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  1. #1

    Default Winter weather giving its beating.

    First of all the purpose of this thread is more a vent and input of thoughts than anything. My 2003 Cadillac Escalade EXT has seen its 6th winter here in NY. Obviously its exposed to the salt and other chemicals of the road and we all know how corrosive to vehicles they are. I can not believe that the engineers at the automakers do not take some simple steps to help prevent some of this corrosion from occuring. I know they count on it rotting your vehicle away so you turn around and buy a new one. Well if thats the answer in a nutshell then I guess all my venting here will and does fall on deaf ears.
    After only 2 winters (45k miles)my power steering line rotted out right where it is bent and then welded to the pump itself. Had to buy a whole new pump because the line was not replaceable. Transmission lines rotted out (65k miles) right underneath the starter because all of the windshield water is drained right onto the starter then lands on the lines. My starter looks like a cylinder of rust but so far has not been an issue.. YET. After 6 winters of driving I just had to replace 2 brake lines that rotted out right where they are attached to the frame with a clip and are bent. Now on a $50k+ vehicle(in 03) you would think that maybe stainless lines would be a nice stock upgrade.... NOT. I continually washed the vehicle the first 3-4 years in the winter and that has not seemed to make a difference. I did an oil spray before the first winter that I cannot say did or did not help prevent corrosion. Hey GM how about painting the exposed backside of the sheet metal under the vehicle. Or at least coating it with something.. My new 11' Silverado was plain steel on the floorboards except for a little red overspray. So I guess its left up to the consumer to "undercoat" the vehicle if they live in such an area. Well I would like some input on how well undercoating works to the point where you would not be able to tell that someone drives a vehicle in the winter. I saw @TimTom64b the other day and remembered he had undercoated his truck as he went by covered in road grime. Then was kinda happy to see him pull into the car wash to clean it all off. TT I would be curious to know how well your undercoating you had used worked for you in the spring as far as keeping the cancer away. I dont want to drive the phantom in the winter but there may come a time that I might have to and Im dreading the day it first has to see a snowy road. Been sitting in the same spot since the first week in November. Im waiting for dry roads to give it a ride around the block.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    2011 Silverado CrewCab 5.3L*Ram Air Look Cowl Induction Reflexxion Hood*6" Pro Comp Lift*Flowmaster Dual exhaust*Perfect Launch Rear Diff. Cover*Led Smoke Taillights*L.E.D.Smoke 3rd Brakelight*60" L.E.D. Tailgate Bar*Rearview Mirror Reverse Camera and Sensors*Smoke Headlight Covers*Front Bumper Grill Insert*Deezee Black Alum. Diamond Rail covers*20" Ultra Motorsports Rims wrapped with 35.5"B.F. Goodrich Tires*Inchannel Raingaurds*CAI*Bullydog GT Tuner*Alpine Amp*Boss 6x9's*Boston Acoustic Subs*Terrantula Tweeters*Custom Sub box*Red Led Interior Accents*5% Ultimacool duo tint rear window and doors, 20% front doors*Custom Vinyl Graphics*Demolded*Debadged*Painted drums and calipers*
    Future Mods Include: Custom Interior Hydrographics, Electronic Rollup Toneau Cover, 4.56 Gears, Painted rear bumper

  2. #2

    Default

    Keeping the rust off here in NY takes real dilligence... I believe I have come up with the right combination of things this year... it is more of a layered approach. Heres what I have come up with: 1. need to seal the paint... they have specific products for this not just a wax. I put two heavy coats of sealer on with a mechanical orbital device before winter, 2. cleaned the underside as well as I could ans applied rust encapsulation paint to any visible rust, 3. applied heavy duty undercoating to the complete underside... not the rubberized junk but a quality undercoating with a heavy wax like properties. 4. applied rust inhibitor oil/spray inside of the doors and other panels. 5. Mudflaps... dont like the look but helps keep the crap off. They are easily removed in the spring. 7. stock tires and rims go back on for the winter. Then when Spring comes Ill go thru all the steps again as I ready it for the summer. I know this seems like allot of effort but its not really that bad... takes me about two weekends to get it done. Allot of people nave multiple vehicles... but if I did that I wouldnt have the extra cash to buy all the accessories....
    2009 Chevy Silverado 2500HDLT 6.0L w/ Towing Package, Dick Cepek GM8 Rims, Dick Cepek FC II 33X11.50R17,RKSport Ram-Air Hood(Functional), Lazer Lite Aluminum Tonneau Cover, Road Armor Stealth Bumper, PIAA Lighting, Diablo Trinity Tuner, Diablew Custom Tune, BullyDog Cold Air Intake, American Racing Headers w/highflow cats, Corsa Performance Sport Exhaust, Custom Striping, Black Bowties front and rear, Fuel Grille Inserts, Recon Headlights, Readylift Shocks, Readylift Upper Contol Arms, 2" Blocks in the Rear..

    Future Plans: HD Tie Rods, Under hood upgrades, Crower Camshaft and possibly electric fans.

  3. #3

    Default

    I live in CT and the road has been kind to my Tahoe after 17 CT winters the truck only has rust on its frontal frame and it is all surface. The fuel tank shield is almost totally rotted out, my rear axle and suspension need some surface rust removal but it really isn't that bad. One brake line rotted out and burst before I owned the truck, but it was replaced. I'm not sure what GM uses compared to what they used to use on the undersides of trucks, but the stuff they used to use is great and lasts. This summer when the truck gets repainted I will remove the frame rust and repaint with the best stuff I can find.

    My mom's 2009 Forester has a boat load of rust on the exhaust system and it is beginning to rot out.

    1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
    Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.

    Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door

  4. #4

    Default

    I have heard many horror stories about the Northern winters and how bad the rust becomes. When I have been up north it seems there are a lot more newer vehicles drivings around, I guess to the 10+ years old vehicles are too rusted out by then unless the owner as done the necessary maintenance to protect the metal.

    But all I have to say is thank goodness for Southern winters
    2002 Chevy Silverado & 1995 Ford Bronco

    02 Silverado: 50K miles, 20" Motto Rims, Flowmaster 50 Series
    95 Bronco: 160K miles, 4" Superlift, 33/12.5/15 Mickey Thompson
    01 Civic: 75K miles, DD
    -Erik



  5. #5

    Default

    my 94 has some surface rust underneath but nothing all the way through. For being 17 years old, it looks good. My cab corners are shot and need to be replace. This summer I wire wheeled all the rust and painted with a "rust eliminating" paint I got from Autozone. Lets just say rust eliminating my a$$. Will have to redo this spring.

    My buddy for his 05 bonneville, uses a mix of wax and a small portion of mineral spirits. The mineral spirits make it thin enough to spray out of a bottle. He applies about two or three coats a year and say it's been working good.
    -K&N Air Filter


  6. #6

    Default

    My 96 Suburban was the cleanest, most pretty on the underside. Any new was always very surprise that it was so clean. I life in MA, and we get some pretty nasty weather in the winter as well... My trick? I would bring it to a drive thru car wash once a week, and splurge for "supreme wash" that included undercarriage, rust inhibitor, etc. One of the most clean trucks of that age you could find in my area... And all it took was a 20 car wash every week.
    00 Chevy Tahoe LT, 5.3 4x4

  7. #7
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    Default

    My S10 was driven since it was in the snow (12 years), It rotted out everything. Gas lines, break lines, PS lines, transmission lines, frame, on and on. Salty roads suck!

  8. #8

    Default

    I'm lucky that I live in an area where salt is not as much of a problem. But, I still undercoat my own trucks right after I buy them. I had a friend who had his dealership undercoat his new truck once. After seeing what a crappy job they did, I'll never have anyone do my trucks but me. Plus, I like the rear wheel well look with the black undercoat in it, which a dealership usually won't do. And the truck rides so much quieter and nicer undercoated properly.

  9. #9

    Default

    I live in middle MI and just recently purchased an 01 Silverado 1500 with only 86000 miles on it. Trucks been taken Out only for hunting and hauling a boat. Underside is beautiful for that year MI truck. Just minor suffice rust on frame and under body. This spring I will be using eastwoods rust encapsulater on the entire frame and body then there chassis black with ceramic mixed in. Only thing im not sure of is if I want to use bed armor with Kevlar or some other better spray paint to get in all the tight areas of the body.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Nargg View Post
    I'm lucky that I live in an area where salt is not as much of a problem. But, I still undercoat my own trucks right after I buy them. I had a friend who had his dealership undercoat his new truck once. After seeing what a crappy job they did, I'll never have anyone do my trucks but me. Plus, I like the rear wheel well look with the black undercoat in it, which a dealership usually won't do. And the truck rides so much quieter and nicer undercoated properly.
    What type of paint/primer do you use on the underbody?

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