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  1. #11

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    I think J cat might be on to something here, a mechanic at the local Chevy dealer told me their having a lot of issues like this.
    They werent having any luck getting air pockets out by putting the truck nose up though, they said you need to bleed the system with a Radiator Pressure Tester/Bleeder to get air pockets out.

  2. #12

    Default

    hmm ok time for a coolant flush I guess

    - - - Updated - - -

    Well I tried the parked on a hill trick again and this time a little steeper and longer and sure enough that seams to have fixed it. Curious now though, my dealership said my coolant lasts 100k miles and I have 80k on it, does anyone change sooner than 100k miles?

  3. #13

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    It cant hurt and is fairly easy to do, just a little messy.

    1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
    Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.

    Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door

  4. #14
    Legend

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    everett, massachusetts
    Posts
    1,489

    Default

    so you did the coolant purge proceedure ? did the level drop ?

    this is removal of the pressure cap when cold. run engine until hot , then rev engine to 2,ooorpm. fill to the hot mark.



    using a vacuum gage and a propane torch to direct propane gas to the area of your suspected leak area will show as a surge in rpm and vacuum gage readings.

    you place a hose over the torch end and open the valve slightly so gas comes out alittle..

  5. #15

    Default

    Electric blend doors since at least 99 so no vacuum issues to worry about. Dexcool does have problems building up crap in systems, even the new stuff. I would change it around 100k and take the heater hoses off and run a hose though both hoses to force the crap out of the heater core. Also water pump impellers that rot off cause the same prob but since your truck is newer that wouldnt be it.
    01' 1500 LT Z71 ECSB 5.3L
    line-x'd front brush guard with KC Daylighters, 6000k HID lows and highs, rewired highbeams, Trans-go mild shift kit, custom stainless duals, 3500 dually OEM taillights, K&N CAI. Still have OEM fender flairs and leveling kit in boxes waiting for time.


  6. #16

    Default

    I had a similar problem a few years ago. It turned out one hinge on the air diverter door (may not be the correct name) broke off and it was rotating around in an uncontrolled manner. I could not control the temperature, regardless of the position of the temperature control. It was most noticeable during the winter, when the heater would be blowing hot, then suddenly blow cold air for a few minutes.

    Just my two cents worth,
    Steve

  7. #17
    Legend

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    everett, massachusetts
    Posts
    1,489

    Default

    the water pump impeller corroded to stubs does occur with using non distilled water and or not enough dexcool ..some have had this TYPE water pump failure for sure !

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