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Thread: EGR inspection

  1. #1
    Jr. Engineer Jamm3r's Avatar
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    Dec 2012
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    Minneapolis area
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    Default EGR inspection

    GM apparently recommends cleaning and inspecting the EGR valve every 60,000 miles.

    Does anyone do this? Does it make a difference?
    Minneapolis area - 1997 K2500 regular cab long bed + 8.5' Western Unimount plow + modified transmission + 2nd battery + modified camper charge circuit + 1971 Cayo camper -and- 2004 4x4 Suburban 2500 8.1 + Maxbrake controller + 2nd battery + modified trailer charge circuit + Reese receiver, pulls 30' Airstream trailer

  2. #2
    Sr. Engineer
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Default

    If they get stuck closed the worst you'll get is a check engine light. If they get stuck in the open position your life will be misserable (sp). Bad EGRs have been chased around this forum disguised as many other problems.
    I do not check them on a regular basis but thinking back on some drivability issues I will make a point to do just that. Thanks for bringing that back to the front of my mind.
    2000 GMC YUKON SLT, 5.3L tow pkg, G80 rear/w 3.73 gear

  3. #3

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    What can a bad EGR valve cause? Also how do you clean and inspect it.

    1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
    Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.

    Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Conlan Rose View Post
    What can a bad EGR valve cause? Also how do you clean and inspect it.
    Rough idle and acceleration problems are the usual symptoms of a bad EGR valve. As for inspection and cleaning ... because it recirculates exhaust gasses, the EGR valve accumulates carbon buildup. Enough of this and it can block the valve open/closed and cause the symptoms I previously mentioned. Dismantling the EGR valve, cleaning it with solvent such as carb cleaner or seafoam, and then regreasing and reassembling it can rectify this.

  5. #5

    Default

    Thanks @SurrealOne, I will do that this spring and see if it helps Tahoe out. Sadly the EGR is in the way of one of my hose clamps so I was unable to replace a hose when I did my radiator replacement.

    1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
    Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.

    Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door

  6. #6

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    I took mine off of my 01 s10, which at the time had 90,000 miles. I had an EVAP code, so I took it off and found that the pintle had stuck open. I soaked it in carb cleaner, and reinstalled it and it ran alot better and the code never came back. It was loaded with carbon.

    http://s1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/noell1947/pbr%20time/
    2004 Chevy Colorado 2wd/4l60e/3.5 Inline 5
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  7. #7

    Default

    I will have to see if this truck has one. My 02 and 03 did not. If it does I will go buy the gasket ($4) and clean it.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  8. #8
    Jr. Engineer Jamm3r's Avatar
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    I looked around and it sure doesn't look like my 2004 8.1 has one. I got the inspection recommendation from a Hayes book that has extremely poor coverage for the 8.1 so it may not apply. I have not checked my 1997 5.7 yet.
    Minneapolis area - 1997 K2500 regular cab long bed + 8.5' Western Unimount plow + modified transmission + 2nd battery + modified camper charge circuit + 1971 Cayo camper -and- 2004 4x4 Suburban 2500 8.1 + Maxbrake controller + 2nd battery + modified trailer charge circuit + Reese receiver, pulls 30' Airstream trailer

  9. #9

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    Here is the EGR on the 5.7L Vortec engine. Not my best circle.... Mine is in the way of a hose clamp...
    Click image for larger version. 

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    1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
    Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.

    Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door

  10. #10
    Sr. Apprentice
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
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    1391 N Jefferson St., Anaheim CA 92807
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    hi everyone
    Main causes of bad EGR valve is buildup of carbon, soot and other deposits, and heat, which causes metal, like springs, to break or lose strength
    your EGR valve soak in cleaner overnight you need to clean its passages, openings and surfaces with a small brush. Toothbrushes and pipe cleaners are great.When hand cleaning, be sure to use chemical resistant gloves and EYE PROTECTION. Carb cleaner is nasty stuff. Basically, you want to clean everything you can reach with your cleaning brushes.

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