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  1. #1
    Sr. Apprentice msvx95's Avatar
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    Default Wining noise a few minutes after startup

    Recently my truck has started to make a whining noise after startup...engine running at idle and what sounds to be a bearing going bad. After I apply the accelerator the whining increases (similar to the sound of a blower on a custom car)....the noise sometimes lasts a few seconds or minutes after I press the accelerator at different pressures and it will be fine and noise goes away for the rest of the day.

    Has anyone experienced this problem?

    My thoughts are the alternator is starting to go bad (no dash lights yet) or an idler pully is due to be replaced..

    Anyone with good solutions?
    Matt


  2. #2
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    stephan's Avatar
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    I have a serpentine belt that makes this noise when the engine is cold. It usually goes away after 5 minutes or so. My idler pully also used to squeek, but I took it off & forced some grease into the bearings & it hasn't resurfaced in 2 years.
    I don't think yours is an alternator bearing, or any kind of bearing, as the noise would not go away. Once a bearing is dry & starts making noise it very seldom ever stops untill you grease it, or replace it.
    You might try popping the hood & attempt to locate the noise next time it's cold. If it's the belt, try putting a little bar soap on the belt. If it's the belt making the noise, the soap will temporairly quiet it down. Be very carefull when it's running where you put your hands & fingers ESPECIALLY in the area of the fan(s) belt, pulleys. I would soap the belt with the engine OFF.
    1988 Chevy C-3500 2wd (no pic)
    350 c.i. 5.7 L Stock Block, 4 Bolt Mains
    L-31 Vortec Heads, Edelbrock Cam & Intake,
    Holley 650, Flowtech Headers, Magnaflow exh.
    Jet Trans 700R4, B&M Ratchet, 4:10 gears,
    3" susp. lift kit "shadetree"
    No rev limiter, No speed limiter lol


  3. #3
    Sr. Apprentice msvx95's Avatar
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    Default

    how can you really diagnose a noisy belt? I'm hesitant to put the bar soap on there...not sure how to really do that yet. I'd rather not do that while the engine is running.
    Matt


  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by msvx95 View Post
    After I apply the accelerator the whining increases (similar to the sound of a blower on a custom car)....the noise sometimes lasts a few seconds or minutes after I press the accelerator at different pressures and it will be fine and noise goes away for the rest of the day. Anyone with good solutions?
    The Clutch Fan in my S-10 did this...When I inherited dad's Jimmy it was quiet then that summer it would get hotter & hotter on the way home in the hot afternoon but never overheated and was fine in the cooler morning and at night.

    After replacing the fan clutch it roared every morning for a few min just like the pickup did...When you first start up the fan is locked up solid until the silicone warms up to slip some...

    It really does sound like a blower for a few min.

    I like my '05's electric fans...
    Still Loyal to GM after all these years...:shocked:
    2006 Impala LT 3.5L
    2005 Silverado WT small cab/longbed 4x4 4.3L V6
    1999 Grand Am 3.4L in TX w/ our youngest
    1993 GMC Jimmy 4.3L 4 door 4x4 'Ole Rusty' - 'SOLD'
    1988 S-10 small cab/longbed HT3.4L Crate Engine
    1970 Nova 250 I-6, factory 3 sp floor shifter.
    1968 Chevelle 'Nomad' Wagon 250 I-6 w/ 3 on da' tree.

  5. #5
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    stephan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by msvx95 View Post
    how can you really diagnose a noisy belt? I'm hesitant to put the bar soap on there...not sure how to really do that yet. I'd rather not do that while the engine is running.
    Well you can either use soap on the belt, or just buy a new belt & hope you're not wasting your money. You can't diagnose a noisy belt by taking it off because you have eliminated everything else that could possibly be making the noise: alt, w.p., p.s., a.c., idler pulley, if you take the belt off, nothing is going to be turning..so......

    I don't blame you for not wanting to do it with the engine running. That's why I said: "I would soap the belt with the engine OFF".
    1988 Chevy C-3500 2wd (no pic)
    350 c.i. 5.7 L Stock Block, 4 Bolt Mains
    L-31 Vortec Heads, Edelbrock Cam & Intake,
    Holley 650, Flowtech Headers, Magnaflow exh.
    Jet Trans 700R4, B&M Ratchet, 4:10 gears,
    3" susp. lift kit "shadetree"
    No rev limiter, No speed limiter lol


  6. #6
    Sr. Apprentice msvx95's Avatar
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    Default

    Well it sounds as if the fan clutch could be the culprit. I've read a few threads about it. I will have to really diagnose it when I have some free time.
    Matt


  7. #7

    Default

    This noise issue sounds exactly like the issue my truck is having. Has anyone else had this problem noise and what was your fix if you did ??????
    [SIGPIC]

  8. #8

    Default

    money on a/c belt tensioner. When I was in the shop that tensioner pulley is usually the first to go, then the other tensioner, water pump then alt. Take the both belts off and spin the pulleys and find which one is not spinning smooth, !0 min tops depending on is you have a serp tool or not. The a/c tensioner is down on the bottom of the engine and catches alot of crap
    01' 1500 LT Z71 ECSB 5.3L
    line-x'd front brush guard with KC Daylighters, 6000k HID lows and highs, rewired highbeams, Trans-go mild shift kit, custom stainless duals, 3500 dually OEM taillights, K&N CAI. Still have OEM fender flairs and leveling kit in boxes waiting for time.


  9. #9
    Sr. Apprentice msvx95's Avatar
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    Default

    it was in fact the a/c belt pulley on mine and no it wasn't 10 min to replace because without the correct set of tools I struggled trying to get my standard tools and my arms to get in there. I haven't heard any squealing in over 1 year so I'm happy about that.
    Matt


  10. #10

    Default

    I replaced my AC tensioner with standard tools about three months ago. It took about 10 minutes. Luckily, I bought the gates brand with the one year warranty. It is making noise again. Guess that I will be pulling it off and replacing it soon.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

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