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  1. #1

    Default Newb from Ohio w/ questions

    I bought my first Silverado Saturday. Happy birthday to me!! It is a 1999 with 184k on the odometer. The truck is in really good shape with little rust around the bed and wheel wells. There are a few problems that I would like to discuss with you guys. The main issue is with the breaks. The truck stops, but I have to press the pedal to the floor to stop it. I checked the fluid and it is about half full. I will buy some more to fill it all of the way, but will this solve the issue? I'm not convinced that is will, but I figured it is the easiest and best place to start. The break lines don't look like they are leaking anywhere that I can see, but I haven't taken the wheels off yet to lool really close. The ABS light is on, but I assume this is because of a bad wheel speed sensor. These could be releated, but I am not sure.

    EDIT: I put more fluid in it, but this did not work. I am assuming I have a rusted out line somewhere.

    The other issue I have is the exhaust. The previous owner put on a dual exhaust and I think it sounds terrible. The drone at 1500rpm inside the cab is pretty bad. I think the exhaust has also caused the check engine light to come on too. Is there anything I can do to stop the drone or to at least cut down on the noise other than sound deadner inside the cab? If not I will be selling the exhaust and getting a factory style exhaust.

    Thanks in advance for your comments.

  2. #2

    Default

    moved to General GM Tech**

    Welcome to GMTC! If you had a brake line rusted out, it would be leaking. There can be a few things causing your brake issue. You could have a rubber brake line that is ballooning when you apply the brakes. You could have someone press the pedal down and go around the truck checking the rubber hoses running to the calipers. You might want to pull the tires off and check all the brake components. It could also be an issue inside the master cylinder. You can take the truck to advance auto parts and have them scan the ABS code. Autozone can not scan for ABS codes. While they are doing that have them tell you what is causing the Check engine light. As far as the drone goes, there is really nothing you can do about it. Except for change the exhaust out.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pikey View Post
    moved to General GM Tech**

    Welcome to GMTC! If you had a brake line rusted out, it would be leaking. There can be a few things causing your brake issue. You could have a rubber brake line that is ballooning when you apply the brakes. You could have someone press the pedal down and go around the truck checking the rubber hoses running to the calipers. You might want to pull the tires off and check all the brake components. It could also be an issue inside the master cylinder. You can take the truck to advance auto parts and have them scan the ABS code. Autozone can not scan for ABS codes. While they are doing that have them tell you what is causing the Check engine light. As far as the drone goes, there is really nothing you can do about it. Except for change the exhaust out.

    I assumed that much with the exhaust, but since i am new to the truck I thought I would ask. I didn't think about the ballooning issue. If one were ballooning, would it need changed? I have never had break issues before. My local advanced could not read the ABS code on my Grand Prix so i assume they will not be able to on the truck. My mechanis scans my stuff for free so i will just take it there. I am assuming the break issue is a rusted out break line. Is there a write-up on how to replace the break lines on the forum somehwere?

  4. #4

    Default

    Yes, you would need to replace it if it is ballooning. Advance read an abs code for me last week. Maybe they have new readers now. Rust on a brake line will not cause the issue that you are having. If the line is rusted thru and leaking, your pedal would go straight to the floor and the truck would not stop. I don't think that your issue is a medal brake line problem. It is most likely a ballooning hose or an issue at one of the wheels.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pikey View Post
    Yes, you would need to replace it if it is ballooning. Advance read an abs code for me last week. Maybe they have new readers now. Rust on a brake line will not cause the issue that you are having. If the line is rusted thru and leaking, your pedal would go straight to the floor and the truck would not stop. I don't think that your issue is a medal brake line problem. It is most likely a ballooning hose or an issue at one of the wheels.
    The pedal pretty much goes to the floor, but it does stop. If I had a rusted out line the truck would not stop at all? I hope it is a bad rubber line. This seems line an easy and cheap fix. If this is the case, I will be happy. I will keep posted upon fixing. I may check Advanced to see if they have a scanner that can read ABS. If not it's no big deal, it will still read the SES DTC. I think that light is on becasue of the dual exhaust, but i'm not sure of that either. the joys of buying a used truck from an individual. I love it so I will fix the little issues.

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sir Koscoe View Post
    The pedal pretty much goes to the floor, but it does stop. If I had a rusted out line the truck would not stop at all? I hope it is a bad rubber line. This seems line an easy and cheap fix. If this is the case, I will be happy. I will keep posted upon fixing. I may check Advanced to see if they have a scanner that can read ABS. If not it's no big deal, it will still read the SES DTC. I think that light is on becasue of the dual exhaust, but i'm not sure of that either. the joys of buying a used truck from an individual. I love it so I will fix the little issues.
    If you had a line rusted out you would see brake fluid on the ground after you refilled it. I had brake lines rust out in my 95 silverado twice. Both times I could not stop at all. The first was a front line, the second time was a rear line. My pedal traveled all the way to the floor. Do yourself a favor and take a look at the master cylinder. Specifically where it mounts to the booster. Do you see any evidence of a fluid leak at the mounting point?

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  7. #7

    Default

    Just wanted to say welcome to the club. OH-
    Tim Walters (Curky)

    Wrangler AT/S 265/70R17 - Trail-FX window vents - Husky fitted splash guards - Silver Star zXe - Leveling kit -

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Curky View Post
    Just wanted to say welcome to the club. OH-
    Thanks Buddy

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Pikey View Post
    If you had a line rusted out you would see brake fluid on the ground after you refilled it. I had brake lines rust out in my 95 silverado twice. Both times I could not stop at all. The first was a front line, the second time was a rear line. My pedal traveled all the way to the floor. Do yourself a favor and take a look at the master cylinder. Specifically where it mounts to the booster. Do you see any evidence of a fluid leak at the mounting point?

    I will take a look there. I glanced at that area, but don't recall any fluid leaking there.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Upon further inspection, there is a leak somewhere. It is not coming from the master cylinder or the booster area. I filled it with fluid Saturday and have very little left. Where can I find a diagram of how the lines are ran? The PO replaced the lines to the rear so I am thinking it is a hose and not a hard line, but can't really tell. Since there is snow everywhere the truck is covered in water so it is hard to tell where the leak is.

    I am also having the truck updated on all recalls too on Friday. I guess there are some ABS recalls and a tailgate recall that still need to be completed.

    Also, the parking brake light stays on the dash. I am not sure if the truck thinks the PB is engaged when it is not, or the brake is engaged just enough to trip the sensor. the wheels spin in forward and reverse.

    All small issues that need attending to. Still love the truck....except for the dual exhaust........

  9. #9

    Default

    The easiest way to find your leak is to fill it up with fluid and have someone else press the pedal while you look for leaks. It should be squirting out. I know that you have snow, so it will suck, but lay under the back of the truck and look along the driver side frame rail. I have seen a few with a line rusted out along there. It could also be a bad caliper seal.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pikey View Post
    The easiest way to find your leak is to fill it up with fluid and have someone else press the pedal while you look for leaks. It should be squirting out. I know that you have snow, so it will suck, but lay under the back of the truck and look along the driver side frame rail. I have seen a few with a line rusted out along there. It could also be a bad caliper seal.
    The PO had the line that runs along the driver side replaced. I don't have a jack big enough to lift the truck up. I come from a Grand Prix GT so all of my stuff is small. Loos like I will be searching CL for a bigger jack and some stands. I will lay some cardboard down and lay on it. I have some warm weather hunting gear I can throw on so thats all good.


    How hard are brake lines to replace? If it is a hard line, will I need any special tools to do the job or just some hand tools and lots of patience?

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