ok i just bought a 90 suburban 2500 4x4 from my unlce and it has a few issues my biggest concern is that when you start the car on a regular day(i live in san diego so no major weather problems) i have to revv the motor to keep it running once it gets warm(about 7-10mins of revving) it will stay running after that when i try to put it in any gear other than neutral it will shut off and i have to put it back into park and restart the only way i can get it to move is to put in gear and at the same time stay on the gas while putting in gear.Also when the car is really warm (after i drive for about 30min) i can put into park and shift to any other gear and it will not die. I have heard alot of different things to do 1 being to replace the idle control valve and also the computer any suggestions would be great,thanks for the help



getting your idle checked out is a good start.... your air/fuel mixture is prob not right either so get that checked out as well
PETE
95 GMC Sierra 2500
3" Body Lift, 33" Goodyear MTR's
5.7L 350 TBI Edelbrock SDT Exhaust, Flowtech Headers, K&N Intake
Sold :(
1999 Jeep Cherokee, 3" Rustys lift, 33" BFG MT's, locked, armored: Rolled :(
2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited. K&N Intake, Custom Kolak Exhaust
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will try that,any other suggestions?




Could your catalytic converter be plugged? I once had a car that had a plugged cat and I even had to resort to pull-starting it to get it running and then after it was warmed up, it would run like normal but seeing that thing glowing red when it was dark outside was what lead me to realize what the problem was. It's worth checking into.
Darcy
Washington State
2006 Silverado 2500HD LT3 4X4 CC SB Duramax LBZ
Tuff Country 6" lift, 35" Toyo M/T's on 20" Ultra Peacemaker wheels, Quadzilla Stealth2 programmer, Diamond Eye 5" cat-back exhaust, factory Special order color Yellow.


This really sounds like the Idle Control Valve.
At cold start the Idle Control Valve acts like a choke to make the engine run richer, on some engines the Idle Control Valve even shoots extra fuel into the manifold during start up.
Even in warm areas engines need to be choked a little at start up. This isnt as obvious now a days with all the electronic controls running things for us.
Whens the last time you saw a manual choke knob on a car?
Tim
2011 Silverado 1500 LT
2008 HHR LT
1999 Tacoma SR5 TRD 4X4
1993 Jeep Wrangler
1991 Toyota Rock Crawler
2009 Harley Davidson Nightrain
2004 Harley Davidson FLHT "Bagger"
2003 Glastron GXL Bowrider
haha havent seena manulka choke for a while i think my 81 toyota starlet had 1 it was pretty funny to see it haha, i guess i will try the icv, i dont think the cat converter is bad though but will takea look at night to see if it glows red,thanks for the advice guys
You may also want to check all of your vacuum connections, check the hose to brake booster etc. An open vacuum line would mess things up. Otherwise I agree withe the IAC, idle control valve. This little valve is responsible for maintaining your engine idle any time you aren't on the gas (stoplights, parked, starting etc). Not sure where it is on the burb, probably near or attached to the throttle body.
choke and fuel mixture is all controlled by the ECU...so there isn't anything to "adjust" in that area. However if you had an open vacuum line it would in essense lean out your fuel mixture.
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