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  1. #1

    Question Tahoe Leaking Coolant

    Ok, so after having my plugs done the shop noticed over night the truck made a stain on the floor of coolant. They said it my be the radiator ot the lower hose. Tomorrow I will investigate it further.
    Any who I may need a new radiator and hoses. I will also replace the thermometer, radiator cap and coolant temp sensor because they are being crazy going from 170-210+ within seconds back and forth. I also will install my block heater and do a full coolant flush to get rid of deposits that would effect the heater or new parts. I then will refill with Prestone Dex-Cool mixing the 50/50 ratio my self.

    The leak only happens after the truck is turned off because it drips when the radiator is under pressure. Once pressure is loss the coolant stops leaking.

    If any one has any pointers or idea please help out. Also even tho I dont belive in stop leak I might use it to get through the next few month any suggestions on what works and is safe after using it your self.

    1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
    Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.

    Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door

  2. #2

    Default

    I wouldn't use stop leak to get home. The wrecker would cost less in the long run!

    First thing is to get down ther and see where it is leaking. Without knowing that there is no way to help out on this... Coolant can leak from ANYWHERE!
    "It went together didn't it? Well then there has to be a way to take it apart!" - Me.

    Check out my image gallery HERE.



    "The true measure of a man is how he treats someone who can do him absolutely no good." ~Samuel Johnson (1709-1784)

  3. #3

    Default

    You might get lucky on this one. I know that you could use a break. If it has the original clamps, it might just be a clamp.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  4. #4

    Default

    Yup, if it's a hose or a clamp it's a cheap and quick fix. If it's the radiator, itself, it'll cost more but still isn't a huge outlay of cash or time.
    Last edited by SurrealOne; 12-06-2012 at 08:49 PM.

  5. #5

    Default

    What ever it is, you should hope that it is not a radiator, cuz that would be about 200 maybe more, cuz i think mine was about 200 when i hit my deer. But if it is hoses your in the clear, and if you havent drove it home yet, i would suggest just getting a couple gallons of water, and that should get you home with out using stop leak, but the thing is you would have to stop every once in a while and put more in probably.
    1994 GMC Yukon, 2 door, Victory Red
    Garage Link: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...1994-GMC-Yukon

  6. #6

    Default

    Conlan, as you already know it is way to cold where you live to run straight water. you would have to put coolant in it and run it long enough to get it into the block before night fall. I am sure that you have gotten it home already though

  7. #7

    Default

    It is the radiator.. Well from what I can tell. Coolant is cheap I always keep extra in the truck and keep the reservoir topped off. Radiator for my truck is only about 100 on amazon. Then its another 90 for the other replacement parts. Will need to buy coolant at 16 per gal of full strength. I would never run water in the truck its an iron block it would destroy it with in days.

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Conlan Rose View Post
    It is the radiator.. Well from what I can tell. Coolant is cheap I always keep extra in the truck and keep the reservoir topped off. Radiator for my truck is only about 100 on amazon. Then its another 90 for the other replacement parts. Will need to buy coolant at 16 per gal of full strength. I would never run water in the truck its an iron block it would destroy it with in days.
    If it's leaking where the tank is crimped on you can remove the radiator, set a pair of vise grips to close at the right size to re crimp the tank. The rubber seal shrinks over time and can be tightened up bt re-crimping. I only found out you could do this from the guy who delivered my new radiator from 1-800-radiator. (which I highly recommend)....Al

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Conlan Rose View Post
    Coolant is cheap I always keep extra in the truck and keep the reservoir topped off.
    If your carrying it in the truck, add the water to it before you put the jug in the truck (unless your buying it pre-mixed). Mix it 1:1, and pour it in from the bottle.

    Not only is this convenient, you are only using 1/2 of the coolant, and mixed 1:1, you are getting the best protection.
    Ray

    '09 Avalanche LTZ - Black
    '05 Envoy XL (sold)

  10. #10

    Default

    The stuff for emergencies is premixed, The stuff I will put in after replacing will be full strength that I will mix prior to install.
    I will post pics I took maybe you guys will see something I don't. The hoses look great and feel strong, but after 18 years I don't think new ones will hurt.

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