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  1. #11
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    Enkeiavalanche's Avatar
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    Gotta say those are some Nice looking Switches.....
    08 Z71 Avalanche Mods to date: K&N CAI,Hellwig Swaybars and End Links, Corsa Sport Exhaust, Superchips Programer,IPCW LOF & 3rd brake light and tails, AMI Gas door,Show Hooks and Door locks, Enkei Wheels, with Pirelli tires, StreetScene Bowties, Grant Steering wheel,Muth signal mirrors,SSBC Big Brake kit,Huskyliner Mug gards,Floor mats and Hood shield, McGard Lug nuts and locks, Bedrug, Cervini's Ram Air hood,35watt HID Fog lights, Sylvania bulbs all around ZXE's Highs and Lows, WhiteNight Back up lights,Sirius and HD Radio, SnugTop sitting on deck now Got a Softopper on now,Tempress Boat Hatches.... New Bilstein shocks are on... New Mods coming soon..... X

  2. #12
    Master Mechanic zigger215's Avatar
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    It's not a "reverse ground". That doesn't even exist. It's a negative trigger meaning the power is constant but the impedance to ground fluctuates which causing the dimming in the lights. The symbol you're lookin for is "-". Just like our parking lights.

    Having worked professionally in the mobile installation industry and now as an IBEW wireman who has done tons of PLC installations, I can say they are nothing like cars....

  3. #13

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    Pardon my fumbled terminology.

    Pikey, I'll let you know when I test -- should be this weekend, weather permitting.

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by zigger215 View Post
    It's not a "reverse ground". That doesn't even exist. It's a negative trigger meaning the power is constant but the impedance to ground fluctuates which causing the dimming in the lights. The symbol you're lookin for is "-". Just like our parking lights.

    Having worked professionally in the mobile installation industry and now as an IBEW wireman who has done tons of PLC installations, I can say they are nothing like cars....

    I looked at the diagram again and it does not have any indication. I also looked at the parking light circuit diagram. It did not indicate a negative trigger either. Maybe the publisher "forgot" that part.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  5. #15
    Master Mechanic zigger215's Avatar
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    Pikey I can tell you from years and years of experience that these trucks have many "negative trigger" circuits, park lights being one of them. Apply 12v to the grey/black wire on the switch and watch the free fireworks show...

  6. #16
    Master Mechanic zigger215's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    There you go, that's what a negative trigger looks like on direct wire. This is a complete schematic (way more in depth than a Haynes book) for a 2004 silverado.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by zigger215 View Post
    Pikey I can tell you from years and years of experience that these trucks have many "negative trigger" circuits, park lights being one of them. Apply 12v to the grey/black wire on the switch and watch the free fireworks show...
    Oh, I am not doubting you in any way. I am just stating that my manual does not indicate the (-). I would always use a multimeter to figure out what was going on before i attempted any mods/repairs on an electrical system. I have seen way too many inconsistencies in wiring diagrams to trust anything 100%

  8. #18
    Master Mechanic zigger215's Avatar
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    That's also pretty dang true. Always double check with a meter, I second that. I will say, GM has been awesome with their consistency on our trucks, I always loved working on our trucks when they came in the shop. I always knew what I was getting good or bad

  9. #19

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    I decided to go for a connection at the dimmer switch in the cab just because it's a place I knew I could easily probe. After removing my sound deadening material, cutting new material to fit (for when I finish), and probing/testing with a multi-meter, here's the verdict:

    The wire (at the dimer switch) is brown with a white stripe and is NOT a negative trigger.
    Last edited by SurrealOne; 01-27-2013 at 06:45 PM.

  10. #20

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    Hey Zigger what app is that on your phone?

    Hey surreal I always love your work, I know you said 85 bucks for just the four switches but what did the whole setup run you. And would you be willing to do another similiar?
    4.8L Vortec | 6inch Lift | 35'' BFG ALL TERRAINS | K&N Intake | AirRaid Throttle Body Space | 3inch straight pipe dumped at rear axle | BlackBear Tuned | 2 13in JL Audio Subs | 1000watt HD amp, 2.9 cap | Kenwood Dble Din | Gibson Hi Flo Cats | HIDs Hi/Los 55watt 8000k |4.56 gears |

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