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  1. #1

    Default ticking sound on a 6.0

    I know you guy's have talked about this some where, I noticed that a strong ticking sound up in the intake area. I'm wondering if the wrist pins are doing this or it is the rockers. It sound like more than one, but it does have 173000 miles on it. Is it time to get a long block or this a week end job?????

    - - - Updated - - -

    After reading simular threads, which was located at the bottom of this post; Seams to be a problem in these 6.0's..

    Now do they or have they come up with correct way of correcting this problem??

  2. #2
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    Default

    All GM engines do this but you didn't mention when, is it just when it's cold or all the time?
    99 K1500 Suburban LT "THE BEAST"
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  3. #3

    Default

    I have seen some ticking cleared up by using a good oil filter. I have worked on trucks that were ticking pretty badly and running a fram filter, changed the filter and the tick was decreased significantly. In my opinion AC filters are the way to go. It is a long shot, but a cheap fix if that is your issue.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
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  4. #4

    Default

    I researched this in the past as my 6.0l does it also... Slight ticking at idle. I was told that it is due to solid lifters... Your only way around it would be to pull the valve covers and adjust the valve gap back to specifications.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by TimTom64b View Post
    I researched this in the past as my 6.0l does it also... Slight ticking at idle. I was told that it is due to solid lifters... Your only way around it would be to pull the valve covers and adjust the valve gap back to specifications.
    I did some research... And from what I can find the 6.0l utilized hydraulic lifters with roller rockets. Anyway if the ticking is bothering... I would suggest adjusting your valve gaps. It's an easy process just time consuming.
    2009 Chevy Silverado 2500HDLT 6.0L w/ Towing Package, Dick Cepek GM8 Rims, Dick Cepek FC II 33X11.50R17,RKSport Ram-Air Hood(Functional), Lazer Lite Aluminum Tonneau Cover, Road Armor Stealth Bumper, PIAA Lighting, Diablo Trinity Tuner, Diablew Custom Tune, BullyDog Cold Air Intake, American Racing Headers w/highflow cats, Corsa Performance Sport Exhaust, Custom Striping, Black Bowties front and rear, Fuel Grille Inserts, Recon Headlights, Readylift Shocks, Readylift Upper Contol Arms, 2" Blocks in the Rear..

    Future Plans: HD Tie Rods, Under hood upgrades, Crower Camshaft and possibly electric fans.

  5. #5
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    Default

    Out of curiosity, when the "ticking" sound is happening, is any damage occurring or is this benign and just an annoyance? I've seen many threads talk about the causes and possible solutions, but can't remember if anyone mentioned if this could cause or is causing any harm to the engine.


    Mike (Denver, CO) - 2008 Sierra 1500 Z71 SLE 5.3L 4WD

    SUSPENSION: Rancho 4" Suspension Lift; Rancho RS9000XL Shocks; Rancho Skid Plates; Rancho MyRide Wireless Shock Controller;
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  6. #6

    Default

    For daily driving its more of an annoyance... If your looking best performance, fuel economy etc. Exact valve time is important to ensure and efficiently running engine. I believe the worst that could happen is if it was way off and I mean way off and you like to run the engine really hard you could bend one of the push rods.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimTom64b View Post
    For daily driving its more of an annoyance... If your looking best performance, fuel economy etc. Exact valve time is important to ensure and efficiently running engine. I believe the worst that could happen is if it was way off and I mean way off and you like to run the engine really hard you could bend one of the push rods.
    Good to know...I'm sure others will find this explanation useful as well. Thanks!

  8. #8

    Default

    You sure you dont have a bust exhaust manifold stud, or 7? These 6.0's were known to snap the heads off and the leak sounds alot like valve ticking due to timing and location. Almost all 6.0's that were not newish I have seen had at least 1 broken stud if not a handful.
    01' 1500 LT Z71 ECSB 5.3L
    line-x'd front brush guard with KC Daylighters, 6000k HID lows and highs, rewired highbeams, Trans-go mild shift kit, custom stainless duals, 3500 dually OEM taillights, K&N CAI. Still have OEM fender flairs and leveling kit in boxes waiting for time.


  9. #9
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    Default

    I have a similar sound. Found broken stud on driver's side exhaust manifold. Of course it is the very back one. Anyone replaced theirs before? Any tips/tricks? Upgraded studs?
    2003 Chevy 1500HD 4x4

  10. #10

    Default

    You will need a hot torch but the best way we found in the shop was to torch all the heads off then heat the cylinder head right at the stud and use stud grippers (sockects with rollers inside) to apply tension and start unscrewing once the torch heats it enough. Sounds complicated and it is a 2 man job as you have to heat as you remove them but is by far the easiest way. Do all on both sides and replace with nice strong SS bolts and touch of med thread locker and all is well.

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