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Thread: Lift Blocks?

  1. #1

    Default Lift Blocks?

    hi guys i just bought my 06 truck and want to do a leveling kit. i noticed that a lot of people just do torsion keys or crank theirs but there is a kit that includes shocks and 3" rear blocks. If you only need to lift the front 2" to level it then what are the 3" blocks for? will that be like a 2/3 lift? i want it to set level. Can someone offer insight?

  2. #2


    if it has rear blocks its the (rear) suspension lift and not a leveling kit. do you have a reference to the kit so we could see whats included to give you a better idea.
    2004 Silverado 2500 Crew Cab 4x4, AMSOIL EA air filter, Granatelli MAF sensor, Throttle body spacer, Magnaflow exhaust (true dual to 2 in 1 out muffler), 6" ProComp lift (add a leaf and 5" superlift rear block), Bilstein shocks, 35's (Cooper Disoverer ST) and 4.10 gears, Rhino Liner, EGRUSA fender Flares and widow visors, extended stainless steel brake lines, firestone airbags w/onboard air compressor, Pioneer Avic X940BT navigation, Accel backup camera.
    1960 Land Rover Series II 88
    2001 Pontiac Sunfire
    2013 Toyota Avalon Limited (Wife's Car)
    NRA Life Member

  3. #3


    Many of the NBS trucks came with a 2 inch block in the rear from the factory. Im not sure about 2wd's but i know the SS didnt have any blocks in the back.

    I know for a fact tho that both the Z71 and 4x4 models came with 2" blocks.

    So by going to a 3" block, you're only going to gain an inch in the rear.

    I think they offer this because many people who level their front end with the back by adding 2" Torsion Keys, dont do any thing to the back so you still have stock springs in the rear. The truck looks level when its empty but as soon as you put weight in the bed you have the diaper ass look lol

    Also even empty the rear bumper will look lower, really it only drops about an 1/8" or so because by raising the front the truck pivots on the rear tires and in turn the rear bumper comes down a bit. an extra inch is enough to take that low in the ass end look out of it yet not too much to make it so that you're back where you started with it looking too low in the front.

    Thats the best explanation i can figure.

  4. #4


    my post had to be approved i guess for the url.. but its a rough country lift kit and what i meant was the blocks and shocks come in a kit with the torsion keys or you can just buy the keys separate. that makes more sense if blocks come with it and you're just lifting 1" overall in the rear. i'll probably put some bags in the rear to level it out when hauling loads as well

  5. #5


    so with further research i'm understanding that when adding the blocks it will give you that "factory rake" look but i want it to sit level. So my plan is to just get the keys for the front and put in the overload bags so i can air them up with hauling loads and keep my level look. Does that sound right to you guys?

  6. #6


    Don't know about bags but if you do the keys without replacing the lift block it won't be level. The key/block combo levels it out perfect. When I first lifted my '05 I just did the keys first which made it close to level but not quite. Keys and blocks are available separately so you could easily do the keys first and see how you like it then add the blocks if you need them.

  7. #7


    dont use the blocks if you do any kind of offroading. they crack and fail.
    just get an add-a-leaf. or better yet, have a shop rebuild your leaf springs with a, extra leaf for the height you want.
    Gas was $1.83 when Obama took office.....

  8. #8


    thats kinda funny, since my truck came from the factory with blocks.....

    i have 3 inch blocks in the back of mine, in place of the 1.75 inch blocks from the factory. havnt had any issues. i dont beat on it, but they ready lift blocks look are heavy as heck, and look even more built up so to speak, then the factory blocks.

    if you are gonna do some hard off roading yes add a leaf ir what have you is better, but for light use, and hoghway, blocks work well (if you keep the size down) imo....


    2011 GMC Sierra SLE 5.3 Z71 4X4 Stealth Gray Metallic / 2004 Chevy Impala LS 3.8 Cappuccino

    Tow mirrors - Diablew Tuned - Flowmaster Regular 40 - Ready Lift 2.5' lift - BFG LT A/T K/Os - Carr Light Wing - TruckLite LED lights - Optima Red Top - 50% Front Window Tint - Line-X bedliner - Airaid MIT - Tekonsha P2 - ARS Billet Grill - Fia custom fit seat covers

  9. #9


    well its not so much the blocks, its the bolts that fail more often than not. they do all the work, ya-see

  10. #10


    If your wheeling the truck off road and hammering on it once in a while blocks will fail sooner or later. Ive seen more than one truck topple the blocks sideways or crack them in half.
    most off road clubs now days do mandatory safety inspections before a member can off road in club functions and they normally fail any truck running any blocks over 2", use of blocks at all is normally strongly discouraged.
    Me personally I hate blocks Ive seen the carnage they leave behind when spit out or toppled, even though my dd is a 2wd one of the first things I did was remove the blocks.

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