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02-06-2013, 02:38 PM #1
Slide pin frozen in caliper 05 yukon xl
I took a look at my pads on the front of my yukon xl. They need replaced. The previous owner stripped the head out of the t55 torqs slide pin. I tried everything I could think of. Heat, not enough to melt the piston boots. I cut the head with a hacksaw and tried for 40 minutes to beat it with a 5 pound hammer and chisel attempting to get it to break loose. I disconnected the brake line and slid the caliper out and tried to heat it and turn the pin with a pair of vise grip. I used a large pair of channel locks to close the vise grips, so I thought that they had a good grip. But, they slipped right off. Any suggestions? I am picking up a new caliper tonight, but it would be nice not to pay $55 for a new one.
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Oh, another question that I would like to get thoughts on. I was thinking that a gravity bleed would suffice when I change the caliper as I don't have anyone to pump the brakes to help me bleed them. Thoughts?
1995 Silverado 4x4
6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge
2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)
02-06-2013, 04:00 PM #2
As much as you might hate it, your best bet is to replace calipers. Remember, with brakes, what you do to one side you need to do to the other. You will probably develope a brake pull if you replace just one caliper. Also, a gravity bleed is not enough, you need to bleed the brakes. There are "one man" brake bleeding kits and not expensive at all. Hope this helps.'88 Jimmy 4X4
5.3l L59/ 4L60E Tuned by Tad
4" Lift 33" BFG. Custom Brush Guard, KCs, outside spare, Oil pan guard etc.
02-06-2013, 04:08 PM #3
Also they sell one man (I know not PC) bleeders as you will need that over gravity bleeding.David
2004 Silverado 2500 Crew Cab 4x4, AMSOIL EA air filter, Granatelli MAF sensor, Throttle body spacer, Magnaflow exhaust (true dual to 2 in 1 out muffler), 6" ProComp lift (add a leaf and 5" superlift rear block), Bilstein shocks, 35's (Cooper Disoverer ST) and 4.10 gears, Rhino Liner, EGRUSA fender Flares and widow visors, extended stainless steel brake lines, firestone airbags w/onboard air compressor, Pioneer Avic X940BT navigation, Accel backup camera.
1960 Land Rover Series II 88
2002 Nissan Altima (My Commuter)
2013 Toyota Avalon Limited (Wife's Car)
NRA Life Member
02-06-2013, 05:12 PM #4
I would replace both, but unfortunately this month that is not going to happen. If it developes a pull I will replace the other side asap. I will try to get a neighbor to help me bleed it tonight.
02-06-2013, 09:09 PM #5
- Join Date
- Mar 2007
- Grand Prairie, Texas
- Blog Entries
You could get a vacume bleeder, they dont require an extra person to pump the brakes.
I have a Mighty Mite that I use all the time for brake jobs, it's much easier than trying to find someone to pump the brakes for me.
02-06-2013, 09:44 PM #6
02-07-2013, 11:22 AM #7
02-07-2013, 11:32 AM #8
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Norwalk, Ohio
- Blog Entries
I always replace the factory hold downs on the rotors, and no one else I know does either lol!! Check out the Russell speed bleeders, I replaced all of my bleeders with these. Summit Racing has them for $9.99 a set.2004 Chevy Colorado
LS1 5.7 swap/TBSS rear axle swap
02-07-2013, 11:40 AM #9
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