic oil.

    My own personal beliefs is that you start using at ~10K miles.

    What are other forum members thoughts.

    BTW, I user Mobil 1 5-30 when I do switch.

  2. #2

    Default

    Well 10k will be pretty much your first oil change but at 3k isn't a problem. Btw what oil filter do you plan to use. Personally I'm partial to Fram Tough Guard filters, but others are good. Here's some info about Fram filters:
    Extra Guard - for everyday driving
    Tough Guard - for heavy duty or tough driving conditions and 7,500 mile change intervals
    Extended Guard - 10,000 mile filter for the longer oil change intervals
    Ultra - Updated version of Extended Guard, featuring a fully syntheic media for a 15,000 mile change interval

    1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
    Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.

    Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door

  3. #3
    Jr. Mechanic
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Central Illinois
    Posts
    129

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by stchman View Post
    I just bought my new Silverado with the 5.3L engine, I've heard numerous opinions, about when to start using synthetic oil.

    My own personal beliefs is that you start using at ~10K miles.

    What are other forum members thoughts.

    BTW, I user Mobil 1 5-30 when I do switch.
    About 30 minutes after you get home with it. No need to wait.
    BTW - I like AC Delco oil filters.
    My Used Oil Analysis says it all.
    http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...ight=paracutin
    2012 Silverado 1500 LT 4X4
    2003 Suburban LT 2500 6.0L
    2004 2500HD Crew Cab LT 4x4 6.0L - SOLD

  4. #4

    Default

    I did my first oil and filter change at 1000 miles. At that time I put in Mobil 1 full synthetic and a K&N filter.





    2011 GMC Sierra SLE - 5.3 - 4X4 - Z71 - King Shock Level Kit - Body Color GMC grill emblem - 2 Tone Engine Cover, Rad Cover and Battery Box - Volant CAI - Tru Cool 40K tranny cooler - Sylvania ZXE bulbs Hi/Low -TriFold Hard Tonneau Cover- CoverCraft Seat Covers - Diablo inTune - GoRecon LED under rail lights - GoRecon LED White Lightning Tailgate Light Bar - Windows tinted to 45%- Kenwood DNX6990 - JL Audio C5-650 &650X- JL Audio Amp- Interco Truxus M/T 33x12.50x18

  5. #5

    Default

    I also use ac delco filters only. I would not put any fram product on anything I own. Not even my lawn mover. Never!! A fram tough gaurd filter uses 248 Square inches of filter material compared to the AC delco equivalent filter that uses 315 square inches, a K&N equivalent uses 356 square inches, mobile 1 filter 356 square inches. I think you get my point! I will not bore you with end cap materials or back flow valve construction. A lot of filters are made by the same company. Mobile 1, k&n, stp, Ac delco and a few others are produced by Champion labs
    Last edited by Pikey; 11-01-2012 at 11:57 PM.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  6. #6
    Legend

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    everett, massachusetts
    Posts
    1,466

    Default

    with the new oil filter design I would stick with the ac delco filters. stay away from fram filters.

    I have been using synthetic Mobil 1 5-30wt in my engines with no problems over many year now. no oil /engine issues. long lasting protection. 10,ooomi or less is a good time to start. I have found that the first 1000mi on the engine the oil gets dirty. so I replace the oil/filter . then at about 3,ooomi replace the oil/filter again using regular oil. then after that I replace with the synthetic.

    I noticed an increase in MPG after the switch. especially winter.

  7. #7
    Jr. Mechanic
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Central Illinois
    Posts
    129

    Default

    +1 to everything Pikey said. Fram are not a quality filter.

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Conlan Rose View Post
    Well 10k will be pretty much your first oil change but at 3k isn't a problem. Btw what oil filter do you plan to use. Personally I'm partial to Fram Tough Guard filters, but others are good. Here's some info about Fram filters:
    Extra Guard - for everyday driving
    Tough Guard - for heavy duty or tough driving conditions and 7,500 mile change intervals
    Extended Guard - 10,000 mile filter for the longer oil change intervals
    Ultra - Updated version of Extended Guard, featuring a fully syntheic media for a 15,000 mile change interval
    I only use AC Delco oil filters. I can get them at the local auto parts store, they're about the same price as the other brands, and if I ever need engine service, the dealer can't give me any lip business about using cr@ppy parts.

    I shied away from non-AC filters years ago on my 4.3L WT. When I used any other brand but AC Delco oil filter, the engine would rattle when it started.

  9. #9

    Default

    Since I've been doing the oil changes in my Tahoe I've used the Tough Guard on it because of how well it filters the oil. I'm not saying others suck I'm just saying I trust Fram filters. Also you can say anything against the anti drain back valve is made of silicon.
    http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ea...-ohio-1261517/
    That's a link to a person who visited their facility last year.

  10. #10

    Default

    Check your owners manual on page 11-13. The 5.3L already has at least a synthetic blend and the only oil I have found with the dexos1 label are synthetics. Also see page 1-34 as when to change oil. FYI.. GM still uses the AC/DELCO PF48 oil filter. Go to this URL to get your on line manual in PDF form. http://www.chevrolet.com/owners/chevy-manuals.html

    Chevy will void the warrantee if a non dexos1 oil is used. The Active Management needs the best oil there is so as when four cylinders shut down, there is proper oil left on the cylinder walls & rings. Search this site on "excess oil use". Older 5.3 had a problem and one part of the fix is dexos1 certified oil.



    Specification
    Use and ask for licensed engine
    oils with the dexos1™ approved
    certification mark. Engine oils
    meeting the requirements for the
    vehicle should have the dexos™1
    approved certification mark.
    This certification mark indicates that
    the oil has been approved to the
    dexos1 specification.
    Notice: Failure to use the
    recommended engine oil or
    equivalent can result in engine
    damage not covered by the
    vehicle warranty. Check with your
    dealer or service provider on
    whether the oil is approved to the
    dexos1 specification.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by stchman View Post
    ...I shied away from non-AC filters years ago on my 4.3L WT. When I used any other brand but AC Delco oil filter, the engine would rattle when it started.
    That was the oil draining out of the filter into the oil pan and causing the oil to be siphoned out of the valves lifters and the rest of the oil system. I had a similar problem with a 92 Saturn. The 5w30 oil was recommended and on one oil change I used 10w30. It would always rattle on start up because the oil was too thick. I drained it out and replaced it with 5w30, no more rattle after that.
    Last edited by WorthFlorida; 11-04-2012 at 08:35 AM. Reason: added verbage

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