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Thread: Oil Type
01-21-2008, 11:04 AM #1
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
I've been running standard dino 5W-30 and am approaching 85,000 miles in my 5.3L 02 Yukon XL. I was wondering how many of you were running synthetic? I am considering changing to AMSOIL, with their filter or a WIX filter. Any thoughts or suggestions on oil and filters? I'm sure this will spark some disucussion...
01-21-2008, 04:00 PM #2
if you check the oil pan, valve covers, front and real seals and oil lines for leaks if none then great goto the syn oil if you got a leak it will be worse with the swap and cost you until you fix the issues. i seen good results with Royal Purpel and castrol but i not swapped in my cars yet.....mikeMichael Collins
1993 4X4 Suburban
many other toys as well
01-23-2008, 09:26 AM #3
I am not a fan of synthetic oil, and IMHO Amsoil is a waste of money. Go with any wix filter and use a good dino oil and change every 3k. On a vehicle with that may miles, you add syntetic oil, and you will see all of your leaks -- especially the rear main.
Royal purple is a good oil, but only for high performance motors -- for a truck motor you're just wasting money. That being said, their diff fluid is AWESOME!
Whatever you do, DO NOT USE FRAM FILTERS OR ANY OTHER FILTER MADE BY ALLIED SIGNAL!
Chevy Parts1972 chevy p/u - 454 engine - work in progress
1999 'burb - wife's vehicle
1976 Jeep CJ5- Dana 60 front and rear, locked, 350 engine, GM 3 spd, Atlas II T/C, 8" lift on 38's
2003 Jeep TJ- Dana 44 rear Dana 30 front, ox lockers front and rear 3.5" lift on 33's - My DD
01-23-2008, 11:39 AM #4
- Join Date
- Jun 2006
- River Ridge Louisiana-4 miles W of New Orleans-didn't flood-water stopped 800 yards away.
I've had good luck with Mobil 1 5w30 in my 1998 200,000 mile Suburban.I've had it for 2300 miles,and it hasn't use any oil according to the dipstick(this was a pleasant surprise-I expected some use considering the miles,and the kinda thin syn oil).
Mobil 1 is $22 for 5 quarts at WalMart.
Some of the Syns-Castrol-aren't very synthetic.Legally they are, but they aren't much different than a good standard petro based oil.
Never heard anything bad about Royal Purple or Amsoil, but they are usually >$2 qt more than Mobil 1.
I have heard plenty bad about Fram filters, but I like the nice grippy surface-stroke of genius.I only use fram filters in a pinch. I switched to Mobil 1 filters $10-really expensive-but just 2x a year.Purolators "good' filter is supposed to be very good also.
01-23-2008, 12:43 PM #5
Yeah, Mobil one filters are good, but really expensive. (relatively speaking) I use either purolator pure one or napa gold. Never had problems with either.
As far as oil, Valvoline is all any of my crankcases have ever seen
01-23-2008, 05:41 PM #6
hahahah what a good topic...just ordered all the oils for my new truck. Amsoil all around with a Mobil1 filter. IMO the Mobil1 filter is the best on the market, been using it since it came out and have seen many many tests that prove that they are number 1. As far as Amsoil i have personally measured the better gas mileage in my vehicle when you replace all the fluids. and the expense out weighs the intervals. i use the extended life oil and change filter at 5000 and oil at 10000 so the extra money spent today saves me money in 3mo/3000mi.
Just my 2 cents take it how you likeRob
2001 Mitsubishi Galant R.I.P
2007 Chevy Silverado
2009 Mitsubishi Lancer
01-23-2008, 06:21 PM #7
Ive used mobil 1 for yrs til I got hooked on Amsoil best move I ve ever made. I use the amsoil 100 percent synthetic and there oil filter. My truck runs smoother and I get alot better gas miles. It also seems like it has a lot more pep.Im using it in the wifes mini van and also my 05 gto . If you are looking for the best in motor oil Amsoil is it . good luck in what you deside.
01-23-2008, 07:17 PM #8
The main problem with Amsoil is that they are not certified -- just like royal purple. And for all you folks out there with your rigs under factory warranty, BE CAREFUL!
You know how the stealerships react when its time to do some warranty work, and if you bring in your records and it shows Amsoil or RP, that is their out from having to do warranty work.
01-23-2008, 07:35 PM #9
since my truck is still under the warrenty i have stuck with the GM Goodwrench oil changes threw the dealer..and when the warrenty ends will be switching over to mobile 1 ...
2006 GMC 1500 Long Bed Vortec 4.3
1982 S-10 Prodject Street/Track with a 327/300hp Motor built up to 415 hp
01-23-2008, 08:04 PM #10
- Join Date
- Jan 2007
It does not have to be certified and GM can not void your warranty because you use an oil that is not certified to their oil standards. Also, under that law, they, the new car mfg trying to void your warranty, would have to prove that the oil in question physically caused the problem as long as it was the proper weight, rating( more below ), was changed on time, etc.... Not being certified to meet a mfg's spec proves nothing. If they try and void you JUST because you used a non certified oil they would lose before they started as that is not something they can legally do( unless they provide it free of charge as said above ).
What they could try and do would be show that it does not meet or exceed the spec in question and they would lose that as well because RP oil does. Well, at least the 5W-30 which is what is called for in 99.9% of their vehicles regardless of which oil spec is in question( I have personally checked the spec's as I run RP myself ).
What a car mfg can do in regards to setting requirements is the following( in relation to oil and oil changes )...
1 - they can make you use an oil that "Meets or Exceeds" their oil standard. They can't make you use an oil that is actually certified to the mfg's spec however( they certify oils to 1 - provide a list for their customers of oils that do meet the standard and 2 - because they make money off the certification process which is why many companies like RP and Amsoil don't get certified as it is expensive )nor can they make you use any specific brand( again, unless they provide it free of charge to you ).
2 - they can require you use an API( American Petroleum Institute )certified oil that meets whatever level they want( L, M, etc... ). That is not a mfg's spec or test process so they can make you do that. RP is API certified so it meets warranty requirements.
3 - they can tell you what weight you must use also. They can say you must use 5W-30 and if you use say 20W-50 and have a lubrication failure they have you.They can't make you use GM 5W-30 or any specific brand of 5W-30 unless it is provided free of charge to you.
4 - they can tell you when the oil must be changed. If they say do it every 3-5K or by the OLM( oil life monitor )you have to and you can't run extended OCI's like some do with synthetic. They have the legal right to tell you it must be changed by a certain mileage or time period. Exceed those limits and you risk your warranty.
5 - they can not tell you what brand of filter to use or make you use a GM one unless provided free. Just use the appropriate aftermarket filter by application for your vehicle as it will meet the OE filter spec's. However, if you use an aftermarket filter and it fails causing damage to your engine they can refuse to cover it wherein you go after the filter mfg to repair the damage. In that situation the burden of proof becomes yours. YOU have to show the faulty filter caused the damage to get the filter mfg to fix your engine. The chances of this happening though are very slim. Even the cheap filters like Fram can generally go 3K but if you will go longer get a quality filter.
Now this is not to say a dealer may not "try" to void you for this but they will lose if push comes to shove. Get a copy of the Magnuson-Moss act to have for referrence and then also get the spec sheet for whatever oil standard applies to your vehicle. It is simple from there to contact the oil mfg of your choice if they are not certified for that spec and find out if it meets or exceeds the spec. As long as it does you are good. Just get a copy of the oil's test data to show the dealer along with the spec sheet for the oil standard. A simple call to GM about it should straighten it out if you can't get the dealer to back down after proving the oil is okay. Ultimately they will be the ones across from you in court and they are not going to waste their money and time fighting something they know they will lose.
Last edited by NHSilverado; 01-23-2008 at 08:15 PM.
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