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  1. #1

    Default 1999 Suburban - I need and opinion (or two)

    I am looking at buying a 1999 Suburban for $6000. 1 owner and 92,000 mile on it. Here are the specs:


    Options Installed
    • Air Conditioning
    • Alloy Wheels
    • Anti-Lock Brakes
    • Cruise Control
    • Driver Air Bag
    • Leather Seats
    • Passenger Air Bag
    • Power Door Locks
    • Power Mirrors
    • Power Seats
    • Power Steering
    • Power Windows
    • Rear Window Defroster
    • Tilt Wheel
    • Tinted Glass





    Click image for larger version. 

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    I have yet to drive it, but as I currently own (and HATE) a 2002 Ford Expedition, I am looking to upgrade to the Suburban. Too much $$$? They are asking $6,999 but I believe that I can get it down to $6k.

    Let me know what you think with this limited amount of info. Thanks!
    Last edited by grond; 01-02-2013 at 09:40 AM. Reason: ADDED IMAGE

  2. #2

    Default

    you need to test drive it and see how it runs. I don't think you can price a car by picture.
    The picture shows a typical suburban. If I were you, I will try to find out more history of the car. It's seem to have under avg mileage for a 99, what's the reason? check the 4x4 feature and tranny. If it has leather, check for the condition. Most of them have pretty bad crack for that year model.

  3. #3
    Legend

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    Red Wing, Minnesota, United States
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    Default

    Don't judge by interior, some just take care of there's better then others. I have a 99 bought it with 67k on the clock and now have 157k all 5.7 vortecs will need a intake gasket replaced ($400)mine was done at 89k and no problems since, so see if that was done or not. The instrument panels had issues too. The gauges will become faulty as the stepper motors will go out, to replace a instrument panel from GM with the correct displayed mileage is roughly $300. I will be installing a second gauge cluster on mine in a couple weeks. Other then that its normal wear and tear. Just take in consideration as to where you live. Road salt?? Rust or corroded clear coat on the rims. These are good trucks and can run along time with normal maintenance, they can take a beating too. Make sure the air works, if you have to replace parts on that it adds up quickly as there is a secondary unit in the back of the truck.
    99 K1500 Suburban LT "THE BEAST"
    Hypertech III, K&N, true dual
    285/75/16
    ___________________________
    Jason

  4. #4
    Jr. Engineer Jamm3r's Avatar
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    Default

    What Jason said.

    You can spend a fortune on air conditioning repairs on these. The compressors from this era all leak eventually and the lines fail if exposed to salt, so be prepared for that.

    These have the 4L60e transmission which hold up OK as long as they haven't had a hard life (towing, plowing snow, mountains) but they cost around $3000 P&L to fix when the fail.

    The other common problems are fairly inexpensive to fix. In addition to what Jason has listed, you can expect to replace the headlight and turn signal housings since they cloud up, and the usual wear items for any vehicle of this age -- brakes, water pump, alternator, belts, hoses, ignition parts, etc.

    Price depends where you are and where the truck has been driven. They changed to the new body style for 2001 so you are looking at one of the last years for that body.
    Minneapolis area - 1997 K2500 regular cab long bed + 8.5' Western Unimount plow + modified transmission + 2nd battery + modified camper charge circuit + 1971 Cayo camper -and- 2004 4x4 Suburban 2500 8.1 + Maxbrake controller + 2nd battery + modified trailer charge circuit + Reese receiver, pulls 30' Airstream trailer

  5. #5

    Default

    Thanks for all the input! I live in Michigan, but the vehicle is from Texas, so there isn't any rust. The leather interior is a little rough, but isn't that why seat covers were invented?

    I was looking to use this vehicle to tow a smallish camper, is the tranny known for failure under load?

    I will make sure to test the air out, but it's kinda cold here right now...so testing hte air may be a little tricky.

  6. #6
    Jr. Engineer Jamm3r's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by grond View Post
    I was looking to use this vehicle to tow a smallish camper, is the tranny known for failure under load?
    Depends on size. I checked a couple of sources and the official towing capacity is around 6,500 pounds, possibly depending on axle ratio. My advice would be to seek out a 2500 burb with a 7.4 liter engine if you're towing 6,000 pounds or more on a regular basis especially if you will have a full load of people and stuff while doing it. They are harder to find but are more suited to the job.

    I will make sure to test the air out, but it's kinda cold here right now...so testing hte air may be a little tricky.[/QUOTE]

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by grond View Post
    I will make sure to test the air out, but it's kinda cold here right now...so testing hte air may be a little tricky.
    Try to get the dealer to park it in a heated garage for an hour or two so you can test the air, or take it to a mechanic you trust and have them hook up the gauges.
    Minneapolis area - 1997 K2500 regular cab long bed + 8.5' Western Unimount plow + modified transmission + 2nd battery + modified camper charge circuit + 1971 Cayo camper -and- 2004 4x4 Suburban 2500 8.1 + Maxbrake controller + 2nd battery + modified trailer charge circuit + Reese receiver, pulls 30' Airstream trailer

  7. #7
    Legend

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    I have never had a problem with the tranny. I have hauled plenty of cars with mine and I am not easy on my vehicles either. My brothers truck has almost 200k on his(2001 Silverado), my parents old suburban(I know the current owners) has 250k and I believe our old 98 s10 blazer has the same tranny and that has 200k on it, so between 4 family trucks we have 900k+ and not one issue!!

    - - - Updated - - -

    The one you are looking at will have a tow rating depending on gears 3.42 5k lbs or for 3.73 6k lbs.
    if you go to a 2500 it would be from 7k to 10k depending on engine and gear ratio. Just remember the 2500 is gonna be a much harsher ride when unloaded, and will REQUIRE specific load tires to handle the tow rating.
    The heaviest car I towed was a 2 door 95 Grand Prix GTP that was about 3300 lbs and a proper car hauling trailer that was 2100 lbs, I barely new it was there,may mpg did not drop on the hwy and the truck barely squatted.
    99 K1500 Suburban LT "THE BEAST"
    Hypertech III, K&N, true dual
    285/75/16
    ___________________________
    Jason

  8. #8

    Default

    I'm in MI, and my truck came from AZ or NV. I agree with the others - don't judge by appearance. Drive it, have a mech. look at it, do a VIN search. I have heard that some folks have found leaks in the ceiling from the luggage rack, so check for a musty smell. That does have real low miles, but some people buy them just to move a boat back and forth to the lake. Look for signs of accidents or frame damage.

    My truck is a 350 3/4t, and our camper is around 7k, and we just pulled it to AZ and back. It struggled in the mountains, but flat stuff was ok. I've done the intake, fuel filter, fuel pump x2, and am dealing with the gauges right now. The brakes are an issue, but a different system than yours. No trouble, yet, with the a/c's.

    Without checking, the price doesn't sound bad, but make your counter offer lower and work back to your comfortable price. It's still a big truck, gas is still expensive in Michigan, and it's "old". They want to get rid of it, and they didn't pay what they're asking for it.

    Good luck,

    1999 Chevy K2500 Suburban 350
    K&N, reworked cai, Thrush cat-backs
    Vinyl, cranks, floor shift, and rear air!

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