GM Truck Club
THE PREMIER CHEVY TRUCK & SUV FORUM
Founded in 2004 ~ We're the #1 Chevy Truck & SUV Forum.
Silverado & Sierra | Tahoe & Yukon | Suburban & Yukon XL | SUV & CROSSOVER
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 16
  1. #1

    Default new brake rotors

    been looking into these for a bit now, but need to make a decision.
    how many of yall would back up R1concepts?
    im really looking into slotted rotors based on all the literature ive studied.
    ive looked at powerslot(~$380), brembo(~$510), and R1(~$230). obviously brembo and powerslot are known, but i have heard many great things on R1, and im leaning towards them because theyre price is alot more fair obviously. Now i know you can choose their "e-line" or "premium" rotors which is quite a price difference. the main difference i see is a stronger iron, which really is impractical for street use, and a black e-coated for rust protection, well i live in corpus christi, so i know no matter what kind of protection you have, its going to rust, so why pay more when youll have the same result? lol
    any other recommendations are welcome too, just looking to replace my 4-currently warped rotors. Thanks!
    2000 Chevrolet Silverado

    Powertrain:
    4.3L V6, 4L60E, 2WD, Single Cab
    Performance:
    Airaid CAI
    Poweraid TB Spacer
    Flowmaster 10-series exhaust (dumped)
    BLACKBEAR TUNED!!!
    Edge CS insight monitor
    4.10 gears
    Limited-slip differential
    LS-1 Dual Electric fans
    Corvette tranny servo swap

    Audio:
    Head Unit: Alpine
    Speakers: Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" component set, 4X6 Infinity Kappas
    Subs: 2-12" Kicker CVT's
    Amps: Alpine-M1000 (subs), Alpine MRX-F65 (Speakers)


    Tires/Wheels:
    305/70R16 NITTO Terra Grapplers
    16" PROCOMP 7089's
    Suspension:
    2" leveling kit
    3" Fabtech Spindle Lift Kit
    Front/Rear-Bilstein 5100 shocks

    Lighting:
    FRONT
    35W HID Low Beams
    RECON LED smoked roof cab lights
    REAR
    HELLA LED taillights and 3rd brakelight
    HELLA FF-75 Aux. Reverse Lamps
    RIGID dually D2, flush mount, wide beam
    Accessories:
    Hawk HPS Brake pads
    Russell braided steel brake lines
    Powerstop-red powdercoated brake calipers
    Powerslot Cryo brake rotors
    EGR in-channel window visors

  2. #2

    Default

    The BEST option is cryogenically treated rotors. Frozen ito insanely low temperatures. A little more to it than that, but the point is they do not warp when they get real hot from braking. Yes, they cost more, but they do not warp. I have them on my BMW and my truck front brakes. I tow with my truck and you brake using 70% front, so this is where you want your good stuff.

    I drive my M6 VERY hard, and occasionally on a track. I have warped two sets of rotors prior to getting Frozen Rotors. These have no warpage after many miles of use. I don't expect they ever will at this point.

    Diversified Cryogenics is the company you want to contact. They are in Minnesota. That is where I bought mine. I suggest you call them and talk to them about what you have and what you use your truck for. They can recommend some choices and also brake pads to use: http://www.frozenrotors.com/

    You can order them slotted, drilled, both or none of the above. Just tell them how you want them done and you can probably also choose the source for the rotors (from their list). Brembo is one supplier.

    This is their brake rotor and pad web site.
    1994 Chevy K2500 Silverado, 454 (modified), original owner.
    And other vehicles and toys.

    "...If you can meet with triumph and disaster
    And treat those two imposters just the same;
    ...you'll be a Man, my son!" Rudyard Kipling

  3. #3

    Default

    yes, i am well aware of the advantages of cryo-treated rotors, if money was not a factor, i would definitely go that route, however if money was not a factor, id probably just throw a brembo big brake kit on my truck LOL,
    that site looks pretty good though thanks for that info!
    2000 Chevrolet Silverado

    Powertrain:
    4.3L V6, 4L60E, 2WD, Single Cab
    Performance:
    Airaid CAI
    Poweraid TB Spacer
    Flowmaster 10-series exhaust (dumped)
    BLACKBEAR TUNED!!!
    Edge CS insight monitor
    4.10 gears
    Limited-slip differential
    LS-1 Dual Electric fans
    Corvette tranny servo swap

    Audio:
    Head Unit: Alpine
    Speakers: Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" component set, 4X6 Infinity Kappas
    Subs: 2-12" Kicker CVT's
    Amps: Alpine-M1000 (subs), Alpine MRX-F65 (Speakers)


    Tires/Wheels:
    305/70R16 NITTO Terra Grapplers
    16" PROCOMP 7089's
    Suspension:
    2" leveling kit
    3" Fabtech Spindle Lift Kit
    Front/Rear-Bilstein 5100 shocks

    Lighting:
    FRONT
    35W HID Low Beams
    RECON LED smoked roof cab lights
    REAR
    HELLA LED taillights and 3rd brakelight
    HELLA FF-75 Aux. Reverse Lamps
    RIGID dually D2, flush mount, wide beam
    Accessories:
    Hawk HPS Brake pads
    Russell braided steel brake lines
    Powerstop-red powdercoated brake calipers
    Powerslot Cryo brake rotors
    EGR in-channel window visors

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by reggiecab2000 View Post
    yes, i am well aware of the advantages of cryo-treated rotors, if money was not a factor, i would definitely go that route, however if money was not a factor, id probably just throw a brembo big brake kit on my truck LOL,
    that site looks pretty good though thanks for that info!
    Money was not a factor for me and I did not go Brembo. My list came down to EBC, R1, and Powerslot. I went with Powerslot cryos. (I wrestled with the anti-rust coating question and came to the same decisions you did -- not worth it.)

    Key to the decision to spend more up front and go cryo wasn't just the non-warping aspect, but also the longer lifespan which means higher up front cost but smaller long-term cost. I bought from Autoanything and made it less spendy with a discount code. You might try pricing that way and taking the long term cost view and seeing what you think?

  5. #5

    Default

    i could try to look at it that way, and i completely understand your point, i have looked at those powerslot cryos time and time again, but damn, they cost more than the brembo sport slotted rotors. at $145.00 for each front rotor and $135.00 for each rear, thats just beyond my college/kid/part time job budget. even with my discount code, it still sits at $480.00 total. Perhaps if it was summertime where i make $400-$500/week (hey, to all you career ballers, for a college kid that aint bad) i might be more willing to do so. I just dont have the money to front for that right now unfortunately, which i why id love for some people to chime in on some brands (i.e. R1, powerslot,ebc, etc.) R1 seems to be on my list because of the price, but i dont want to skimp on quality for price, id like someone with some good reviews and/or advice.
    thanks!
    2000 Chevrolet Silverado

    Powertrain:
    4.3L V6, 4L60E, 2WD, Single Cab
    Performance:
    Airaid CAI
    Poweraid TB Spacer
    Flowmaster 10-series exhaust (dumped)
    BLACKBEAR TUNED!!!
    Edge CS insight monitor
    4.10 gears
    Limited-slip differential
    LS-1 Dual Electric fans
    Corvette tranny servo swap

    Audio:
    Head Unit: Alpine
    Speakers: Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" component set, 4X6 Infinity Kappas
    Subs: 2-12" Kicker CVT's
    Amps: Alpine-M1000 (subs), Alpine MRX-F65 (Speakers)


    Tires/Wheels:
    305/70R16 NITTO Terra Grapplers
    16" PROCOMP 7089's
    Suspension:
    2" leveling kit
    3" Fabtech Spindle Lift Kit
    Front/Rear-Bilstein 5100 shocks

    Lighting:
    FRONT
    35W HID Low Beams
    RECON LED smoked roof cab lights
    REAR
    HELLA LED taillights and 3rd brakelight
    HELLA FF-75 Aux. Reverse Lamps
    RIGID dually D2, flush mount, wide beam
    Accessories:
    Hawk HPS Brake pads
    Russell braided steel brake lines
    Powerstop-red powdercoated brake calipers
    Powerslot Cryo brake rotors
    EGR in-channel window visors

  6. #6

    Default

    It's a week's pay for years of reliable service; that's the perspective I tend to shift to when things cost a lot. Kinda like mattresses, there are cheap ones and pricey ones ... and since we spend ~1/3 of our lives asleep on such things, spending a good bit on a mattress that'll last 20 years and is comfortable suddenly seems more reasonable (in that context).

    Is saving a bit longer to get the long-term reliability and service gains really a non-option? I'm not trying to sell you on the powerslot cryos, I'm just trying to lend perspective.

    Surreal
    P.S. I've heard nothing but good things about R1's...
    Last edited by SurrealOne; 11-02-2012 at 01:06 AM.

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SurrealOne View Post
    It's a week's pay for years of reliable service; that's the perspective I tend to shift to when things cost a lot. Kinda like mattresses, there are cheap ones and pricey ones ... and since we spend ~1/3 of our lives asleep on such things, spending a good bit on a mattress that'll last 20 years and is comfortable suddenly seems more reasonable (in that context).

    Is saving a bit longer to get the long-term reliability and service gains really a non-option? I'm not trying to sell you on the powerslot cryos, I'm just trying to lend perspective.

    Surreal

    P.S. I've heard nothing but good things about R1's...
    well, its not that they NEED to be replaced right this instant, but I am also needing to replace both rear axle shafts as well and i dont wanna replace the axles and still have warped rotors on there, or vice versa, replace the rotors and still have a bent axle, wanna do them both at the same time, and also want to do them quickly because though my new tires are finally 1-year old, im starting to see a funky wear pattern emerge in them from my slightly bent axle. so I want to jump on the axle asap, which means i need to jump on the rotors asap, and ill also need to jump on a new rack and pinion asap, but thats another story lol.
    so doing this in a faster manner than it should be, for the sake of also prolonging the life of other components such as tires. And i DO appreciate your perspective surreal.
    2000 Chevrolet Silverado

    Powertrain:
    4.3L V6, 4L60E, 2WD, Single Cab
    Performance:
    Airaid CAI
    Poweraid TB Spacer
    Flowmaster 10-series exhaust (dumped)
    BLACKBEAR TUNED!!!
    Edge CS insight monitor
    4.10 gears
    Limited-slip differential
    LS-1 Dual Electric fans
    Corvette tranny servo swap

    Audio:
    Head Unit: Alpine
    Speakers: Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" component set, 4X6 Infinity Kappas
    Subs: 2-12" Kicker CVT's
    Amps: Alpine-M1000 (subs), Alpine MRX-F65 (Speakers)


    Tires/Wheels:
    305/70R16 NITTO Terra Grapplers
    16" PROCOMP 7089's
    Suspension:
    2" leveling kit
    3" Fabtech Spindle Lift Kit
    Front/Rear-Bilstein 5100 shocks

    Lighting:
    FRONT
    35W HID Low Beams
    RECON LED smoked roof cab lights
    REAR
    HELLA LED taillights and 3rd brakelight
    HELLA FF-75 Aux. Reverse Lamps
    RIGID dually D2, flush mount, wide beam
    Accessories:
    Hawk HPS Brake pads
    Russell braided steel brake lines
    Powerstop-red powdercoated brake calipers
    Powerslot Cryo brake rotors
    EGR in-channel window visors

  8. #8

    Default

    Call Frozen Rotors/Diversified Cryogenics and ask for Mark or Bill. They will tell you which manufacturers they have had the best results from. All I remember from talking to Mark is Brembo and one other company that the name escapes me. There are others. They know all domestic sources for rotors, and they won't try to steam roll you into buying what they have.
    1994 Chevy K2500 Silverado, 454 (modified), original owner.
    And other vehicles and toys.

    "...If you can meet with triumph and disaster
    And treat those two imposters just the same;
    ...you'll be a Man, my son!" Rudyard Kipling

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by reggiecab2000 View Post
    well, its not that they NEED to be replaced right this instant, but I am also needing to replace both rear axle shafts as well and i dont wanna replace the axles and still have warped rotors on there, or vice versa, replace the rotors and still have a bent axle, wanna do them both at the same time, and also want to do them quickly because though my new tires are finally 1-year old, im starting to see a funky wear pattern emerge in them from my slightly bent axle. so I want to jump on the axle asap, which means i need to jump on the rotors asap, and ill also need to jump on a new rack and pinion asap, but thats another story lol.
    so doing this in a faster manner than it should be, for the sake of also prolonging the life of other components such as tires. And i DO appreciate your perspective surreal.
    So you're willing to skimp on one of the most important systems in your truck ... to save a pair of 1yr old tires with oddball wear ... from more oddball wear?

    Consider that you ARE lifted with big meaty tires that have a pile of inertia once rolling ... so you put a lot more wear (and build a lot more heat) in your brake system than if you were at stock height on stock tires. Warpage is more likely to happen because of this, especially when towing on non-flat terrain or those times you spike the brakes to avoid wearing another vehicle's rear end ... so altering your brake system to account for this becomes important ... unless you're willing to just replace warped rotors at intervals as a fact of life.

    That begs the question of whether saving a bit longer to get the long-term reliability and service gains is really a non-option? I'm not trying to sell you on the powerslot cryos, I'm just trying to lend perspective. Your options are to avoid warpage or embrace it. i.e. Do you want to spend more up front to avoid it and get more life out of the system, or do you want to treat your rotors as disposable and plan to remove/replace them at regular intervals that are significantly more frequent than a stock vehicle must. (And if you go the disposable route, how disposable do you want to be about it?)

    Your call... but consider speed never killed anyone ... it's the sudden, uncontrolled stop at the end that does. Brake systems are one of those places where it's unwise to skimp for that very reason -- and it becomes more important for a lifted truck with big tires because the stopping capability is already reduced compared to a stock truck's. In a given distance your larger diameter tires make fewer revolutions than smaller diameter tires do ... which is less opportunity for your brake system to do its job with light pressure ... so you work the brakes and rotors harder than OEM setups do, always. And that's just on a flat surface while unladen. Add in hills. Add in cargo you're hauling or towing. You get the idea...

    With that in mind ... is your safety and/or life worth a week's pay to you, right now? If not, are you willing to put in the time and less up front money, regularly, to replace your rotors at intervals and avoid spending a week's pay on your safety, now ... knowing it'll probably add up to more money (and certainly more time) in the long haul?

    There's the perspective I'm trying to lend.

    In the context of the other work -- the tires are already worn oddly. I know they aren't cheap but the damage is done and you can't undo it. That's no excuse to let it continue ... but the fact that it is continuing should also not be an excuse to skimp on one of the most important systems in your truck -- especially since your truck is lifted with large diameter tires.

    Surreal

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by The Heater View Post
    Call Frozen Rotors/Diversified Cryogenics and ask for Mark or Bill. They will tell you which manufacturers they have had the best results from. All I remember from talking to Mark is Brembo and one other company that the name escapes me. There are others. They know all domestic sources for rotors, and they won't try to steam roll you into buying what they have.
    FWIW: I called frozenrotors when making my decision to go cryo and prior to purchasing ... and they were pricier than powerslot cryos once shipping and my autoanything discount code was factored in. Still, it never hurts to call again as pricing could have changed in the last year, but I figured I'd share that.

  10. #10

    Default

    damnit surreal,
    you and your valid points...
    Ill just need some time to save up for that spendy price. I did know of the warping advantages cryo treated rotors have over non-cryo treated, however, i actually was not aware that cryo treated rotors actually last longer than non-cryo treated rotors. It seems that, that quality itself is enough to justify a few extra bucks to spend on the subject...
    Heater i will give them a call next week. thanks!

    also i stumbled upon this website, seems pretty interesting and they do more than just brakes...
    http://www.sigmaautomotive.com/cryogenics/portal.php
    2000 Chevrolet Silverado

    Powertrain:
    4.3L V6, 4L60E, 2WD, Single Cab
    Performance:
    Airaid CAI
    Poweraid TB Spacer
    Flowmaster 10-series exhaust (dumped)
    BLACKBEAR TUNED!!!
    Edge CS insight monitor
    4.10 gears
    Limited-slip differential
    LS-1 Dual Electric fans
    Corvette tranny servo swap

    Audio:
    Head Unit: Alpine
    Speakers: Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" component set, 4X6 Infinity Kappas
    Subs: 2-12" Kicker CVT's
    Amps: Alpine-M1000 (subs), Alpine MRX-F65 (Speakers)


    Tires/Wheels:
    305/70R16 NITTO Terra Grapplers
    16" PROCOMP 7089's
    Suspension:
    2" leveling kit
    3" Fabtech Spindle Lift Kit
    Front/Rear-Bilstein 5100 shocks

    Lighting:
    FRONT
    35W HID Low Beams
    RECON LED smoked roof cab lights
    REAR
    HELLA LED taillights and 3rd brakelight
    HELLA FF-75 Aux. Reverse Lamps
    RIGID dually D2, flush mount, wide beam
    Accessories:
    Hawk HPS Brake pads
    Russell braided steel brake lines
    Powerstop-red powdercoated brake calipers
    Powerslot Cryo brake rotors
    EGR in-channel window visors

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Brake Pads and Rotors
    By Curky in forum Maintenance & Upkeep
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 08-19-2012, 05:56 PM
  2. The best Brake pads & Rotors?
    By Raptrax in forum Lifted & Offroad Suspension
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 02-18-2012, 03:17 PM
  3. new brake rotors
    By 03 Black Sunshine in forum Lifted & Offroad Suspension
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 12-23-2009, 06:48 PM
  4. front brake rotors
    By big-rig in forum Lifted & Offroad Suspension
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 12-01-2007, 06:08 PM
  5. Warping brake rotors
    By Bordelon in forum Chevy Tahoe Forum (GMC Yukon, Cadillac Escalade)
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 05-06-2006, 09:52 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •