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04-13-2012, 05:56 PM #1
- Join Date
- Dec 2006
Clunking drivetrain ? - 2011 Chevy 1500 4wd, 4.8L, 4spd tranny
I am sure this topic has been popular, just wondering how other's fixed/repaired/handled the issue.
Please chime in or help, I have never had a vehicle do this before....
I have the clunking drivetrain issue, 2011 Chevy 1500 4wd, 4.8L, 4spd tranny, extra cab, 39,000miles.
Dealer says i do not have slip yoke; checked things out 3 times and still have issue.
I did have broken motor mount, dealer replaced, clunking issue is better but I still have it when
1. Shifting from R to D or D to R
2. Hard take-off, like pulling out in front of traffic, pulling a load, etc.
3. coasting when making a turn and getting back on gas
Is this just normal GM/Chevy issue i will need to live with?
I am really not interested in going back to dealer, I have started a case with chevy customer service, and just wondering what my next move is. If it is always going to be this way, then I guess the only solution I see is a slip yoke eliminator kit....
What do ya'll think?
Thanks in advance!
04-13-2012, 10:34 PM #2
Bulletin No.: 09-03-09-001A
Date: April 13, 2011
Subject: Clunking Noise from Rear of Vehicle (Retorque Leaf Spring Bolts)
2007-2012 Chevrolet Silverado
2007-2012 GMC SierraSupercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-03-09-001 (Section 03 -- Suspension).Condition
Some customers may comment about a clunking noise coming from the rear of the vehicle. Upon further investigation, the technician may diagnose the noise coming from the rear suspension leaf spring area.
The noise may be resolved by retorquing the joints of the leaf spring assembly.
1. Support the vehicle at curb height when retorquing the leaf spring bolts/nuts.Note
Do not remove the fuel tank.
2. Loosen the shackle joint to the frame, front eye joint to the frame, rear eye to shackle joint and the anchor plate U-bolts. 3. Re-torque the shackle joint to the frame and to the rear eye. Tighten
Tighten the shackle nut to 95 Nm (73 lb ft).
4. Re-torque the anchor plate U-bolts (1, 2, 3 and 4). Tighten
Tighten the nut to 100 Nm (74 lb ft).
5. Re-torque the front rear spring mounting nut.Tighten.
Tighten the front nut to 200 Nm (148 lb ft).
6. Repeat steps 2 through 5 for the right side leaf spring. 7. Re-test the vehicle for the same clunking noise. If the issue remains, follow the regular repair procedure
Bulletin No.: 03-03-09-002E
Date: June 28, 2011
Subject: Rear Leaf Spring Slap or Clunk Noise (Replace Spring Inserts)
1999-2012 Chevrolet Silverado 1500/2500
2000-2012 Chevrolet Suburban 2500
2002-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche 2500
2003-2012 Chevrolet Express 2500/3500 Vans with 8500 GVWR (RPO C5F), 8600 GVWR (RPO C6P) or 9600 GVWR (RPO C6Y)
1999-2012 GMC Sierra 1500/2500
2000-2012 GMC Yukon XL 2500
2003-2012 GMC Savana 2500/3500 Vans with 8500 GVWR (RPO C5F), 8600 GVWR (RPO C6P) or 9600 GVWR (RPO C6Y)Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2012 model year and update to the Warranty Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-03-09-002D (Section 03 - Suspension).Condition
Some customers may comment on a rear leaf spring slap or clunk noise. This noise is most apparent when the vehicle is operated over irregular road surfaces.
The rear leaf spring tip inserts may have broken apart from wear and fallen out, or may be severely worn or damaged.
DO NOT disassemble the main pack on the leaf spring or remove the bushing from the spring.
Light Duty Spring
Verify that the rear leaf spring tip inserts (1) are present on the leading and trailing ends of the overload spring (second stage leaf), and inspect the condition of the inserts. If the inserts are either not present or severely worn or damaged, install new inserts.
On some models, the vehicle may have to be raised to allow the springs to separate enough so the insert can be installed.
Vehicles originally equipped with all plastic (1) or plastic and rubber (2) design tip inserts can be serviced by all rubber (3) updated design inserts.
Bulletin No.: 99-04-20-002G
Date: May 06, 2011
Subject: Information on Driveline Clunk Noise When Shifting Between PARK and DRIVE, PARK and REVERSE or DRIVE and REVERSE
2012 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)
2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3
2009 and Prior Saab 9-7XSupercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add current model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-20-002F (Section 04 - Driveline/Axle).Important
The condition described in this bulletin should not be confused with the following previous bulletins:Some customers of vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise when shifting between Park and Drive, Park and Reverse, or Drive and Reverse. Similarly, customers of vehicles equipped with automatic or manual transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise while driving when the accelerator is quickly depressed and then released.
- Info - Discontinue Flushing and Replacing Transfer Case Fluid Due to Bump/Clunk Concern (Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-21-004A) - Clunk, Bump or Squawk when Vehicle Comes to Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop (Replace Rear Drive Shaft Nickel-Plated Slip Yoke) (Corporate Bulletin Number 01-04-17-004B) - Clunk Noise at Stop or From Launch (Clean/Lubricate Rear Propshaft Slip Yoke Splines) (Corporate Bulletin Number 09-04-21-003D) - Bump Feel/Clunk Noise at Stop or From Launch (Clean/Lubricate Propeller Shaft Slip Yoke Splines) (Corporate Bulletin Number 09-04-17-002E)
Compare this complaint vehicle to a like vehicle. If the results are the same, this is a normal condition. For additional diagnostic information, refer to the appropriate Service information.Whenever there are two or more gears interacting with one another, there must be a certain amount of clearance between those gears in order for the gears to operate properly. This clearance or freeplay (also known as lash) can translate into a clunk noise whenever the gear is loaded and unloaded quickly, or whenever the direction of rotation is reversed. The more gears you have in a system, the more freeplay the total system will have.
The clunk noise that owners sometimes hear may be the result of a buildup of freeplay (lash) between the components in the driveline.
For example, the potential for a driveline clunk would be greater in a 4-wheel drive or all-wheel drive vehicle than a 2-wheel drive vehicle. This is because in addition to the freeplay from the rear axle gears, the universal joints, and the transmission (common to both vehicles), the 4-wheel drive transfer case gears (and their associated clearances) add additional freeplay to the driveline.
In service, dealers are discouraged from attempting to repair driveline clunk conditions for the following reasons:
- Comments of driveline clunk are almost never the result of one individual component with excessive lash, but rather the result of the added affect of freeplay (or lash) present in all of the driveline components.Because all of the components in the driveline have a certain amount of lash by design, changing driveline components may not result in a satisfactory lash reduction. - While some owners may find the clunk noise objectionable, this will not adversely affect durability or performance. - For additional diagnostic information, refer to the appropriate Service Information.
04-14-2012, 01:54 PM #3
- Join Date
- Dec 2006
I was wondering how this affects the driveshaft?
I guess I will need to look into this, maybe causing the clunking noise. I mean, I can craw under the truck, grab the driveshaft and rotate it back and forth and it makes the same clunking noise.
I guess this is referred to normal backlash I have heard others mention...
What about the racquect ball fix? Anyone try that on a 2011 4wd?
11-15-2012, 11:28 PM #4
- Join Date
- May 2009
With my 2009 Silverado 1500, when coming to a stop, the truck slams hard which they told me was the backlash you mention. Something about lubricating the splines. Took it in 13,000 miles and at 30,000 miles a week ago to get lubricated as it was doing it again. It didn't happen when I slowed down over a longer distance to the stop light, nor did it happen when I was slowly pulling into parking spots, etc.
What pisses me off, is this is not covered under 5yr power train warranty which makes no sense. It was covered 3year bumper to bumper at 13,000miles, but I bought it in April 2009 so its not covered now.
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