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  1. #11


    I don't even see the 140 amp option, that must have been a camper special or something. No, it won't affect anything.

    Here are some diagrams and the OEM parts for your truck:

    2001 GMC SIerra 2500 HD Alternator Image

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  2. #12


    i just figure that if i have to replace it i mind as well upgrade a little lol
    2001 Gmc Sierra 2500hd
    -All clear lights with 5000k HID -Spectre cold air intake w/ k&n cone -Cooper dicoverer ST Maxx 285/75/16 -Meyer 7.5ft poly plow E60 pump - 3500 Rear springs-Leveling kit- Backrack-LED interior lights - Pioneer headunit with Alpine type s 6.5 and Polk 4x6 and 12 inch pioneer sub with alpine vpower amp.

  3. #13


    i ended up going with the 145 amp from autozone .. it fits perfectly and has a lifetime warranty

  4. #14


    do you guys think i should need to upgrade some of the cables since i upgraded the alternator

  5. #15
    Jr. Engineer Jamm3r's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Minneapolis area


    Hi folks some more light on the GM alternator situation since it's kinda confusing.

    For a long time The General has used both small-frame and large-frame alternators depending on the truck, with diesels and plow trucks getting the large-frame and most of the others getting the small frame. Large frame alternators produce more output at idle, and have slightly higher maximum output.

    Here is a chart I have compiled based on various sources.

    Year Large-frame Small-frame Notes
    1973-1986 17si, 108 amp 10si & 12si, 94 amp External fan, two-pin square control connector
    1986-1995 CS-144 CS-130, 105 amp Four pin square control connector, external fan
    1995-1999 CS-144 CS-130D, 105 amp CS-130D: has oval control connector and internal fan
    2000-2002 AD-244, 145 amp AD-230, 105 amp Oval control connector, internal fan
    2002-2009 DR44g, 145 amp AD-230, 105 amp Oval control connector, internal fan

    All of these are internally regulated alternators and are electrically interchangeable. All were made in several different mounting configurations, but all the 1986 and later truck applications, as far as I know, used the dual-spool mount and are interchangeable, though switching from small-frame to large-frame requires a 1.5" change in belt length and it may be necessary to install a different control connector (or use an adapter).

    The original CS-130 and CS-144 designations correspond to a case diameter of 130mm and 144mm, respectively.

    In mid-2000 GM switched from a four-pin oval connector to a two-pin connector with the timing of the switchover varying from one chassis to the next. The extra pins were an unrectified stator output used as a tachometer drive in some applications, and a field terminal used for diagnosing alternator problems, and were dropped as a cost-reducing move. I don't think either of these was ever used for anything in a truck application.

    For 1986 and later trucks, if you have a small-frame alternator and want to replace it with another small-frame alternator, you're best off installing an AD-230 and using an adapter if necessary for the control connection.

    Again for 1986 and later, if you need to replace or want to switch to a large-frame alternator, you're best off getting an AD-244 and adapting the wiring as necessary, although a DR44g may be cheaper and will work fine if you don't run large enough loads for diode failures to be a problem.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by quicksilver8817 View Post
    do you guys think i should need to upgrade some of the cables since i upgraded the alternator
    The output cable is a known weak point and should be upgraded if you have any electrical mods that ask a lot from the alternator (plow, camper, winch, extra lights, inverter). 6 gauge is a good compromise between flexibility and current carrying capacity.
    Minneapolis area - 1997 K2500 regular cab long bed + 8.5' Western Unimount plow + modified transmission + 2nd battery + modified camper charge circuit + 1971 Cayo camper -and- 2004 4x4 Suburban 2500 8.1 + Maxbrake controller + 2nd battery + modified trailer charge circuit + Reese receiver, pulls 30' Airstream trailer

  6. #16


    so i should uprgrade the alt cable because i run a plow correct?

  7. #17


    Yes u should upgrade. Also upgrade the grounds. Btw KnuKoncepts makes amazing super flex able cables even the 1/0 AWG moves like rope just get the OFC Flek Able it candidates handle 375 amps. The 4 gauge is pretty good too. Check it out.

    1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
    Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.

    Check out my other mods in My Garage:

  8. #18


    ill look into it thanks

  9. #19


    ConlanRose, did you ever get the DC conversion? I am looking into this as well. When you say, upgrade grounds, do you mean to just add another ground wire?
    -K&N Air Filter

  10. #20


    Quote Originally Posted by jsmith4816 View Post
    ConlanRose, did you ever get the DC conversion? I am looking into this as well. When you say, upgrade grounds, do you mean to just add another ground wire?
    I have been tight on cash and need new tires so I have not yet gotten the new alternator, but I can easily elaborate on the upgrade grounds and alternator wire. Its called the big three upgrade normally what you do is replace you factory battery grounds with larger gauge cable and same with the alternator. This allows the extra current to flow better.

    Think about it like this: you have a large water storage tank(the battery), a water pump(alternator) and garden hoses going between the two(wires, cables). If you put a larger pump in but don't increase the size of the hoses the pump will suck them dry or push more water through them then they can handle.

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