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  1. #11
    Jr. Engineer Jamm3r's Avatar
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    Dec 2012
    Location
    Minneapolis area
    Posts
    240

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    Pikey

    Thanks for the photo.

    I am unfamiliar with the details of the 2005-up voltage regulators but I know a thing or two about batteries and charging controls and can guess at most of it.

    What you call the "box on the negative battery cable" is a current sensor. Its purpose is to measure the current (amps) to and from the battery. It's one of the pieces of the puzzle that the computer has to have in order to accurately determine the ideal output voltage to set the alternator for. Battery temperature and the amount of time since the engine was started being the other important variables.


    So here's the scoop. See how you have two wires that both go from the - battery terminal and then through the ring of the current sensor? The large one goes to the engine block somewhere, and the small one goes to the sheet metal of the chassis, usually on the fender or to part of the radiator support structure. If you want to do a big 3 what you want to do is replace those with a single wire going from the battery terminal, through the ring, and to the engine block --- and then attach the existing little wire, the end of it that used to go to the - battery terminal, to the big wire by soldering a running splice, like this:

    Engine ground------------+-------O------- (-)battery
    .. . . . . . . . . . . . |
    .. . . . . . . . . . . . +---- fender/radiator support

    Where the "O" is the sensor.

    You'll find that without the little wire having to fit under there you can upsize the wire by at least a couple of sizes. Might want to take it to the parts store and test fit it since insulation thickness can vary from one wire type to the next.

    You make the running splice by stripping about 1-2" of insulation from the part of the larger cable where the splice will go, then wrapping the (stripped bare) end of the smaller wire around it 3-4 times. Then solder it with good, rosin-core, tin/lead solder, and wrap it with tape. A 300W soldering iron or gun works best but a torch will work too as long as you're careful not to overheat the joint.

    The current flow through the sensor with this setup will be the same as what you had with stock so the performance of the charging system will be exactly the same. In essence you want to run all the ground-to-battery connections through the device, but not any other grounds.

    ETA: Dots. Ignore the dots in the diagram, they're there so the forum software won't change the spacing
    Minneapolis area - 1997 K2500 regular cab long bed + 8.5' Western Unimount plow + modified transmission + 2nd battery + modified camper charge circuit + 1971 Cayo camper -and- 2004 4x4 Suburban 2500 8.1 + Maxbrake controller + 2nd battery + modified trailer charge circuit + Reese receiver, pulls 30' Airstream trailer

  2. #12
    Legend


    Enkeiavalanche's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Piermont,NY, back in Northern NJ now, But may be in IL soon....
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    5,356

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    Sounds good to me...
    08 Z71 Avalanche Mods to date: K&N CAI,Hellwig Swaybars and End Links, Corsa Sport Exhaust, Superchips Programer,IPCW LOF & 3rd brake light and tails, AMI Gas door,Show Hooks and Door locks, Enkei Wheels, with Pirelli tires, StreetScene Bowties, Grant Steering wheel,Muth signal mirrors,SSBC Big Brake kit,Huskyliner Mug gards,Floor mats and Hood shield, McGard Lug nuts and locks, Bedrug, Cervini's Ram Air hood,35watt HID Fog lights, Sylvania bulbs all around ZXE's Highs and Lows, WhiteNight Back up lights,Sirius and HD Radio, SnugTop sitting on deck now Got a Softopper on now,Tempress Boat Hatches.... New Bilstein shocks are on... New Mods coming soon..... X

  3. #13

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jamm3r View Post
    Pikey

    Thanks for the photo.

    I am unfamiliar with the details of the 2005-up voltage regulators but I know a thing or two about batteries and charging controls and can guess at most of it.

    What you call the "box on the negative battery cable" is a current sensor. Its purpose is to measure the current (amps) to and from the battery. It's one of the pieces of the puzzle that the computer has to have in order to accurately determine the ideal output voltage to set the alternator for. Battery temperature and the amount of time since the engine was started being the other important variables.


    So here's the scoop. See how you have two wires that both go from the - battery terminal and then through the ring of the current sensor? The large one goes to the engine block somewhere, and the small one goes to the sheet metal of the chassis, usually on the fender or to part of the radiator support structure. If you want to do a big 3 what you want to do is replace those with a single wire going from the battery terminal, through the ring, and to the engine block --- and then attach the existing little wire, the end of it that used to go to the - battery terminal, to the big wire by soldering a running splice, like this:

    Engine ground------------+-------O------- (-)battery
    .. . . . . . . . . . . . |
    .. . . . . . . . . . . . +---- fender/radiator support

    Where the "O" is the sensor.

    You'll find that without the little wire having to fit under there you can upsize the wire by at least a couple of sizes. Might want to take it to the parts store and test fit it since insulation thickness can vary from one wire type to the next.

    You make the running splice by stripping about 1-2" of insulation from the part of the larger cable where the splice will go, then wrapping the (stripped bare) end of the smaller wire around it 3-4 times. Then solder it with good, rosin-core, tin/lead solder, and wrap it with tape. A 300W soldering iron or gun works best but a torch will work too as long as you're careful not to overheat the joint.

    The current flow through the sensor with this setup will be the same as what you had with stock so the performance of the charging system will be exactly the same. In essence you want to run all the ground-to-battery connections through the device, but not any other grounds.

    ETA: Dots. Ignore the dots in the diagram, they're there so the forum software won't change the spacing
    Wow, I just saw this post! Thanks @jamm3r that makes complete sense.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

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