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Thread: Electrical Work.
04-07-2013, 05:58 PM #51
Very odd; but, I haven't had one apart to look at it (might crawl under the dash tomorrow).
I assume, the top shaft is the pedal piviot shaft; the rod (you speak of) and the switch are both on the lower shaft. Meaning, the switch and the rod move together. Gotta get under for a look.Ray
'09 Avalanche LTZ - Black
'05 Envoy XL (sold)
04-07-2013, 07:08 PM #52
I will try to take pictures tomorrow. I think the 95-98/99 trucks had this system because they needed to integrate the new ABS systems in and such.
1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.
Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door
05-05-2013, 04:44 PM #53
I forgot to take the brake pedal pics, but recently I began my big three upgrade and the truck seems very happy. The voltage gauge now reads 1.5~2 volts higher at temperature than it was reading before.
Alt lead is 1/0 AWG Knukoncept Fleks Kable which is 100% tinned Oxygen Free Copper
Fuse box leads are 4 AWG of Knukoncept Fleks
Terminals are Lynx Made in the USA.
Cable lugs are from Pico and 100% copper.
Here are some pics:
The cable routing
More routing and a picture of the big fuse to fuse block cable
More of the Aux fuse box.
Factory fuse box lead and original battery terminal that was too small.
1/0 awg Alternator lead and more routing.
Negative terminal which the bolt was upgraded
More of the battery terminals
Used the factory routing for the factory fuse box lead. Also the new terminals.
Need to take more pics with the new terminals installed.
05-14-2013, 07:37 AM #54
I can't get pictures of the brake switch because it is hidden behind a metal plate. Yesterday I tried to fix my driver power window that wont work and also checked all my DRL components because my DRLs don't work.
Any Ideas on why either don't work.
05-14-2013, 04:17 PM #55
I doubt if they are related.
A common problem with the wiring in the driver's door, is the movement at the door hinge. The constant flexing of the wires will cause the odd one to break inside the insulation.
05-14-2013, 05:22 PM #56
Makes sense, but then why would I get clicking in the button?
05-14-2013, 07:09 PM #57
05-14-2013, 08:18 PM #58
Yes all the other switches work. The switch literally clicks when I hold it down. I see no voltage drop like the other switches when they reach the end of their motion when I keep holding them. Maybe it is the motor.
Are any components in the door sensitive to hard shocks like slamming the door really hard.
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