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Thread: 97 gmc 4.3 electical problems
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01-05-2013, 06:53 PM #1
97 gmc 4.3 electical problems
i have a 97 gmc 4x4.have replace motor and bout all the sensors.now having an electrical problem.some sensors test good with test light and some dont....really need some help please
01-05-2013, 10:13 PM #2
I think that we may need some more information! What sensors are testing bad? How are you testing them with a light? Not all sensors will test "ok" with a test light. What codes are you getting? The codes could help track down the issue.

1995 Silverado 4x4 (Sold)
6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge
2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, HIR1 9011 Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)
01-06-2013, 06:12 AM #3
"i dont think you got the picture. i got a beautiful picture. this baby happens to have an extra turn of speed, which is the only thing i care about. you dont understnad what happens do you? they make cars. they make 'em exactly the same way. one or two of 'em turn out to be something special. nobody knows why. i know why. i may be kiddin' myself, but i think i can make somethin' out of that sad little bucket of bolts." ~ Tennessee Steinmetz

01-06-2013, 08:35 AM #4
Welcome to the club, it's good to have you here.

2002 Chevrolet Silverado Ext Cab 5.3 Liter / Automatic:
Current Modifications:
- Edge CS programmer w/Pod
- K&N intake
- Magnaflow exhaust
- 2005 Tahoe grill with Grillcraft Stainless Steel SW series wire mesh insert
- 2005 Tahoe Z71 valance under bumper with round fog lights
- Recon LED Daytime Running Lights
- Third Brake light is LED by IPCW
- Tail lights are Spyder
- Headlights are TYC
- Front blinkers are Anzo LED
- 6000K HIDs in headlights high beam, low beam and fog lights
- LEDs everywhere else inside and out
- Rear lights wired to work like the new Silverado with 4 tail lights, blinkers and brakes
- Lowered 2" in the rear
- Genuine GM 20" chrome wheels with 285-50-20 tires
- Drilled and slotted rotors
- Calipers painted to match
- Kenwood DNX 6160 radio with Bluetooth, GPS, DVD, iPod, Back up Camera and satellite radio
- 2 Cerwin vega amps "1400 watts total"
- 2 - 10" Kicker subs in custom box under back seat.
- 4 Infinity main speakers and 2 PB tweeters on front post
- New custom paint job, Red Fire on Charcoal Gray
"There's no fun in playing safe or by the rules, but it's not fun being hit by a semi-truck either."
01-06-2013, 12:59 PM #5
I moved your thread to the correct forum section and enhanced your thread title so that it more describes the category of problem you are having.
Welcome to the Club and good luck in getting your issues solved.
Mike (Denver, CO) - 2008 Sierra 1500 Z71 SLE 5.3L 4WD
SUSPENSION: Rancho 4" Suspension Lift; Rancho RS9000XL Shocks; Rancho Skid Plates; Rancho MyRide Wireless Shock Controller;
TIRES: BFG All Terrain 315/70/17
DRIVE TRAIN: 4.56 Gears; Detroit TrueTrac Differential; True Cool 40k Transmission Cooler
PERFORMANCE: DiableSport Predator Tuner; Custom Tuned by Diablew; Magnaflow Exhaust; AFE Cold Air Intake
ELECTRONICS: Kenwood DNX6180 Touchscreen; Subthump box w/10" Kicker; Driver Information Center (DIC); Rear View Camera
ACCESSORIES: Westin Brush/Grill Gaurd; Westin Nerf Bars; Truxedo Tonneau; 20% Tint; Tow Mirrors w/Heat & Signals
01-09-2013, 05:48 PM #6
getting codes for oxygen sensor and catalyst not ready,truck runs great untill its warmed up.cruising around 60 mph then it jerks
01-09-2013, 06:51 PM #7
You replaced the o2 sensors?

If at first you don't succeed, chances are, you are using too small of a cheater bar
Current:
1999 GMC Sierra SLT Z71 | 5.3 Vortec | Spectre Cold Air Intake | TransDapt TBS | Hypertech 30005 Tune | 2005 Chevy Tails | Clear No Name Headlights | AWS Bug Shield | 265/75/16 Mastercraft Courser A/T | "Ghetto" painted tailgate | Boss HD Speakers | 2005 Overhead Console | Dual Thrush Turbo Mufflers | Ye Olde Toolbox "borrowed" from ex-brother in law
Future:
3 inch lift kit | 33 inch A/Ts | 4.10 gears | Bigger Alternator | Electric Fans | Oil/Trans Fluid cooler with fan | Custom Tune | Headers | Re-done exhaust | Paint | Interior Restoration/upgrade with newer model stuff | Newer GMC front cap | Window Visors (In channel) | Tint | Low-Profile Tool Box | LEDs throughout stock cab locations | And whatever is spurr of the moment
US Navy Sailor :sign0011:
01-09-2013, 07:02 PM #8
When cold, the PCM uses a programmed set of fuel/air mix instruction tables (open loop). When the engine gets warm, the PCM switches to the O2 sensors to tell the PCM the ratio that is needed (closed loop).
If it runs "bad" when warm, you probably need new O2 sensors (just the front ones, the rears are to test the cat).Ray
'09 Avalanche LTZ - Black
'05 Envoy XL (sold)
01-29-2013, 03:37 AM #9
The heater circuit may be bad or crossed signal wires, scan it when running bad and go to data and tell us the voltage of the upstream (1/1,1/2) sensors. They should bounce up and down consistantly. You can use a light to test the heater circuit but DO NOT , repeat DO NOT SHORT THE HEATING AND SENSOR CIRCUITS, WILL FRY THE COMPUTER! What i use is a low beam headlight with socket to test both power and load test the wires, if it starts bright then dims there is a bad connection somewhere, no light no power.
01' 1500 LT Z71 ECSB 5.3L
line-x'd front brush guard with KC Daylighters, 6000k HID lows and highs, rewired highbeams, Trans-go mild shift kit, custom stainless duals, 3500 dually OEM taillights, K&N CAI. Still have OEM fender flairs and leveling kit in boxes waiting for time.

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