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Thread: Truck Dead HELP!!!!
01-12-2013, 04:19 PM #1
- Join Date
- Oct 2012
- South Florida
Truck Dead HELP!!!!
This started a little while ago. The issue starts when I'm going down the hwy at about 65-70 and about 2000 rpm. When I punch it the truck starts to bog down, like it's not getting enough fuel. Eventually it gets worse to the point the truck dies. Sometimes the truck will start but when I press on the gas it bogs down again and I cant even get to 3000 rpm, then it dies again. After it dies I've always been able to get it started again after 10 min or so of trying. Then the truck runs fine for a while. Today it did it 4 times and I barely got home. Could this be the fuel pump failing?
I have a custom tune from Black Bear Perf. and after loading their tune the truck ran great. I sent them a data file after loading their tune and Justin told me the truck was running lean at high RMP, so on his suggestion I replaced the fuel filter. If that didn't fix the issue, he believes the fuel pump isn;t putting out enough pressure at the higher rmps and that it might need to be replaced. Based on that information, I'm thinking the fuel pump is crapping out on me. When BBP told me the truck was running lean at high rmp, I could not tell there was anything wrong with the truck, meaning it drove great. There were no symptoms whatsoever, at any speed.
Here's my other question to you guys. A couple of months back my AutoCal was popping O2 sensor errors, so I replaced all 4 of them. Shortly after doing that the AutoCal was giving me a Catalytic Converted code, which I just cleared. I came across a couple of posts stating that a Catalytic Converter can be clogged and cause these bog down issues, is that correct? Can a Cat. Converter do that??
As I barely made it home today, the truck was dying in my driveway. It would barely rev up over 3500 to 4000 rpm. Two hours later the truck started up just fine with no issues at all. I even reved up the engine with no issues at all. COuld the issue be temperature related. Maybe this is the reason the truck starts up again after 10 minutes of trying to start the truck on the side of the road.
Last edited by rickp; 01-12-2013 at 05:29 PM.
01-12-2013, 09:06 PM #2
Before I got to the end of the post, I was thinking clogged cat's.
Do you have a sulfur smell? Does it sound clogged? Next time it acts up, check the pressure at the tailpipe/s. Check temps in front and rear of the cat's.
Add your truck info and see who else chimes in.
1999 Chevy K2500 Suburban 350
K&N, reworked cai, Thrush cat-backs
Vinyl, cranks, floor shift, and rear air!
01-12-2013, 10:49 PM #3
1) Check fuel pressure at the rail with a gauge, ideally tape the gauge where you can see it on the road and go for a drive.
2) Check fuel trims with a good scan tool like Torque (for android phones).
Any fuel pump, line, filter problems will show up with a pressure problem.
If your fuel trims are running way rich chances are you have an ignition system problem that is burning up your cat(s), solve that before you fix your cats. It is unclear to me which engine you have but you'll want to check plugs -- wires -- coil(s) -- and distributor cap & rotor if equipped.
Fuel pump problem = cats probably ok
Ignition problem = cats probably toast, I hate exhaust work with an ever-burning passion and would take the truck to someone who doesn't, you decide.Minneapolis area - 1997 K2500 regular cab long bed + 8.5' Western Unimount plow + modified transmission + 2nd battery + modified camper charge circuit + 1971 Cayo camper -and- 2004 4x4 Suburban 2500 8.1 + Maxbrake controller + 2nd battery + modified trailer charge circuit + Reese receiver, pulls 30' Airstream trailer
01-13-2013, 12:15 AM #4
I have seen similar problems before. Luckily the truck was under warranty. I took it in and the tech at the dealership said that the fuel pump was "tired" it would head up and then not push enough fuel. Then it would cool down and the truck would run good again. They replaced the pump and everything was fine. I agree with @Jamm3r, go rent a fuel pressure gauge or buy one. Hook it up to the fuel rail, run it under your hood near the cowl, tape it there so you can see it and go for a ride. If it stays at a normal pressure while the truck is running like crap then I would also check the wires and plugs. Then move onto the cats, I also despise exhaust work so I would find a good shop.
1995 Silverado 4x4
6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge
2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)
01-13-2013, 10:27 AM #5
01-13-2013, 01:52 PM #6
- Join Date
- Oct 2012
- South Florida
After they truck dying in my driveway last night and not moving it, I just got in it and it drove great. I punched from a dead stop and rpms went up to almost 5500 before changing to 2nd gear and then to almost 4500 before changing to 3rd gear. So whatever the issue i think temperature is involved.
Someone is telling me that its almost for sure the Fuel Pump. I'm taking it to the dealer tomorrow regardless.
01-13-2013, 04:41 PM #7
The cats fall under an emissions warranty, 8 years; however, there is a mileage limit.
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