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Thread: broken spark plug
11-30-2012, 11:06 PM #31
If I'm pulling them they are getting rebuilt there is no reason why not to have it done.
Btw I was talking about estimate for getting the heads done and plugs removed. I may just have them take them off its not hard so what it'll be an hour of labor per hear for removal that $200 not bad. It will be much more expensive for reassembly reconditioning and removing each plug. I will be supplying them with the gaskets I want so I know they are high quality. I also will give them the oil, filter, and a couple other things. I think they can handle putting the Dex-cool in. I will also get a radiator flush done at the same time and flush the whole cooling system so I don't have to worry about it. May also have them install my block heater which should take all of 20 mins.
I know this will cost a pretty penny, but most shops allow you to pay for repairs over the course of a few months. I know I seem non emotionally attached to the truck, well that's not true I love this truck. I saved her and brought her back to life. Losing her would be like losing part of who I am. My parents think she is disposable she isn't because she's my truck.
Heck I just payed almost a grand replacing her rear main and oil pan gaskets I'm not losing that investment. Also has 950 worth of brake work done out of my pocket. As I stated $3,735.15 of my money spent, not including gas. Gonna be adding $346.25 worth of gaskets, oil, coolant, and other stuff needed for the repair. I may be at over $5,500 by the time shes fixed, but it will be worth it I hope. Of course to pass emissions I need to replace my cats and O2 sensors which is like $850. Will need new tires soon another $850. Of course this is if she begins to run well again.
- - - Updated - - -
1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 202,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.
Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door
12-01-2012, 07:55 AM #32
That works too. I can't dissagree with making repairs or improvements while you're into something as putting something back together half done realy goes against my way of thinking also. Some people treat vehicles as throw away items and others as investments. Unless you can find another Tahoe with less problems for less $ than you'll spend on repairs then it is a good plan and you should do it. Good luck and hope you get another couple hundred K miles from it.2000 GMC YUKON SLT, 5.3L tow pkg, G80 rear/w 3.73 gear
12-01-2012, 08:34 AM #33
At least now I am thinking rationally not depressed like I was prior. I think the work is worth the money buying a 1996 and on Tahoe is usually 3-6k. It is definitely a worth while investment. I want this truck to reach at least 250,000 miles at that point I will fully recondition her and maybe upgrade to the 4L65e.
12-01-2012, 09:10 AM #34
Well so that sounds like you want to fix her then, didnt you say u didnt want to. and i still think that you should get brand new heads, or rebuild them dont just throw away the tahoe.1994 GMC Yukon, 2 door, Victory Red: 1992 Buick Park Avenue
Garage Link: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...1994-GMC-Yukon
12-01-2012, 04:13 PM #35
12-01-2012, 08:25 PM #36
Funny how a girl friend can do that
I see your long list, don't get me wrong, I'm not arguing about doing it, just thinking of tossing out a suggestion.
If the plug had not broken, you would have be happy to have continued to drive it, for awhile, without tackling the long list. If money is tight while your in school, why don't you consider tackling the one head and repairing it?
I suggest that, only if the plugs will come out of the other side.
Pulling a head is not a "big" job. Get in, fix it and put it back together. and do the other things later. Worse case is purchasing a 2nd set of gaskets when you tackle the "big" list.Ray
'09 Avalanche LTZ - Black
'05 Envoy XL (sold)
12-01-2012, 09:04 PM #37
I plan on just doing heads for now and of course fixing those damned plugs! The flush is just convinince because the coolang has to come out any way.
Had the plugs gone in as planned I would've then acouple weeks later had done the fuel filter and the flush so I could install the block heater because I need it on those cold mornings.
12-01-2012, 10:02 PM #38
- Join Date
- Apr 2010
- Piermont,NY, back in Northern NJ now, But may be in IL soon....
Sounds like a GTG time08 Z71 Avalanche Mods to date: K&N CAI,Hellwig Swaybars and End Links, Corsa Sport Exhaust, Superchips Programer,IPCW LOF & 3rd brake light and tails, AMI Gas door,Show Hooks and Door locks, Enkei Wheels, with Pirelli tires, StreetScene Bowties, Grant Steering wheel,Muth signal mirrors,SSBC Big Brake kit,Huskyliner Mug gards,Floor mats and Hood shield, McGard Lug nuts and locks, Bedrug, Cervini's Ram Air hood,35watt HID Fog lights, Sylvania bulbs all around ZXE's Highs and Lows, WhiteNight Back up lights,Sirius and HD Radio, SnugTop sitting on deck now Got a Softopper on now,Tempress Boat Hatches.... New Bilstein shocks are on... New Mods coming soon..... X
12-02-2012, 02:21 PM #39
12-02-2012, 03:34 PM #40
Hey Conlan, I was thinking of your problem this morning. Was watching Power Block TV, one of the ads was for a new WD40 product that is supposed to penetrate when aluminum and iron/steel are seized.
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