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  1. #11

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    Also, I did spill coolant, I removed the hose from the drivers side of the throttle body.[/QUOTE]

    You could have left it on but like i said but no matter. If you have a 3/8 or 1/4 torque wrench use it because if you dont tighten the intake right it will warp.
    01' 1500 LT Z71 ECSB 5.3L
    line-x'd front brush guard with KC Daylighters, 6000k HID lows and highs, rewired highbeams, Trans-go mild shift kit, custom stainless duals, 3500 dually OEM taillights, K&N CAI. Still have OEM fender flairs and leveling kit in boxes waiting for time.


  2. #12
    Sr. Engineer FergusonT's Avatar
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    Alright got the manifold off, peaked into the port for cylinder 8....and there sits the little rubber piece from my MAP sensor, sitting on top of the closed valve.
    1999 Chevrolet Suburban LS K1500
    1991 Chevrolet S10 4.3L 4x4
    2005 Suzuki Forenza (GM/Daewoo)

  3. #13
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    so maybe now with a good MAP the engine will run good. I suspected that your MAF was messed up.

  4. #14
    Sr. Engineer FergusonT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shibby2oo8 View Post
    - - - Updated - - -

    Also, I did spill coolant, I removed the hose from the drivers side of the throttle body.
    You could have left it on but like i said but no matter. If you have a 3/8 or 1/4 torque wrench use it because if you dont tighten the intake right it will warp.[/QUOTE]


    Yeah I saw your post after I had already done it...oh well

    - - - Updated - - -

    With the codes I was getting, I am wondering if maybe it needed new intake gaskets anyways. Maybe I should replace the MAF as well.

  5. #15
    Sr. Engineer FergusonT's Avatar
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    Well well....Last night....snapped a manifold bolt..........

  6. #16
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    removing or installign the bolt? time to invest in some broken bolt removal tools.
    "i dont think you got the picture. i got a beautiful picture. this baby happens to have an extra turn of speed, which is the only thing i care about. you dont understnad what happens do you? they make cars. they make 'em exactly the same way. one or two of 'em turn out to be something special. nobody knows why. i know why. i may be kiddin' myself, but i think i can make somethin' out of that sad little bucket of bolts." ~ Tennessee Steinmetz

  7. #17
    Sr. Engineer FergusonT's Avatar
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    re installing, I got it out though. It snapped up high thank god. Just spent all day running around and calling places, can't find anywhere. Wandered around a junk yard for about 45 minutes, no gm 5.3 motors. Guess I gotta go through the stealership on this one.

  8. #18
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    you better get a torque wrench and the torque specs. no reason to break these bolts easy on this hardware. also you must follow the proper torque proceedure . this is why bolts break and components get distorted. all these parts are soft ALUM>>>>.

  9. #19
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    The dealership charges $1.35 for the bolt, and have them print off your torque specs. Take your vin # with you, so they give you the correct one's for your vehicle. The only thing I will say about it is the torque sequence is done in 3 passes on each bolt, staggered in a pattern like a star. Make sure you read it real close, because they go from inches-lbs, to ft-lbs. and it's easy to screw up!
    2004 Chevy Colorado
    LS1 5.7 swap/TBSS rear axle swap

  10. #20
    Sr. Engineer FergusonT's Avatar
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    I've got the specs and the sequence from a haynes manual, the problem was I was using a bad torque wrench. I was using my dads old wrench, he goes "oooh yeah, I used that on my '67 Camaro back in the '70s." It had to have been off, it was saying 40lbs and it snapped a bolt.

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