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01-09-2013, 05:12 PM #1
Help diagnosing trani/electrical issue
I need help diagnosing my problem before I go by parts.
Story: I was trying to get my gauges working properly, removed the gauge pod, took a wire brush to gauge terminal, didnt realize key was on, *arch* *sparks* "ahh". Check all fuses, all okay. Reinstall gauges, some are working now (progress), but no tach or speedo, and no shift indicator. booo, feel like a dumbass.
Symptoms: No tach, no Speedo, no shift indicator light, autotrans is stuck in 3rd gear, check engine light. Codes came up as follows: P0740, TCC enable solenoid circuit electrical. P0753, 1-2 shift solenoid. P0758, 2-3 shift solenoid, P0785 3-2 shift solenoid. P1860, TCC PWM Solenoid Circuit.
I had VERY similar symptoms before when my ignition switch went, the tach and speedo still worked last time though. Any ideas of what it might be?
14 bolt posi rear, with 373s
33" wild countrys
tube steps, chrome kit, fenderflares,
chrome diff plate, window flares,
2-10"Alpine TypeE, Alpine 450watt V-Power.
01-09-2013, 07:41 PM #2
Hey KK: Very interesting that you should post this problem because a couple weeks ago my factory temp gauge went out at the same time as my ignition cylinder locked up -- with the key in the ignition and the engine running. At first I could not get it out of PARK to drive it, but after giving the gear selector a good yank I got it into gear and took it to a local shop where they replaced the ignition cylinder. Then, after picking it up and driving it home I noticed that the temp gauge and radio were not working. I took it back to the shop for diagnosis. I suspected that there was a connection between the ignition cylinder going out and the temp gauge going out because they both happened at exactly the same time. But, the shop said that they were unrelated because there is nothing electrical connected with the ignition cylinder. They diagnosed my temp gauge problem as being in the gauge itself and not the sending unit. But, I am wanting to do a confirmation diagnosis of my own now just to be sure that I am replacing the part that needs replaced. I am on a tight financial budget and cannot afford to waste money on un-necessary parts or anything. If the problem is in the factory gauge then I am thinking I will just install an aftermarket mechanical water temp gauge and not worry about repairing the gauge in the cluster. It's lots cheaper to do it that way. Anyway, I posted a thread here yesterday about my problem titled:1993 GMC Pickup - Factory Water Temp Gauge Died - Need Diagnostic Instructions
I have received lots of views but not one single response with any help. I hope you have better luck getting a response with help than I am having. I wish I could help you too, but I am struggling with my own problem -- not overly mechanically-inclined here, but have to do what mechanical work I am able to do because of financial condition. Good luck, KK!
P.S. - The shop got the radio working while they were diagnosing the temp gauge. But I told them I wanted to investigate my options before I decided on what to do about the temp gauge. The good news is that they did not charge me for the 2 hours the truck was in their service bay! Isn't that amazing? It's a small, independent, shop and the owner and his family are Christians -- as I am -- and they are really good people. He used to be a mechanic at a GM dealership, and is highly regarded as a mechanic. His price on the ignition cylinder replacement was reasonable too -- $135 parts and labor. Afterwards, I called the local GM dealer to see what their charge would have been and it would've been $171. So, I saved $36 there! Every penny counts on my budget! L8R!-- My other truck was a Freightliner --
01-10-2013, 02:24 PM #3
All things related to the vehicle moving and the tranny not shifting.
Most times, when there is arching, there is usually a current overload and a blown fuse.
Because of the list of things not working, I would suspect a blown PCM fuse.Ray
'09 Avalanche LTZ - Black
'05 Envoy XL (sold)
01-10-2013, 03:50 PM #4
@mark3069 if the truck you are talking about the issue with is the one pictured (mid 90's?) then the gauge is an easy fix. Those trucks require no soldering to replace the stepper motor. They pop right out. They are around $12 each.
Back to the original posters question, I agree with RayVoy, has to be a fuse somewhere or a completely melted wire.
Last edited by Pikey; 01-10-2013 at 04:08 PM.
1995 Silverado 4x4
6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge
2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)
01-11-2013, 05:16 PM #5
I went and double checked the fuses, turns out there was one blown that I had missed. "PRNDL", whatever that means, maybe some one can help me out? I do believe it is all fixed. Thank you for reminding me to double check RayVoy, saved me $240 plus dollars.
On a side note, I cant believe I drove for over 2 years without any gauges when all I had to do was clean the contacts.
01-11-2013, 06:17 PM #6
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