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  1. #1

    Default 08 silverado throttle body

    2008 Silverado 4.8L 68000km

    About a month ago I felt some minor hesitation from a stopped and nearly stopped position. A couple weeks after that I was driving around town and the CEL came on and a message that said "reduced engine power." I checked the codes and got P1516 and p2135. I disconnected the battery, cleaned the MAF sensor, checked for loose wires on the plug into the throttle body (no apparent loose connections) and scrubbed all the gunk around the inside of the throttle body and removed as much of the carbon as I could.

    Ran good for a couple weeks then checked the codes again and there was code P0121 but was running fine, ignored it, checked again a couple nights later and no codes displayed in my code reader.

    A couple days ago I noticed a strange ratcheting sound. I only noticed the sound when I was nearly stopped or any low idle situation. It would stay on for a few seconds then disappear so it was very hard to locate exactly but sounded like it was from under the hood.

    Then today upon starting up my truck after work the CEL came on - checked codes when I got home and got P1516.

    Iím thinking that sound might be the actuator itself and that all these codes are directly related to the throttle body itself rather that other possibilities such as a loose ground (g104, g104) or the pig-tail itself.

    Iím thinking about replacing the throttle body as my next step.

    What you think?

    Cheers
    Jay

  2. #2

    Default

    Welcome to the club, Jay. I doubt the throttlebody is bad. I would remove the throttlebody and give both sides a good cleaning with throttlebody cleane and a soft toothbrush.
    :cool:

    2005 Chevy Silverado Z71 Crew Cab
    6" Skyjacker lift w/Edlebrock dual front remote resoviour shocks, single rear remote. Rancho skid-plate.
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    4.10 PercisionGears w/factory locker, T/A Performance rear-end cover
    Banks CAI intake, ported throttlebody, JBA coated headers, over-sized Magnaflow cats, Magnaflow cat back exhaust, Diablo tuned
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    One black Lab in rear seat.
    :glasses:

  3. #3

    Default

    More than likely the throttle body needs to be replaced. But there are TSB's for PCM reflash or PCM replacement.

  4. #4
    Sr. Engineer
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    Dec 2011
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    Default

    two part

    ---------- Post added at 09:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:40 PM ----------


  5. #5

    Default

    Thanks guys!

    I did do a pretty good wiggle test and there was nothing obviously loose or broken but I will take another look. I did give the throttle body a good cleaning when I did my MAF sensor. There wasn't much gunk or carbon in there but gave it a good scrubbing with a toothbrush non-the-less.

    Thanks Johnb - haven't tried that yet

    those vids where great! a while back I looked for that wiring kit and was hoping I could just fix it on my own but wasn't sure how to take that connector apart.

    Thanks everyone. I'm having a mechanic friend hook it up to his computer and see if there's anything wrong there.

    Cheers
    JAy

  6. #6
    Sr. Engineer
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    Default

    If you find nothing wrong ... a weak battery will cause this ..or corroded terminals.

  7. #7

    Default

    Thats great info dipstick! Thanks.

  8. #8
    Legend

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    Default

    I can attest for the corrosion robbing power to the engine, not just the terminals either follow the lines all over the truck, includings ground points.
    99 K1500 Suburban LT "THE BEAST"
    Hypertech III, K&N, true dual
    285/75/16
    ___________________________
    Jason

  9. #9
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    Default

    I can't watch the video because my computer is slow, but what exactly are you going to do to that connector? Only reason I ask is because those metri-pak crimps are very easy to damage and then you will have problems, I have the MSD crimpers to make the oem connectors and I save a lot of money making all my own stuff. That connector at the dealer is probably a good $100 or more I bet, Summit Racing carry's the proper tools to get those terminals loose. They have two locking tabs one on top and one on bottom, If you break either tab that wire will back out when you push it back together. If you've never done one I wouldn't recommend doing it on your truck, good luck!!

  10. #10

    Default

    So I went to the mechanic which was really no help. His scope was only set up for vehicles up to 97 so all he did was clear the code and told me because I cleaned around the throttle body I need to get it relearned.

    Battery and alternator are fine.

    I’m not going to do anything with that connector into the throttle body until I at least have a chance to test the voltages coming in and out of the throttle body and the continuity of the wire-to-terminal.

    What’s really bugging me is that ratcheting sound from under the hood. I was thinking it was maybe the ABS but I’m about 98% sure it’s not. It like most problems I’m having is intermitted. I drove around the city all day yesterday and it didn’t make the sound once but this morning I ran into town for a coffee and it’s back. It’s only at the low idle situations like at a red light or pulling into my driveway where it makes it. It makes the sound for a few minutes then disappears. Also, if it’s making the sound and I shut the motor off it stays of for a second then goes away. I’m still thinking it’s that actuator motor itself. I’m gonna try and get it on video so you can hear it.

    Thanks!!
    Jay

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