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01-01-2013, 03:00 AM #1
99 Suburban repair and performance questions
During our recent trip to AZ, I came up with some questions about the Burb. You guys are the best, so I'll start here.
The gas guage went bonkers somewhere in Nebraska - I had an issue with the sending unit years ago, but I actually heard the gauge buzzing and the panel was warm. I've seen repair options for the newer model trucks, but is there a fix for my era? The voltmeter bounces with turn signals, too.
The 60/40, middle row, rear access seat is sometimes difficult to actuate. I took it apart and found that the pin and cam are worn. Is there a repair kit for the pin, or should I just tack weld it and round it out again?
I've seen the programmers for the newer trucks. Monitor on the dash, OBDII port plug in, selectable tunes. Is there one for my era? I get decent mileage, for it's size, but would like to bump up the power before the next camper trip.
I'm well out of warranty, not the original owner, and we all know about the brakes on these Subs. Is there a fix/retrofit for the rear brakes / front ABS / proportioning valve? Would a power steering / brake fluid flush help the hydoboost? What about aftermarket or synthetic fluid? This was on my list of maintenance before the trip, but didn't get to it.
Thanks for your time,
1999 Chevy K2500 Suburban 350
K&N, reworked cai, Thrush cat-backs
Vinyl, cranks, floor shift, and rear air!
01-01-2013, 08:59 AM #2
the dash problem could be bad corroded grounds. check all esp on the frame rail next to fuel tank and under the driver seat.
the brakes if you have drum brakes replace the drums and shoes. if the shoes are worn at the top and not at the bottom the drum is too big. replace the brake fluid by opening the bleed screw and push back the front calipers to dump out the contaminated fluid then bleed with the same OEM type brake fluid .
the engine and transmission should be with synthetic fluids.
the transmission should have dexronVI this is a synthetic now GM spec fluid. dexron III is now no longer the recommended fluid by GM for your vehicle.
01-01-2013, 11:42 AM #3
Thanks for the info, j cat. I'm hoping to pull the truck into the bay today, and check all that wiring stuff. If it's just a dirty ground, that would be awesome.
The brakes have been a pain forever. I see info here, and the rest of the net, that the rears are just a problem with this era. Sometimes the front ABS is just too sensitive, sometimes the rears just fall out of adjustment. We've had them off countless times, and everything looks in spec, but it may be time for new hardware. The right e-brake cable has rusted up for the second time, too. We cut it out and the replacement is pending, as is the fluid change.
My cousin-in-law owns a Tuffy, and tells me he uses syn-blend oils in my truck. I don't question him I will bring up the dexron VI, though.
01-02-2013, 06:19 AM #4
The instrument clusters suck on these trucks, I am about to install the a second one on my beast, the first one I had the dealership put in lasted about 60k, the, stepper motors are the problem there are shops around the country that say they can update the motors for less then a factory unit but then you have to pay the shipping and you do all labor, price varies on what you want done, the dealership is about 300 or so installed as for the breaks I would recommend replacing the break lines with braided stainless steel, you can find kits, that will at least stop rubber lines from expanding, as far as swapping I do remember reading at some point you can swap discs to the rear from other GM vehicles, not sure where I read that though99 K1500 Suburban LT "THE BEAST"
Hypertech III, K&N, true dual
01-08-2013, 06:42 PM #5
Quicky update. I pulled the tank harness ground and wire-brushed it. My guage is back to that annoying flutter, but it seems to be accurate. When I get more time, I'll clean it down to bare metal and reterminate the ground.
While I was under there, I knocked a bunch of little stones out the fuel and brake lines, and sprayed everything with lube. I swear I'm gonna repaint the frame this spring...
01-11-2013, 10:47 AM #6
You need a new instrument panel. If there was an issue with the sender it would not keep accurate readings for the gauge. The dealership can also test it for you, they may be willing to waive the diagnostic if you agree to have them fix the panel, mine did that when I had mine replaced.
01-11-2013, 12:42 PM #7
Some of the older model trucks used stepper motors that did not require soldering to replace. You just pull the cluster, take the cover off, pull the needle and pop the stepper motor off, then put the new one on, and put it back together. You can find those stepper motors for around $12 online if you look around.
1995 Silverado 4x4
6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge
2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)
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