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Thread: Good Looking Interior Lighting
02-08-2013, 11:22 AM #31
I don't really care if the thread gets derailed. I was just showing off a picture!! pmf, what kit do you use? We have kits at the shop that are one piece and two piece (with back pad detached). We have to use the two piece kits more often than not because of seats with hinges....we always relayed the power and put a 25amp fuse inline on pin 87 (where we tapped main power).
02-08-2013, 11:37 AM #32
- Join Date
- Feb 2013
that is insane, great job
02-08-2013, 12:21 PM #33
zigger215 I don't suppose you have any insight as far as making the displays blue instead of blue-green? I want to do white LEDs with blue as an accent color, so my overhead switch panel is blue LEDs, my radio would be set to blue button lighting, trailer brake controller set to blue screen color, etc.
I'm not using a kit for my rear heated seats, but previous research on the subject showed that you can cut a carbon fibre heating pad anywhere to fit it around things like velcro that holds the upholstery to the seat contours. Wire pads limit your trimming because you can't cut through the wire. I'm not using a kit for my rear seats though. I'm using the wire heating pads from a 2005 Ford Focus. Ford wired the seats on individual 7.5A circuits, so I'm going to run them both on a single 15A circuit from the additional fuses I'm adding under the hood. I'll be using the same switches I used for my overhead console switch panel, which will be powering a small (most likely 10A) relay for each side. That way I can tap into an ignition-switched source for the power to the switches and have an independent circuit that is fused for the actual power. The only other complication is that I will have to rig up a jumper for a couple of wires in the rear radio control harness. The control doesn't function without the factory radio anyway, but it still needs to be present for the rear speakers to work. Without it, the speaker input and output have to be jumped together for the BOSE to send sound to the back speakers.
Last edited by pmf608; 02-08-2013 at 12:36 PM.
2008 FORD F350. My new all-around truck.
2001 Silverado Reg. Cab Not-So-Base -- SOLD
2003 Avalanche Z71. No Cladding. Check out my Mod thread. - Crashed. Will be rebuilt soon.
1974 Triumph Spitfire 1500 - Work in Progress
2003 Sierra 3500 Duramax. The Newer, Better Work Truck -- FOR SALE
02-08-2013, 03:37 PM #34
Complex setup! We have to use kits from a vendor for warranty purposes.
The lighting did come out a nice blue before I removed the tint. I used a 6000k LED. The reason I went white was because I wanted a luxury look rather than a "ricey blue" look. Try 6000k LEDs and leave your factory button tint alone and see what you think. You may like it.
Vision x use has the LEDs that made it easy.
Just reread your post. I suggest you remove that film and buy 8000k LEDs. That is a really nice blue, not too deep but not to light, definitely my first choice for blue.
02-08-2013, 05:26 PM #35
02-08-2013, 09:25 PM #36
I did a LOT of drilling on all my parts so I could get the LEDs to image accurately.
02-09-2013, 12:26 AM #37
I'm pretty sure such a write-up wouldn't be terribly relevant to my full rear bench. Looks like a cheap and nice mod, but it's super low on my list, right now.
07-04-2013, 01:32 AM #38
- Join Date
- Jun 2013
- Bangor Maine
How much did the LED's Cost You? I'm Looking to get blue ones for my sonoma but not sure how many or how to do it lol99 Gmc Sonoma SL 4.3L 4x4 Reg Cab Long Bed
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