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  1. #1

    Default Wandering 'Burban

    My 2002 'Burban LT 4wd has been wandering all over the road for a while now. Checked out the front suspension and steering, ended up replacing the pittman arm, idler arm, and idler arm bracket. All the other ball joints, tie rods, etc. ok. Had it re-aligned. Got better, but not 100% fixed. Tires were shot, put new ones on, got better, but still not 100% fixed.

    Now I'm thinking of replacing the rear suspension bushings. Anybody out there done that? Need any special tools? How hard is it? ("that's what she said")

    Or if you have any other ideas on what could be the problem... please let me know...
    '02 'Burban LT 4wd w/2013 Z71 18" wheels

    Lightly Modded '99 Regal GS

  2. #2

    Default

    What exactly do you mean by "all over the road?" Also, make sure your tires are properly inflated as well, because that's a commonly overlooked problem... How about your shocks? Are they the original?
    00 Chevy Tahoe LT, 5.3 4x4

  3. #3
    Jr. Engineer
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    eas' bum fuk, maine
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    Default

    agree... check your tire pressures first. i dont care if they were just put on, people still screw up. and new/better shocks could make a massive improvement. also if the roads you drive on are crappy, then your trucks gonna handle crappy.
    "i dont think you got the picture. i got a beautiful picture. this baby happens to have an extra turn of speed, which is the only thing i care about. you dont understnad what happens do you? they make cars. they make 'em exactly the same way. one or two of 'em turn out to be something special. nobody knows why. i know why. i may be kiddin' myself, but i think i can make somethin' out of that sad little bucket of bolts." ~ Tennessee Steinmetz

  4. #4
    Sr. Apprentice
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    Sep 2012
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    North Las Vegas
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    Default

    Do you have a rag joint or is it eliminated going to the steering gearbox from the steering wheel shaft?
    What do you have in your garage?
    02 Burb Z71/97 Blazer LT
    Nuttin but bowties!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Joshua T

  5. #5

    Default

    "all over the road"... Most of the time it pulls to the left. Especially under power, accellerating, etc. Then, sometimes it switches and wants to go to the right and I'm steering to the left to keep it straight.

    Tires are new, properly aired-up, just checked them.

    Shocks... Don't know. I've had the truck for 5 years and I have not changed them. They don't show any obvious signs of wear. No bouncing, etc.

    - - - Updated - - -

    JoshuaT: What's a "rag joint"?

  6. #6
    Jr. Engineer Jamm3r's Avatar
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    Dec 2012
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    Minneapolis area
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    240

    Default

    Problems showing up only while under power would indicate something worn in the rear axle. I'm assuming you have a 1500 'burb and I don't know a thing about the rear suspension in them so I can't help much.
    Minneapolis area - 1997 K2500 regular cab long bed + 8.5' Western Unimount plow + modified transmission + 2nd battery + modified camper charge circuit + 1971 Cayo camper -and- 2004 4x4 Suburban 2500 8.1 + Maxbrake controller + 2nd battery + modified trailer charge circuit + Reese receiver, pulls 30' Airstream trailer

  7. #7
    Sr. Apprentice
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    Default

    Look at your steering gearbox and see if you have a all metal joint between the steering wheel shaft and the gearbox. My s10 blazer had one and I replaced it twice until I replaced it with a rag joint eliminator. It's rubber and gives out over time but it's suppose to help eliminate the road vibrations.

    http://www.google.com/search?q=rag+j...w=1280&bih=709

    I hope this helps.

  8. #8
    Jr. Engineer
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    Default

    now does the '02 have the "panhard-bar" that goes lateraly from one frame rail to the rear axle? that would keep your rear axle inline with the vehicle (assuming your burb has rear coil springs) and if the bushings in that bar wear out it may allow your axle to move around and could cause a pull. for that matter if you have coil springs you also have somethign similer to a 4 link set up and any of those bushings could alow movment in the rear axle.

    does your problem happen on ANY and ALL roads or just a certain one? does it happen on both lanes of the road or just one? road condition realy does do weird things.

  9. #9

    Default

    I changed the entire rear arms on my yukon xl rather than just the bushings. I bought them from GMpartsdirect. It took about 2 weeks to get them from the company and one was damaged when it arrived. It was cheaper then buying the bushings and then having a shop press them in and out. It did tighten the truck up significantly. The lateral track bar made the most difference. It is not hard to do. Just be sure to have 2 floor jacks or at the least a set of jackstands and a floor jack. Take one off and replace it at a time. Don't pull the top and bottom at the same time. It still wandered a bit, but that was because the previous owner had changed out the rear nivomat shocks with standard shocks and did not put the correct coil spring on it.
    Last edited by Pikey; 01-07-2013 at 07:43 AM.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  10. #10
    Sr. Engineer Dana W's Avatar
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    Dec 2011
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    Chuluota, Florida
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    Default

    I also have a wandering 'Burb. My '99 has a fully refurbished stock suspension, TBIF front and leaf rear, tight steering, no issues. My problem is the 12" wide 285/55/R20 wheel & tire package on it, combined with the gentlemanly nature of the soft factory suspension. These big meats (sorta) tend to climb to the uphill side of pavement changes, truck depressions in asphalt, drainage grading, potholes, bumpsteer. My 'Burb will run straight and true on concrete pavement hands free all day. The only way to make it behave on undulating asphalt is to keep the tires at least up to 50 psi cold. Large diameter/low aspect ratio tires need high pressure. Soft sidewalls, soft suspension, tall truck = wandering soul.

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