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  1. #11

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    New ones won't hurt at all, good insurance.

    You can usually tell the condition by feel, a new hose will be firm through out it's length a questionable hose will feel soft and mushy.
    Ray

    '09 Avalanche LTZ - Black
    '05 Envoy XL (sold)

  2. #12

    Default

    Here's the pics after I removed the shroud. I also took pics around the water pump because I cant tell if it may also have a leak from a gasket. All new parts minus the radiator will be AC Delco. Well bringing it to operating temp the truck didn't start cooling its self until after 210 so I think the thermometer is done.


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    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by RayVoy View Post
    New ones won't hurt at all, good insurance.

    You can usually tell the condition by feel, a new hose will be firm through out it's length a questionable hose will feel soft and mushy.
    They all feel firm very firm and they are factory AC Delco. I'm very impressed. To be honest having many problems while approaching a major maintenance interval isn't bad. Currently at 197,500+ miles.

    1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
    Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.

    Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door

  3. #13

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    There is some rust around the water pump, but (from here) it looks dry, the wet areas seem to be around the rad.

    That rad looks like it's still in good shape, but (unlike the old copper) if it's leaking, it can't be fixed
    Ray

    '09 Avalanche LTZ - Black
    '05 Envoy XL (sold)

  4. #14

    Default

    I don't have a problem replacing it because it is easy to do and heck I get a new part out of it. There is surface rust on the water pump, but it still looks solid. It looked damp but might just be the weep hole.
    My total on amazon for parts is $213.82 and free 2 day shipping for all but the radiator.

    Radiator $98.25
    Coolant hose $20.89
    Coolant hose $11.59
    Coolant hose $23.58
    Block heater $17.84
    Radiator cap $11.93
    Coolant temp sensor $14.47
    Thermostat $15.32
    Coolant will be $15.99 a gallon

    Total will be like $265 which isn't bad.
    Last edited by Conlan Rose; 12-06-2012 at 06:09 PM.

    1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
    Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.

    Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door

  5. #15

    Default

    I've never done the temp sensor or thermo and don't even know where they live, as I'm somewhat engine stupid. PM me instructions on where to look. I know they go bad and are cheap, so it'd be nice to know where to find the thing, as I'll probably pick up a spare given my 143k miles.

    Oh, and when I did my radiator I was shocked at 16 bucks a gallon for unmixed coolant. When the heck did it get so expensive?! (I was appalled at mixed coolant going for 14 bucks a gallon; it's half water!)

  6. #16

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    Well for cheap stuff its 8 a gallon mixed. But for quality coolant it costs a decent amount. I'm not sure where the thermostat is but the coolant sensor on 90's trucks is above the exhaust manifold on the driver side. I have a pic I think.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
    Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.

    Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door

  7. #17

    Default

    My Mom's 95 Sierra the thermostat is on the engine side of the top radiator hose under the goose-neck that the hose connects to. On mine "2002 Silverado with the 5.3" it is on the engine side but the bottom hose. I hope this helps.....


    2002 Chevrolet Silverado Extended Cab SportSide: See Mods in My Garage

  8. #18

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by donyms View Post
    My Mom's 95 Sierra the thermostat is on the engine side of the top radiator hose under the goose-neck that the hose connects to. On mine "2002 Silverado with the 5.3" it is on the engine side but the bottom hose. I hope this helps.....
    Yep, follow the top hose to the motor. You will see the housing there. 15 minute job. Well, with your luck.... nevermind

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  9. #19

    Default

    So the fitting that goes in to the engine. I assume I will need a new gasket as well. Only two things are kinda in the way: the throttle cables and the A/C line. So really with flushing, mixing, install and prep this shouldn't take more than 3 hours.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
    Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.

    Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door

  10. #20

    Default

    That is it. That is the thermostat housing. Just unbolt it, Make sure that you pay attention to how the old tstat is in you don't want to put the new one in the wrong way, clean up the housing really well, clean up the engine surface well, Put some rtv on both surfaces, a new gasket and bolt it back together. Really should take an hour at most including flushing it. When you have the thermostat out you can run your garden hose thru the radiator. It will flush a lot of the crap out of your motor because no thermostat is holding the water back. After you get clean water coming out, put your new tstat in and refill the radiator with straight coolant. When I worked in the garage we would do the flush until clear water came out of the motor. Then we could drain the radiator and fill it with straight coolant. The Water in the motor will mix with the straight coolant and give you a 50/50 mix.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

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