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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by TRPLXL2 View Post
    I know a lot of people hate FRAM filters, but all I can say is I have seen 3 engines torn down that ran FRAM filters and they were super clean. I now run WIX or BOSCH just to try something different, but basically they all looked the same.
    Fram also makes different filters with varying levels of filtration, drain back etc. I don't get the low end fram but I do buy the tough guard from fram.
    David
    2004 Silverado 2500 Crew Cab 4x4, AMSOIL EA air filter, Granatelli MAF sensor, Throttle body spacer, Magnaflow exhaust (true dual to 2 in 1 out muffler), 6" ProComp lift (add a leaf and 5" superlift rear block), Bilstein shocks, 35's (Cooper Disoverer ST) and 4.10 gears, Rhino Liner, EGRUSA fender Flares and widow visors, extended stainless steel brake lines, firestone airbags w/onboard air compressor, Pioneer Avic X940BT navigation, Accel backup camera.
    http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...Silverado-2500
    1960 Land Rover Series II 88
    2001 Pontiac Sunfire
    2013 Toyota Avalon Limited (Wife's Car)
    NRA Life Member

  2. #12

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    I have used the Bosch, mobile 1, fram and K&N. The main thing I look at is the anti drain back feature... helps to minimize dry starts. What I have settled on it the K&N... as I like the nut welded on it to help with removal.
    2009 Chevy Silverado 2500HDLT 6.0L w/ Towing Package, Dick Cepek GM8 Rims, Dick Cepek FC II 33X11.50R17,RKSport Ram-Air Hood(Functional), Lazer Lite Aluminum Tonneau Cover, Road Armor Stealth Bumper, PIAA Lighting, Diablo Trinity Tuner, Diablew Custom Tune, BullyDog Cold Air Intake, American Racing Headers w/highflow cats, Corsa Performance Sport Exhaust, Custom Striping, Black Bowties front and rear, Fuel Grille Inserts, Recon Headlights, Readylift Shocks, Readylift Upper Contol Arms, 2" Blocks in the Rear..

    Future Plans: HD Tie Rods, Under hood upgrades, Crower Camshaft and possibly electric fans.

  3. #13
    Jr. Engineer Cowpie's Avatar
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    Anti drain back is something to consider if the filter is mounted other than vertical. If the filter is in an upright or vertical position, then the oil is not going to drain out of it anyway.
    Hey there, VA, what do ya' say? How many vets did you kill today?

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cowpie View Post
    Anti drain back is something to consider if the filter is mounted other than vertical. If the filter is in an upright or vertical position, then the oil is not going to drain out of it anyway.

    Anti-drain back has more to do with keeping the engine galleys/passages from draining out, than keeping the filter full of oil...

  5. #15
    Jr. Engineer Cowpie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steved View Post
    Anti-drain back has more to do with keeping the engine galleys/passages from draining out, than keeping the filter full of oil...
    Now I am confused. The oil goes from the sump to the filter then to the engine then back to the sump. How is the filter able to keep oil in the galleries and up in the head? The oil is only going to be up to the lowest gallery in the engine, which is not much higher than the filter itself. That being said, the idea of "dry starts" is not really that big of an issue with modern engines. Truth be told, many just install a new oil filter on their ride without even pre-filling with oil when they do an oil change, and their engines last well over 200,000 miles. Unless an engine sits for an extremely extended period of time, the risk of damage from a "dry start" is remote. I understand your concern, but think it is nothing to worry about. I have taken several diesel engines well past 1 million miles without opening up the engine for more than valve adjustments and an occasional injector, without worrying about anti-drain back valves in filters. Same for my gas engines, of which none had the engine died off before the vehicle itself.

  6. #16

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    All I have ever used is Fram. I do use the Tough Guard on my truck but I have been using Fram on my truck for almost 13 years now and no issues. All my dad ever used was Fram and he has never had a car withy any engine issues. I stick with what works and Fram seems to work just fine.

    But, keep in mind, there are a LOT of other factors in how long an engine lasts and how well it performs; not just what oil filter you use.
    Clint (TX) 2001 Silverado LS 4.8L auto 2wd ECSB [GARAGE]
    Gasoline or gunpowder: If you ain't burning one, you ain't having fun!
    NRA Endowment Member 5 24 48 88 - Hendrick Motorsports FTW!

  7. #17
    Former Member
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    The oil filter places a restriction into the main oil passage, preventing the lines/passages from draining back into the sump due to siphoning. Without it, the oil ump would need to reprime every time...oil pumps are not a high volume pump, and that process takes a while; not to mention filling all the passages.

    Have you ever started an engine where the ADB valve has malfunctioned? It can take more than a minute for the oil pump to reprime and push oil through the system until you see oil pressure...

    I'm done with this conversation.

    - - - Updated - - -

    At one point there was a quality control issue at Fram, and their filter caused a lot of failed Cummins engines...they were not designed for the added heat and pressure of the redesigned 1998.5 engine. Dodge even had a TSB that was a list of "approved" filters for use on the Cummins' used in Dodge.

    And that sort of caused the whole "Fram is garbage" debate...prior to that, I used Fram and never had an issue either.

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pikey View Post
    I was doing some research on oil filters a few months back. I found a site that some may find helpful. It tells the square inches of filter material, manufacturer, bypass valve material , and anti drain back valve material of each filter. It is comparing the AC PF2 to other filters.

    http://www.minimopar.net/oilfilters/...nce.html#delco
    You do realize that not only is this 19 yr old misinformation, most if not all of those filters have changed construction and manufacturers several times since this "study" was published. This study proves absolutely nothing about actual oil filtration as there is no part of it where oil filter tests are actually run.

  9. #19

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    How do you see it as 19 year old info when they study was published in 2008? It was originally posted in 1999 and has been updated frequently since then. Nope, it does not say where the test was done at. If you read the FAQ the guy says that he is an Electrical Engineer with no filter experience, just a common sense approach. He never says how well it filters, just the number of pleats and length of the filter media. It is on the internet, so who knows how true it is. Just like anything on the internet. Anyone can post anything. If you have "more reliable" info then please, by all means, share it with us.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pikey View Post
    How do you see it as 19 year old info when they study was published in 2008? It was originally posted in 1999 and has been updated frequently since then. Nope, it does not say where the test was done at. If you read the FAQ the guy says that he is an Electrical Engineer with no filter experience, just a common sense approach. He never says how well it filters, just the number of pleats and length of the filter media. It is on the internet, so who knows how true it is. Just like anything on the internet. Anyone can post anything. If you have "more reliable" info then please, by all means, share it with us.
    Pikey,
    I work for FRAM Filtration. We publish (right on the box and on our website) both the efficiency (@ 20 microns) and capacity (in mileage) of our filters using the ISO 4548-12 tests with the correct particle size dirt. This is the only OE automaker accepted test for oil filter validation. We test with dirt in the 10-20 micron particle size as that is what the test calls for. We publish our efficiency at 20 microns. Many oil filter companies will use the ISO test and skew the results by using larger (25-30 micron) particle size so they can claim a high efficiency rating. This is on our box and I can tell you the FTC and our competitors would be all over us if we published claims we couldn't back up. The real proof of filter quality is having oil analysis performed to actually see how well your filter is working. FRAM filters always do well in these tests. Look up Scott Lipford on youtube, a real GM truck story that is now sporting 550k miles and still going strong.

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